thekyguy11
15+ Year Contributor
- 115
- 3
- Oct 4, 2004
-
H Town,
Wisconsin
This may or may not be a newbie question, but I don't want to risk deletion or being banned in cylinder head and short block forum.
I'm assembling a shortblock. All of the shortblocks I have assembled in the past, I had the machine shop do the bearing sizing. I decided to do it myself this time.
Im using a brand new OEM 7bolt crankshaft. All OEM bearings. Eagle rods. I got the crank balanced and the journals polished. I figured new crank should call for standard bearings. So I bought all standard OEM bearings (which were expensive!!!). When I measured the main bearing clearences, they were all at about .0015-.0017ish. This was after torquing the main studs (arp) to factory spec. When I checked the rods, they were close to .0025 which is out of spec.
Is it common to have to use undersize bearings on a brand new crank? I just ordered bearing #2 assuming they are .001 tighter because the people at the dealer dont know, all they can tell me is that there is a #1, 2, and 3.
Thanks.
I'm assembling a shortblock. All of the shortblocks I have assembled in the past, I had the machine shop do the bearing sizing. I decided to do it myself this time.
Im using a brand new OEM 7bolt crankshaft. All OEM bearings. Eagle rods. I got the crank balanced and the journals polished. I figured new crank should call for standard bearings. So I bought all standard OEM bearings (which were expensive!!!). When I measured the main bearing clearences, they were all at about .0015-.0017ish. This was after torquing the main studs (arp) to factory spec. When I checked the rods, they were close to .0025 which is out of spec.
Is it common to have to use undersize bearings on a brand new crank? I just ordered bearing #2 assuming they are .001 tighter because the people at the dealer dont know, all they can tell me is that there is a #1, 2, and 3.
Thanks.