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engine rebuild, my parts too much?

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spydergstftw

10+ Year Contributor
144
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Jul 4, 2010
Amarillo, Texas
Forced Performance 2 cams - $520
Kiggly Beehive Valves and retainers $399.99
Manley h beam rods - $315
Manley forged pistons - about $450
Manley valves - $50
Manley piston rings - $40
Manley crankshaft - about $500
Balance shaft eliminator kit- $65 purchased
Bran penn 20w50 5 quarts- $35 purchased
Prothane motor mount inserts- $85
Machining block, resleeving - about $700
Slim fan - $35
Thermal coating FP exhaust - $150
Gaskets and bolts - about $150
ARP L19 head studs - $225
ARP main studs - $85
AEM cam gears - $150
Megan racing o2 housing - $150
Used 14b - $100
HTA68 - $850
DEI exhaust wrap - $75
1g throttlebody - $75
Is this a good list? Is all this too much for the t25 if so that's why I have listed 14b or hta 68 (hta is what I want for a the car after college) from o2 down are optional right now same for thermal coating.
I forgot rod bearings and main bearings I'm thinking all acl bearings anything else I'm missing?
 
Why are you having the block sleeved? Also why are you going with an aftermarket crank? The stock crank will handle more power than you will ever make. 700 for block machine work seems pretty high to me also. I usually pay 60 to bore and finish hone the block, 40 to hot tank, 100 to line bore, 50 to surface, and 140 to balanced the entire bottom end. If they are assembling it than that is an ok price, but for just machining the block that is outrageous. You forgot about a new oil pump, new water pump, and timing components. Add on another 200-300 for those.

If you are just wanting to run that hta68 i personally wouldn't even bother with a forged bottom end. I would just build a 6 bolt with stock rods and 2g pistons and spend more money on the fuel system and dsmlink.
 
Agreed^^ the stock crank will be just fine. Or use an evo one. And sleeving is on for aluminum motors.. That will knock off 1200 dollars. 6-bolt rods and 2g pistons is one option or pick up a set of rods from an evo 9 which are forged if you really want something better. Must be use in 7-bolt
 
This a 7 bolt build up?
The Kiggly springs are over kill for those cams, unless you plan on going to Kelfords.

What HP range you looking for? 400-500?

Check out the engnbldr valves +1mm, full set of I/E valves for about 140
Check with Delta Cams, he may have that same grind for less money
Look at the Eagle rods, thise will save you a few bucks.

Most if the time when you buy new forged pistons, rings will be supplied.


Why are you having your block sleeved? is it cracked?

What is wrong with your crank that you need to replace it?

If a 7 bolt block, with the ARP mains, the block will need to have the main bore checked, and a good chance line honed/bored (add appox $100)

What Head gasket? composite or MLS? If MLS, both the block and head will need to be milled.
The full rotating assembly will need to be balanced (add $200)

Do not forget about fuel upgrades, fuel pump and rail and injectors.
Also add a wideband O2
From your mod list I see you have DSM Link so your good there
 
I'm burning oil and I have rod knock. So I figured since after college this will be my track car I might as well get it done and get it done right the first time. No sleeving ok and I have link v3 already, and aem uego. Price range for evo crank? And I was going with aftermarket crank since I didn't want any chance of failure in the block for many years to come no matter what I throw on her.
Will I need fuel upgrades if I stick to the t25 until later on when I get the hta? Composite head gasket, shooting for 450 once I go with the hta but for now if I can and if its not completely senseless then I'm gonna try and stick with the t25. Kiggleys because when I do make this a track only car I can have room to work with, without ripping into the block. What are you guys estimating on machining? I was looking at eagle/weisco setup but figured manley would get a thumbs up for stronger and can hold more.
 
$700 for block work is high

Prices around here would be
Clean block...................$40
Bore/hone.....................$60
Deck.............................$60
Line hone mains............$100


I understand that you want this to be your track car, but again, what is your HP goal?
 
Until I'm out of college I don't have a hp goal simply because its my only car and I will be staying with stock turbo. After college I'm looking to get around 450ish. And really after that 600.
I'm kinda going in stages which will cost more eventually but I thought if I built the engine now, since I'm going to anyway because of rod knock, that it would be the the same until I'm done
 
I paid under $750 total, brand new for kiggly springs and comp 101200's (pretty much the same thing as fp2's). I caught a sale a few months ago, if you shop around you should be able to find significantly below msrp. The downside is not all shops will allow customers to just bring in parts, even in they are NIB.
 
Ii already talked to the shop owner and he said that I could bring in the parts or he will get me the parts, he said the price difference is negligable so I'm starting to collect the parts now and hopefully I get them all soon.

And I forgot, topline revised lifters also
 
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