EGR block off plate boost leak

[Hiitman]

I'm getting a kindof nasty boost leak from my egr block off plate. I took it off, made sure the surface was clean, and reinstalled it with even torque on both bolts. Still leaks though. Any suggestions.

 

[romeen]

Are you using a gasket? Try a thin layer of RTV silicone to get a better seal.

 

[black92_tsi_awd]

Use the high temp red silicone with no metal gasket.

 

[Hiitman]

I'll give that a try and let you guys know. Should I use it as a gasket or just put around the outside?

 

[turbosax2]

I'll give that a try and let you guys know. Should I use it as a gasket or just put around the outside?

Use it as a gasket.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...249879-egr-block-off-plate-install-guide.html

 

[romeen]

As previously mentioned, use some high temp silicone (Ultra Copper works great). And yes, you need to remove the plate, apply a thin layer around the perimeter and all openings before reinstalling. While you have the plate off you may want to make sure that the plate is not bent/warped.

 

[turboglenn]

I had troubles with that as well. I finally pulled the manifold one day ( i was doing other stuff though so it wasn't that much more to just pull it too ) Then i took it to a local welding shop ( i don't have aluminum welding equipment for my MIG ) and i just had them fill both holes with a big glob of weld.. I ground it smooth and haven't worried about it since. Something to consider. They welded it up real fast for 5 bucks. EGR block offs don't get much better or cheaper than that.

 

[Defiant]

California's not a land in which you want to consider welding-up the EGR passages.

I could post my continual diatribe about how removing EGR does nothing for performance, and how EGR is good for the engine, but the information bounces off some intellects like bullets from Superman's chest.

 

[romeen]

California's not a land in which you want to consider welding-up the EGR passages.

I could post my continual diatribe about how removing EGR does nothing for performance, and how EGR is good for the engine, but the information bounces off some intellects like bullets from Superman's chest.

Actually, if you don't mind briefly describing how it is good for the engine I sincerely am interested. I still have my EGR hooked up per the stock setup and have no plans on altering it. Although I suspect it may be leaking into exhaust port #4 under boost. I need to boost leak test with exhaust manifold off to verify.

Thanks for any insight.

 

[turboglenn]

I have nothing agaisn't the EGR, I just didn't want to use one of my digital or PWM outs to control it. So i had it welded shut since the plate system leaked on me.

 

[Defiant]

EGR operates under low- or no-load condition, and recirculates a small amount cooler exhaust gas into the intake. Doing this cools the combustion temperatures, which means everything in there- cylinder bore, piston, rings and exhaust valves will also be cooler. When you're under load, which is when you're producing power, it's closed off. And I guess this season it's popular to say it reduces emissions, but some of us old cretins don't really give a crap about that.
It has a bad reputation as a performance and engine killer from the early days of the STP EGR retrofit which forced everyone in California in the early seventies to either find a crooked smog mechanic, or put the damned thing on there and watch the car lose a valve. Especially if it was a Volkswagen.
In the days of leaded gasoline, it was routine to open up an EGR system and find the whole thing coked-up solid with ash and crap; unleaded gas, fuel injection and closed-loop feedback engine fuel management have gone far to eliminate this condition as well, although it can still happen.
When it's tested at a smog shop, the mechanic is supposed to hook up a vacuum source to the valve and open it at idle. If the engine tries to gag and die, the EGR is deemed to be functional.

 

[romeen]

Thanks.

 

[Savage Talon]

How is it good for the engine when the inside of your intake mani is coverd in a thick black tar like substance. Because that is what mine looks like.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

The intake mani covered in soot is a downfall to it. Yes your engine digests it, but the most important factor is that the CO2 that you're recycling prohibits hot cylinders when you're not under load which is a GOOD thing.

 

[Defiant]

You shouldn't have any tar in your exhaust, unless your valve stem seals are blown. Are you running a catch can on the valve cover breather? Check your IC for buildup, as well.
The usual EGR residue is various salts, byproducts of burned fuel. They can form a semblance of concrete, like the white caking you see on exhaust valves.

 

[Savage Talon]

I don't have any tar in my exhaust, it's in the intake manifold and it is coming from the egr area. So the first two runners are all gooked up. I guess it could be from the PCV also but I don't know. It's all from the preveous motor. The setup is factory stock, I do live in CA you know.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

If there is no tar in the exhaust, then the EGR valve isn't the cause of it in your intake manifold. I noticed a large difference between the tempature of my intake manifold and another 1g DSM manifold. With litte difference between our cars the only explaination I had was the EGR valve, which he did block off.

Back on topic, some High-temp RTV will do nicely to seal the gap. Read the instructions on the tube carefully and follow them percisely.