Effects of lightweight flywheel? [merged] light weight lightened aluminum ACT fidanza

[Fryguy]

All light weight flywheel newbie threads are merged here.

I'm looking for my car to be very fast at lower speeds; my main goal is very fast acceleration. Will a lightweight flywheel be beneficial to this? Or should I just save up all my money and drop a turbo on my 84k engine

 

[FuelInjected]

oh by the way, forgot to ask. Do I need to get some special bolts or anyting else with my flywheel?
Or stock is fine?

 

[housegsx]

Stock bolts work fine with the ACT. It's the same thickness. Some people like to replace them each time they are removed with new ones.

Edit: Don't forget to use locktite when reinstalling the flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

 

[FuelInjected]

i wont be doing the work. I have a local shop. Magnus Motorsports, that will do all the work. What is locktite ?I am assuming they will know to use it though.

 

[housegsx]

Magnus should certainly know what they are doing. Locktite is just a liquid you put on the bolts to keep them from working loose.

 

[kmoore]

I have a Fidanza flywheel in my car and honestly never noticed a difference.

+1. Couldn't tell a difference what so ever. I guess it does rev up a little quicker though. Hardly noticeable

 

[daren_p]

It seems most recommend to change the flywheel bolts when they do the clutch. Just get some new flywheel bolts from the dealer. I like to change mine as well as I don't like having to pull the tranny anymore then I have to. As for some more step info look here:

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

The ACT (or XACT) streetlight should be stepped correctly from the factory but I have heard a couple say theirs wasn't correct, so its always good to get it checked first. Once again better to make sure its right the first time. Think the above link will give you the info your after but basically the step is exactly what it sounds like, a step. In that the clutch isn't mounted directly to the flywheel friction surface level, it actually sits up on a step. If the distance from the flywheel friction surface to the step (where the clutch pressure plate is mounted) isn't correct you can have engaugement issues or can burn the clutch disk out.

While your in there its always a good idea to replace the fork & pivot ball with OEM parts & do the rear main crank seal as well. Another cheep & easy upgrade (usually around $25) is to get a stainless steel clutch line to replace the factory rubber line to the slave & it also gets rid of the stupied factory resevoir thingy, giving you a quicker/more positive clutch release.

 

[FuelInjected]

daren, Thanks. Do you guys know the part number or where I can get the "rear main crank seal" ? Can't seem to find it.

Also I will be getting these:
new oem tob, new clutch kit, new oem fulcrum ball (pivot ball), new oem tob clip, new oem clutch fork, new oem master, new oem slave, new SS clutch line, new fluid, symborski kit, underhood bushings, short shifter.
Dunno if i am missing anything else, besides the flywheel bolts. and the rear main crank seal?

 

[turbosax2]

Rear main seal - MD359158
TOB - MD749998
Pivot ball - MD719602
TOB clip - MD706185
Clutch fork - MD770506
Master - MB910562
Slave - MD749823
Flywheel bolts (x7) - MD302074

OEM Mitsubishi Parts

 

[FuelInjected]

Awesome!. thats what i needed. I am getting most of the OEM stuff from Jack though, but thats really good info, i'll keep that with me.

 

[housegsx]

Pressure plate bolts if you want everything.
That list you have is good. I did all of that when I had to get my transmission rebuilt.

 

[98DropTop]

Hey, I am going to order a bunch of parts to change my clutch when I take my car out because its pretty bad parts include...
1) ACT 2100 clutch
2)SS clutch line
3) B&M shifter
4) symborski shift kit
5)Throw out bearing + clip
6) Pivot ball
7) protane motor mounts
also... do you guys think I would need to get something like BG synchroshift?

now the question: I was planning on getting the ACT flywheel which is chromoly and weighs ~ 11.5lbs or something... but my friend said I should get a lighter flywheel like the Fidanza Aluminum flywheel which weighs ~8.5lbs... He also says I should get that Fidanza one because it has the removable surface which is cheap that You can buy when it needs resrfacing so you dont have to buy a whole new flywheel or get one resurfaced. Now im not sure if that light of a flywheel would be good for our dsms... Anyone able to give me pointers on which one i should buy..... Thanks a lot

 

[spoonman]

The chromoly flywheel is slightly heavier but a lot stronger. I suggest you get the steel one, the strength also makes it a lot safer and will wear better.

