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Energy suspension front control arm lower shock mount fix

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7c0m9

Probationary Member
7
0
Mar 24, 2011
Lextown, Kentucky
I have a 95 talon tsi awd lowered on tanabe gf210 and kyb agx. The rubber bushings that connects the straight control on the front to the bottom of the shock is extremely weak. I lowered my car and my suspension was so stiff it crushed the brand new rubber bushings. Energy suspension offers a kit for my car but leaves out the bushing connecting the control arm to the shock. Huge problem for me and probably for others. I bought several different bushings from them. I found the 9.9483 to fit very tight and be the best for me. 9.9482 was close but had a little play. I left the outer shell that is pressed in with the original bushing in. Seemed to be the best choice for me. I jus burned out the rubber and left the shell. I cleaned it out very well. The 9.9483 bushings i cut the outer lip off so it would fit betwen the lower legs of the shock mount. i also cut the sleeve that fits inside the urethane bushings to the same length as the one that came out of the original rubber ones. It is a very tight fit i had to shape the ends jus a little to get it started then jus beat it in. Should bolt right up if youve cut everything right. This simple mod has made my ride much better. If your cars not lowered and doesnt have a stiff suspension theres not much point. Otherwise good luck hope this info helps.
 
It's been explained to me by a couple of the heavy hitter suspension gurus here on tuners that energy suspension bushings leaves that bushing out for a reason. That being; that is not a simple pivot. It's a multi axis joint. Unfortunately it either needs to be stock rubber or sperical bearing like greengoblin did. It'll cause binding in the suspension and possibly twist/tear the shock body apart or in short order destroy the polyurethane bushing.
 
It's been explained to me by a couple of the heavy hitter suspension gurus here on tuners that energy suspension bushings leaves that bushing out for a reason. That being; that is not a simple pivot. It's a multi axis joint. Unfortunately it either needs to be stock rubber or sperical bearing like greengoblin did. It'll cause binding in the suspension and possibly twist/tear the shock body apart or in short order destroy the polyurethane bushing.

Bingo. Same goes for the top end of the shock, I might add.
 
Actually, I never got that far. I had pillowballs, but never touched my lower shock mount.

It's funny that this question came up and my name got dragged in or dropped (depending on how you look at it). It was the absence of a lower shock bushing in the ES kits that started me on the road (as it were) to trying to understand the totally funky front suspension of the 2G. I still don't know whether to call it brilliant or moronic. But those two offset balljoints (on the lateral and compression arms) make it just about impossible to predict what the knuckle will do without making a 3D model of the entire package. The only thing that one can be sure of without a model is that nothing stays put when you steer or hit a bump. It all moves in weird ways and that's why you can't stiffen the bushings at either end of the shock.

One other point to make here for completeness. As much as I like the GC sleeves that you can get for Konis, do not under any circumstances use those little black upper shock bushings that they include with their upper plate. Those things are small and rock-hard and will bend your shock shaft faster than you can say "I should have listened to Dennis for once." I lost a Koni to those before switching to RRE pillowballs.
 
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