Engine bogging out after new intercooler

[Suckitup]

Hey everyone, First off let me say that im new to the forums.. I have come here alot to get questions ansered by looking up stuff but now its time to ask for the first time..

I have a 98 Eclipse GST wtih a t28 turbo, 650cc injectors upgraded fuel pump, hks blow off valve blah blah blah..

I was pushing 15psi in the car at full boost wtih no boost controller just reg set up with a small intercooler... Well lastnight I just installed a bigger intercooler and went from 2" pipe to 2.5' pipe.. Got it all hooked up.. modified the bumper to fit the new intercooler everything looked great..

Heres the prob. I went to test it out and just went for a drive just now and the boost has dropped to 10psi. The weird thing the motor boggs down at 10psi and sounds like its trying to back fire and stall in a way... Its crazy ### it was running great at 15psi with the smaller intercooler and now at 10psi you can hear it has more to go but it just boggs...

Any suggestions??

 

[nyTalonTsi]

Did you check for boost leaks? Usually when you take the ic piping apart it's always best to check for leaks.

 

[agentorange313]

boost leak test first. that is probably why you are only making 10 psi.

then try this: Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

sorry thats a link to just VFAQ, check out the Biss idle adjustment page.

 

[talonDSMerr]

You have a boost leak somewhere. Check your couplers and see if there are any that may not be sealing all the way or even pressure test the new intercooler you put on to see if it has any pinhole leaks. Use an air compressor to pressurize your intake system and listen for hissing air that is leaking. Locate it and fix it and your car will stop bogging

 

[Suckitup]

You know, I was just thinking about that as I was typing that up.. I need to go out and buy a few supplies to make a tester.. I know its cheaper to buy one made but dont have the time to wait as this is my daily driver as well..

Thanx guys.. you all rock.. ill let you know what i find out if your interested.. and ill upload a few pics prob..

Let me ask this... when doing the leak test should I plug pipe leading to the intake manifold.. or leave it connected for the test.. Reason i ask is yes I had major leaks with the new intoercooler clamps.. reverted back to the old screw type nad not using the t-bar... anywho.. have hissing coming from the throttle body at the throttle cable assembly....

Is this suppose to happen or am i just that much of a newb to the whole leak test thing...

 

[UnderPrssureDSM]

You know, I was just thinking about that as I was typing that up.. I need to go out and buy a few supplies to make a tester.. I know its cheaper to buy one made but dont have the time to wait as this is my daily driver as well..

Thanx guys.. you all rock.. ill let you know what i find out if your interested.. and ill upload a few pics prob..

Let me ask this... when doing the leak test should I plug pipe leading to the intake manifold.. or leave it connected for the test.. Reason i ask is yes I had major leaks with the new intoercooler clamps.. reverted back to the old screw type nad not using the t-bar... anywho.. have hissing coming from the throttle body at the throttle cable assembly....

Is this suppose to happen or am i just that much of a newb to the whole leak test thing...

Excellent advice from agentorange. Go here first and follow the instructions. Only after you've located and corrected all of your hoses, clamps, and connections should you attempt to try tackling the throttle body.

 

[Suckitup]

It was the clamps as stated.. reverted back to the old school clamps.. and now off to tackle throttle body leak... but here are pics as promised..

The throttle body should not leak at all when doing the test corret?? Just to clerify??

!'st is the new with old at bottom ect...

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[talonDSMerr]

Throttle body should not leak during the test, there are some seals inside that may need replacing or just the inner/outer throttle body gaskets.

 

[Suckitup]

Alittle update... well pulled off the throttle body lastnight to clean it and replace seals.. GUESS WHAT.. its the 62mm BBK TB SOOO you all know what that means... leaks and nothing i can do about it.. so im gonna need to get a 1g and get it bored or a 2g and get it bored out..

 

[pantherballhp]

wasn't it running fine with the 15 psi on the bbk tb?

 

[Absit]

Given just the title of this thread several people in the Facebook DSM group identified the problem:
Crankwalk.

 

[Suckitup]

wasn't it running fine with the 15 psi on the bbk tb?

Yes it was and still is... jsut wnen i went to add the intercooler and did the leak test on everything becauser of the bogging... and tahts waht it was jsut leaks from al lthe couplers.... still found it leaking in the tb as well would like to stop taht leak as well.. your right its not that big of a deal as it still hold and runs well at 15 even 20 im sure jsut hate leaks...

*Facebook DSM Group??*

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

Given just the title of this thread several people in the Facebook DSM group identified the problem:
Crankwalk.

LMFAO are you serious

 

[ziggys95tsi]

^^ hahaha

 

[TSiAWD666]

If your t-bolts were leaking, and they are sized properly for the couplers, I might suggest a trick I figured out when using t-bolts. Use soapy water on them as you're clamping them down. I can't say all brands/types of t-bolt clamps do this, but mine from NAPA tend to grip unevenly on the couplers and pinch, and the pinching results in air leaks. If I lubricate them with soapy water as i'm clamping them down they clamp evenly resulting in no leaks.

I prefer t-bolts because the worm clamps tend to cut into my couplers.

 

[Suckitup]

If your t-bolts were leaking, and they are sized properly for the couplers, I might suggest a trick I figured out when using t-bolts. Use soapy water on them as you're clamping them down. I can't say all brands/types of t-bolt clamps do this, but mine from NAPA tend to grip unevenly on the couplers and pinch, and the pinching results in air leaks. If I lubricate them with soapy water as i'm clamping them down they clamp evenly resulting in no leaks.

I prefer t-bolts because the worm clamps tend to cut into my couplers.

thanx for the suggestion man.. i might try that next time... your right about the way they can cut into the couplers.. Ill keep that soap thing in mind

 

[TSiAWD666]

I just use the same spray bottle I have with soapy water for boost leak tests as I do for the clamps. Spray to find leaks, and spray to fix 'em

 

[gen2allday]

crankwalk wouldnt cause that tho...good effort trying to help him out most people wouldnt give a crap...it would be a boost leaking causing to bog down due to loss of compression escaping