Engine Rebuild Questions

[2fastTSi]

Okay, heres the deal. My timing belt snapped about two months ago. Come to find out I bent 8 valves and snapped one off. The valve proceeded to bounce around inside the cylinder, and now I need a new piston.

Anyway, back to the question. Would I be better off to upgrade to aftermarket pistons now while I have the engine out, or just get OEM pistons for now and upgrade as the need arises? I also need to replace the head due to the damage from the freed valve, but I have a replacement for it.

 

[turbodsm18]

Due it right the first time.......Upgrade so you dont have to do it in the future.

 

[2fastTSi]

That's what I've been thinking, however funds for a rebuild aren't as high as I would like .

Any suggestions for internals? I'm not looking to do anything too crazy. I was thinking Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods.

 

[tight_tsi]

If your funding can support it do it now while it is apart - will save a lot of hassle and work in the future. You won't regret it. I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine - same thing happened to my car. I bought it that way with about 3 valves bent and 1 broken off and in the cylinder. It actually went into the piston and cracked it in half. Just got my block back a few days ago actually - it looks much better now!

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EDIT: I used Ross Racing Pistons 8.3 CR with 1G Big Rods (shot peened). I found that the Ross pistons were a little more in my budget vs. some of the other brands out there.

 

[2fastTSi]

Wow. That looks great! Did you have the block overbored or anything?

 

[fourreGsixty3]

If the valve didnt gouge too deep into the side wall he probably just had it honed, but a valve bouncing around probably needed it to be bored out a bit until the scratches were out of the cyl. wall. I would say get your 1G rods shot peened, and a set of Ross pistons. Have the head, and block decked, have them hone or bore the block until the cyl. wall is smooth, through a MLS HG on there, and tighten it all down with some ARP head studs.

Dustin

 

[tight_tsi]

Wow. That looks great! Did you have the block overbored or anything?

Yes, it went through the whole process: hot tanked, bored/honed .020 over, acl main and rod bearings, arp main, rod, and head bolts/studs, ross pistons and rings, shot peened 1G rods, balance shaft eliminator bearings installed, etc.

 

[2fastTSi]

It seems that everybody is suggesting using the 1G rods... is this a budget issue, or are the Eagle rods overkill for a non-race motor? I've found some good rod/piston combos online, but if the OEM rods will hold after shot-peening, then I'll probably spend the money on something else. I'd just hate to replace a snapped rod after finishing a motor rebuild.

 

[tight_tsi]

From what I've been told the 1G big rods are good to 400 hp. So on your non-race motor they will be just fine.

 

[2fastTSi]

Well, I don't want a full race motor. I'm looking to build a reliable street car that will see some track use on the weekends. But if the 1G rods will work, then that sounds good.

BTW, what exactly is meant by "big" rods? The rods from the 6 bolt motors?

 

[tight_tsi]

BTW, what exactly is meant by "big" rods? The rods from the 6 bolt motors?

Yes, the oem rods out of a 6 bolt block are 'big' rods.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

The 6 Bolts had thicker, stronger rods unlike the tooth pick sized 7-Bolt rods People have put down 500hp with stock internals...but this takes on hell of a tune. But a safe bet is that 400hp is the max of stock. I would say go Manley H-Beam rods instead of Eagles, but for your power levels stock 'Big Rods' will be fine on a good tune.

Dustin

 

[2fastTSi]

I really appreciate your guys' help...

I talk to the machine shop yesterday, I'm gonna try pulling the motor this weekend so I can get the block over there. They're gonna give it "the works", should cost about 250$ for them to do the block and the head.

Is there a problem with the Eagle rods, or are Manley's just a personal preference?