Building up a 6bolt soon. Undercut bearings? Verify my checklist...

[my_gst95]

I want to be sure I order everything I need before sending in the shortblock to be machined and I wasn't sure if I should get undercut rod bearings if I'm using my stock crank with H-beams? Here's my Order Cart:

ARP 6-bolt Rod Bolts
ARP 6-bolt Main Studs
ARP 6-Bolt Head Studs
Clevite Rod Bearings
Engine Pro Main Bearings
Top Line Front Cover & Oil pump
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
6 Bolt Water Pump
Timing Tensioner
Front Case "Castle" Plug
Ross Racing Pistons 6 Bolt 4G63 8.5:1 (Bore: .20 Over)
Eagle H-Beam Rods


Did I forget anything? After the short block gets machined, I want to put it together myself so I need to be sure I have all the gaskets neccisary. It looks like the parts above comes with most of the rings and seals I need, but if I forgot anything please let me know. I figure I can order from NAPA the Main Seal and timing belt. Can I get a new freeze plug from NAPA? I don't see it anywhere on SBR's site.

When I send it to the machine shop I'm going to request:

Hot tank
Hone & Bore .20 over
Deck
Crank balance
Balance shaft block-off bearings
Blueprint

Ross pistons and Eagle H-beams don't need to be press fitted do they? Anything else I need or tips once I get all the parts back? Thanks.

my_gst95

 

[imptuner]

Assembly may not be hard but the rings have to be filed so they will basically have it done after they size them.

Napa can get you the freeze plug.

if i were you i would just buy a complete gasket kit. thaat way since your rebuilding the motor anyway you have all seals and gaskets.


all wrist pins are pressed i believe. take them to any local machine shop they can do it for probably no more than 6 bucks a press. it should be cheeper than getting it sent to them and having them do it. Or they may just burry it in the cost its actually very easy to do with a press.

 

[timloomis]

some forged pistons use floating pins with spiro locks.they just slide in and a little clip holds em in.

 

[99gst_racer]

The Eagle rods come with the ARP hardware. Don't buy the ARP rod bolt kit seperately. (just trying to save you a buck)

 

[Suparata]

Assembly may not be hard but the rings have to be filed so they will basically have it done after they size them. .

That is correct.

Napa can get you the freeze plug. .

Use brass plugs and it will last longer. And they look better too.

if i were you i would just buy a complete gasket kit. thaat way since your rebuilding the motor anyway you have all seals and gaskets. .

Correct again.

all wrist pins are pressed i believe. .

Incorrect. Aftermarket pistons are set up as Full Floaters like timloomis said. Some use clips, others use spiro-locks. While you could use them in a press-fit setup like the factory did, it is not a good idea especially with Ross.

take them to any local machine shop they can do it for probably no more than 6 bucks a press. it should be cheeper than getting it sent to them and having them do it. Or they may just burry it in the cost its actually very easy to do with a press.

It is also very easy to ruin them if they are pressed in. That’s why there are special “ovens” made for assembling the press-fit type pistons.
Therefore have the machine shop fit the small end of the rod for a correct pin clearance and let them do the assembly since it is not the easiest thing to do with spiro-locks, plus if the pins need to be machined too, you will not be able to make that judgment let alone do it.

 

[Suparata]

Also somebody needs to change the title of the thread! Even though it was good enough to catch my attention, bearings are OVERSIZED and cranks are cut under.
The shop will tell you what bearings you need after they inspect the crank you have.
Good luck with the build.

 

[my_gst95]

Thank you for the replies. I guess I missused the word "Undercut", It's just that I saw on SBR they sell them as .10, .20, and .30 Under. I decided to build up a 2.4L instead. I'd much rather order all the parts I need before going to the machine shop, is there anyway to just order maybe standard-sized or .10 under bearings and not have to worry about it? The 2.4L crank looks to be in good condition with no scarring. Thanks for the headsup on the arp & rods, I just noticed that in the description. So if this list looks ok, I'm going to go ahead and order them unless you guys REALLY think they need to inspect it first before ordering:

Clevite standard or .10 under main and rod bearings
Eagle H-beam rods
Wiseco 2.4L .020over pistons
Arp mains

All the other gaskets, studs, and whatnot will be ordered after I get the block back from the machine shop. After I get the pistons on the rods and the block back, do I put the pistons in dry? I guess I can check the Chiltons if it's even listed in there.

Manny

 

[my_gst95]

Pics of the new block. Im EXCITED to work on the car again! I'll start a new thread on how my progress goes on this 2.4L. Wish me luck, with a DSM, gawd knows I'll need it!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

my_gst95

 

[Suparata]

You really need to have the block inspected before ordering parts. You don’t know if the block will clean at .020”, how much material will be removed from the deck and mains when align honed thus what the deck height will be which will dictate what compression height pistons and gasket thickness will be used. Also the crank might need other bearings than standard size and, even if they will be standard size, you might need other than Clevite to obtain the desired clearance and so on.
Bottom line you start with the block and then order the correct parts. That’s if you want to do this right. Also if you go with Eagle rods make sure they are sized correctly.

 

[my_gst95]

I see this has been discussed on this section many times before . Thanks for the advice. I'll definetly take it to the machine shop first before ordering bearings I guess. I called a machine shop that sounded pretty compitent as far as building the 4g63/4g64 (but what do I know). Do I have to take any recommended clearance numbers to them or would they already know what the limits are? He said that I wouldn't but like you said, I don't want to be doing this over again.

Hot Tank & Mag
Align Hone
Torque-plate Deck
Overbore & hone specifically for the pistons
Have the rods checked & sized if needed
Polish Crank
Balance Crank
Freeze Plugs
Assembly

The list is getting longer . I'll ad a tech article when I'm done.

my_gst95