Engine build up checklist

[Rex2342]

Over the next few months I'm going to be assembling my engine and want to make sure I'm not missing anything. I'm starting off with a NT block that jumped time and don't want to cut any corners but would like to save money were I can. More than likely I'll be getting most of the stuff from Slowboy so this list is going by there prices.


Gasket set: Mitsu or Topline? Theres an $80 difference in price but is it really worth it to use OEM?
Cometic HG. Looking to run 25-30 psi of boost.
Front cover: Again Topline or Mitsu? With or without gears? $60 difference in price.
Balance shaft eliminator kit
Mitsu timing belt kit: Not cutting any corners here
I need an oil filter housing from a 90 if anybody has one PM me PLEASE!!!
SBR oil pan: I need one anyway since I can't use the NT one.
Water pump: Mitsu, Topline, or Autozone?
ARP Head studs, and main studs. Do I need the main studs or is the stock hardware sufficient? Should I replace the ones I have if I use the stock ones?
Crank: Can I reuse the NT crank? It's in fine condition but is it the same as a turbo one?
Manley or Crower I beams. Haven't decided yet but I know I want I beams.
Ross pistons. I want 8.8-1, or 9-1 but don't see 8.8-1 listed on Slowboys site. I'll have to call.


I think that about covers the bottom end. Let me know if I missed anything.

For the head:
Ferrea Bronze guides
Ferrea or Mitsu seals: Is there any difference?
Manley titanium stem locks
Revised lifters
SI dual springs with Manley titanium retainers
Ferrea SS valves: I'm not sure If I want 1mm over or standard. I've read that 1mm over are useless unless the machine shop knows the 4g63 very well and can port the head accordingly. Any input would be help full here.
I haven't picked out any cams yet. Once I decide on a turbo I'll decide one what cams to get.

I think thats it let me know what you guys think.

 

[ROOKIE1]

Two items that should not be questioned . Gasket set - OEM Mitsu ; Front cover w/gears OEM Mitsu .

 

[Rex2342]

I can see the front cover but where does the extra money for the gaskets come into play? A gasket is a gasket right? Whether it be Mitsu, Fel Pro, or Topline aren't they all basically the same? If I'm wrong here someone please explain. Has anybody ever bought one of these gasket sets? Does the Mitsu one come with a HG?

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

If you use ARP mains then be sure to send the ARP kit with the block to the machine shop since they have to torque and hone the caps. I am unsure about the crank, do you not have a turbo crank to use? Why I beams? How much power you looking to make? A place to save cash is to use Eagle H beams. 1mm over valves is a great idea, the more flow the better. Why dual springs? Unless you are having your engine fully balanced and assembled accordingly, then you will have no use for those springs. I suggest singles. Cams can wait till later as nothing has to be done machine-shop-wise to put them in.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

As far as the gasket sets go, topline and mitsu are the same to go with which ever is cheaper. Headgasket is good, but are you going to o-ring that block ? If not perhaps the isc titan HG that has the steel wiring for the o-ring passages built into it, but with a price tag of 160$ on ffwdconnection.com . Not sure about the cover for topline or mitsu, so I wont say anything on it. Water pump I would say mitsu or topline, you personal preference between the two is whats needed, topline seems to make oem parts for us but just a little better ARP the heads. mains, and rods. Very strong and all will take the abuse you give them. Not sure on weather the nt crank is diff from the turbo model, Ill look into it if I have the time tonight. good choice to go with the I-Beams, its your personal preference on which brand, Im using Crower I-beams in my stroker build up, so you know where my vote is. I would go with the 8.8:1 CR you wont see much of a difference between them but you will be able to boost more with the 8.8s. SBR has the wiseco's for 8.8:1 in the stroker kit area, not sure if its only for that or not, but they have it so I figure you could call them and ask, or just ask them to get a set of Ross 8.8s if you really want Ross, Ill be switching over to the Ross 7.5s after my stroker is in an n2o is being used. The 9:1 CR Ross pistons will have a quicker feel off boost but you wont be able to notice that between 8.8s to 9.1s. The 1mm discusion could go either way, Evil_eagle has had them, and not had them and said there wasnt any change, long as your cams match up well with them and the port is good then you will net gains, Im not saying a lot of gain but more power is more power no matter how little. The ferrea bronze guides are intake only, and the cooper alloy by ferrea are for exhaust side. Ferrea seals, not sure if there is any diff. but Im sure ferrea would have improved on it if it needed it. As far as cams go, check out the FP1s and 2s, or the Comp Cams 101200s, both are great street/ stripe grinds.
Hope I awsered all your questions

Why I beams? How much power you looking to make? A place to save cash is to use Eagle H beams.

Oh yeah and as to the guy above me, the I-beams are the only way to go, 800hp proven, so they allow for future power gains with confidence, not saying the eagles are bad, but if he can get I-beams then get I-beams, he also said he didnt want to cut corners, and that would be a decent corner cut.
Oh yeah I just checked out SBR and they have Ross 8.5CR pistons, I would go with those.

Dustin

 

[jbillakdsm]

Wait, let me get this straight. You are using a NT block and building a NT motor or a turbo motor? If I remember, isn't there something to do with the oil runners being different between the NT and turbo blocks?

 

[Rex2342]

Wait, let me get this straight. You are using a NT block and building a NT motor or a turbo motor? If I remember, isn't there something to do with the oil runners being different between the NT and turbo blocks?

That is correct. Turbo blocks have oil squirters that cool the piston skirts, N/T motors do not have these. I've talked to both Buscher and Slowboy about this and they both say they cap them on there motors because with forged pistons you don't need them and the added oil pressure is better used elsewhere.

 

[nitrouskris]

That is correct. Turbo blocks have oil squirters that cool the piston skirts, N/T motors do not have these. I've talked to both Buscher and Slowboy about this and they both say they cap them on there motors because with forged pistons you don't need them and the added oil pressure is better used elsewhere.

you can use a n/t block and crank without a problem. we have a n/t crank and block in a rail car without a problem.

 

[Rex2342]

you can use a n/t block and crank without a problem. we have a n/t crank and block in a rail car without a problem.

So the cranks are the same? Thats good to hear because I have a perfect one sitting here from the N/T motor and didn't want to buy another one if I didn't have to.