 

[mylevi08]

go aluminum it'll be less power loss engine will rev slightly faster. Chromoly are use to more abuse but i've always ran aluminum and never had an issue. <-- except for the clutch disc on a gsx breaking but that was due to ragging it out hard... =)

 

[white_dsm]

Aluminum ftw.

 

[98DropTop]

Thats 2 Aluminum > 1 chromoly so far..

Also do you guys think I should get BG synchroshift gear lube? only $33 for 3 bottles, so if it will help its not like im breaking the bank for it....

 

[Thor06]

I'd get a chromoly one, the extra strength is worth the extra 3 lbs of rotating mass to me.

 

[cjridert1]

The alum. ones are nice that you can 'resurface' them umpteen times, I would get a light chromoly if I were you though as it is more inclined for prolonged use.

I am running BG 1 and notice substantial improvements; I haven't ran 2 but I can highly recommend bg1. Car goes into 1st while moving and shifts into 2nd without problems. Sucks you cant pick up the oil anywhere, so shipping $ is necessary.

 

[SOADweskey]

I have the ACT chomoly one for peace of mind. I just don't trust aluminum to handle hard launches without cracking. If my car was a full race car and I had the trans off to inspect the clutch every other month I wouldn't mind an aluminum one.

I use the BG II in my transmission and it shifts really well with it. But I haven't tried anything else really. I got my trans form TRE and broke it in with BGI and then after 500 miles changed it to BGII and have only changed it with that since then.

 

[JeffGST]

I have run both Aluminum and Chromoly Flywheels in my DSM's.

I will no longer run Aluminum Fidanza's anymore due to the strength factor. It warps too easy and I am always worried about the flywheel explosion. I've even seen the entire center section of the flywheel rip off of the friction surface. Many Fidanza owners also complain about the bolts backing out, which would cause a wicked vibration before it falls off.

I use an ACT Flywheel and I barely feel the difference in free rev speed. It weighs a bit more, but I'll live with it.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I have an ACT and would reccomend it. I won't use an aluminum flywheel like the fidanza because of the metal being to soft. This allows the bolts to back out and the flywheel to warp when abused too much.

 

[JeffGST]

Road Race Engineering just recently removed the Fidanza Flywheels from their website due to the failure rate they were seeing. They offer a GREAT replacement though.

They have the "No Brand Name" Flywheel which is supposedly the same manufacture that makes the ACT flywheel. You get the ACT flywheel without the ACT price. This is the flywheel I use on my Talon right now. RRE really pushes this product. They must get a nice kickback.

 

[SOADweskey]

Yeah, the RRE one is what the last two have been in my car. I just say ACT because that is what most people recognize it as. Great flywheel for the price and my last one took some serious clutch slipping abuse and didn't show any cracks at all.

 

[Black95awd]

act chromemoly and (2)- BG792 with (1)-redline shockproof ("the recipie")or (3) BG792

 

[98DropTop]

I will no longer run Aluminum Fidanza's anymore due to the strength factor. It warps too easy and I am always worried about the flywheel explosion.
I.

Your also a 10s awd car compared to my pretty much stock car... .... I don't think mine would really warp all that much seeing as Im not too far along the upgrading trail, and I only drive it like 7 months of the year and dont really race or launch it hard...yet... except for the odd launch to have a little fun and practice.... I know the ACT is much stronger and will last longer down the road anyways, 3lbs is not a big deal for a street car like mine..... I think i'll go with the ACT even though my buddy seems pretty stuck on the aluminum flywheel...mostly because he has one... I also read in the description of the Fidanza Aluminum flywheel that it makes it a lot harder to roll or drive really slow ~5mph or so, my friend has the same prblm... Unless someone has some good facts about the aluminum, i think my mind might be set on chromoly... thanks guys.

 

[Coder24]

Im looking into getting a new flywheel and I wasnt sure which one to go with. I found a few fidanza aluminums for cheap but I know there is something called chromolly...Whats the difference and what makes which one better than the other? Its for a FWD 91