Electrical/Start problem

[jb2zero0six5]

Hey guys, another no start thread, but this one's a little more odd. 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD, modifications should be up to date.

Here's the story:

This last saturday night my slave cylinder went out, so I drove it home and parked it. While it was parked I decided to take out my coil-pack to double check it for the three or four prong connector. I put everything back the way it was, found I just needed the noise filter to get my tachometer to work. Today I recieved my new master and slave cylinder in the mail from rockauto, fought with that and got the new slave cylinder in. Bled the clutch system and topped off my coolant. I started it just fine, the battery didn't die over the week, let it high idle for about two minutes and shut it down. I picked some of my tools and rechecked everything under the hood, and closed it. I went to start it again and it clicked like a dead battery, so I jumped it with my DD and it started right back up. Odd I thought, but still hopped in it to test my clutch system on a short 2 two mile cruise. I noticed everytime I used the brakes (brake lights) my stereo would clip, so I brought it back home. With it idling I flipped on the headlights and it nearly killed my car. The alternator obviously recovered after the voltage drop, and then, knowing it's resting place for a while (again), I shut the car off.

I automatically think to check my battery terminals, which are not corrided and tight. Ground to the chassis and starter area are clean and tight. I unhooked the NSS on the clutch, and took the ECU loose. I was going to inspect the caps/inside but it got dark. The dash lights glow very faintly with the key in "ON" position, the auto-belts either don't move or barely move with the key in any position. A buzzing/humming niose from the ecu area followed by a click and the door buzzer and key light going back on.

Here is a short video:
YouTube - ‪Dsm help!‬‏

 

[Takophiliac]

Did you check the standing battery voltage? (car off)
Might just be a dead/bad battery.

 

[jb2zero0six5]

Tested the original battery, it was ok. Tried it again, no luck. I got the battery from my cavalier, which jumped it prior, and still no luck.

 

[bmxmk18]

I woulkd check your alternator wiring, and the fuse for the alt. they are know to short out. it happens to my buddy he has to replace the fuse every now and then until he re-wires the alternator, his will also run from a jump even with the blown fuse, hope this helps

 

[jb2zero0six5]

Yeah, I'll definitely have to get my test light out and see tomorrow. I'm just trying to gain some ideas from people on here, and then hit it hard tomorrow. Electrical gremlin's are my favorite part about working on cars!

 

[95talongirl]

Also check the main power wire to the starter. That can get all nice a corroded. The one on my 2g didn't look bad at first glance, but discovered that the corrosion went about 6-7" into the cable.

 

[97gst_spyder]

You should have three main fuses on the battery positive. I'ed check all the fuses before getting to deep into it.

 

[DanielR921G]

Use your volt meter, or borrow one, and check the alternator output on the battery while running. It should be no less than 13.7volts. 14.2 is perfect! That sounds like the problem to me.

 

[LandoAWD]

MPI relay...?

 

[jb2zero0six5]

Hairline fractured fuse, cleaded terminals real good.