thor
Probationary Member
- 29
- 0
- Feb 4, 2006
-
buffalo,
New York
ok i've searched this but haven't seen anything that would work, so i'll word the question differently..
I had to bypass my EGR valve because of idle problems. I blocked off the port and removed the valve and sensor attached to it. however now i'm getting a CEL light after about 15 mins of driving. (I was getting it even when the EGR was hooked up)
the car is a bone stock 94 talon fwd manual trans n/t and this is a rebuilt engine. I don't believe it's a California car because it doesn't have the vac lines that are shown in the shop manual.
I pulled the sensor for the EGR with the valve, so the temp sensor isn't there.
Is it possible to just plug that sensor back in and leave it loose in the back and will this trick the computer? Or can I put a resistor of x value in place of it? The solenoid is still there. like I said, even when the EGR was on it threw a light after 15 mins. So plugging the sensor back in seems like it won't matter. The solenoid is good and tests ok.
The other reason I pulled the EGR (and probably why the CEL light keeps going on) was because the valve in the waterneck that's supposed to open/close on certain temps is bad and open all the time. So the egr isn't effective anyway. I don't know what causes the CEL light to trip though. It seems that a simple resistor should fix it somewhere to trick the computer.
I know the pros and cons after reading volumes of opinions/facts. I just don't want the light on all the time in case an actual problem does occur where I need to pull codes. any advice to trick the computer would be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
I had to bypass my EGR valve because of idle problems. I blocked off the port and removed the valve and sensor attached to it. however now i'm getting a CEL light after about 15 mins of driving. (I was getting it even when the EGR was hooked up)
the car is a bone stock 94 talon fwd manual trans n/t and this is a rebuilt engine. I don't believe it's a California car because it doesn't have the vac lines that are shown in the shop manual.
I pulled the sensor for the EGR with the valve, so the temp sensor isn't there.
Is it possible to just plug that sensor back in and leave it loose in the back and will this trick the computer? Or can I put a resistor of x value in place of it? The solenoid is still there. like I said, even when the EGR was on it threw a light after 15 mins. So plugging the sensor back in seems like it won't matter. The solenoid is good and tests ok.
The other reason I pulled the EGR (and probably why the CEL light keeps going on) was because the valve in the waterneck that's supposed to open/close on certain temps is bad and open all the time. So the egr isn't effective anyway. I don't know what causes the CEL light to trip though. It seems that a simple resistor should fix it somewhere to trick the computer.
I know the pros and cons after reading volumes of opinions/facts. I just don't want the light on all the time in case an actual problem does occur where I need to pull codes. any advice to trick the computer would be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
