ECT Sensor

[Calloflunacy]

I have a 96 Eagle Talon TSI, and the ECT(engine coolant temperature) sensor in the car continually fails. I have tried getting sensors from different auto parts stores, and they either do not have the correct one, or it works for a while, and then then fails after a couple weeks. Is there something wrong with the wiring harness of the car like a short or bad ground that could be causing this? The sensors I keep getting do not match the plug on the harness side exactly but they will plug into it. I don't want to turn over my wallet to the dealer unless I have to for this sensor, but I will if it is just the sensors do not work for the car. If anyone knows what the voltage or readings out of the plug should be on the harness side that would be helpful.

 

[SuzukiRidr326]

i had this problem too, i bought a 96 Talon that was converted to a GST, i went to the parts store and orderd a ECT for an eclipse not a TSi and it didnt work correctly the plugs on the TSI are different than the GST on the wiring harness, so make sure your getting one for the TSI not an eclipse. The ECT should have a 5v reference and a gorund out of the harness side.

 

[Calloflunacy]

I found one that fits the plug exactly, I measured the voltage readings out of the harness side when the car was on. It read 4.69volts DC which seems to be under, other then that, the wiring appears to be ok for as far as I can see it, no damage or exposed wires. The new sensor seems to be working for now, I pulled the last sensor out and checked it with the Ohm meter to make sure it was actually dead, and there was no continuity.

 

[Skippysnax]

what makes you think the sensor is out? is the car starting still?

 

[SuzukiRidr326]

you must have gotten a bad sensor bc when you ohm test it you should have some ohms there, with no cintinuity means the circuit is open which will casue the sensor not to work, it happens sometimes when you get a new sensor and if fails, get a new one and try it again.

the 4.69v is still ok tho, its a 5v reference but anything from 4.5-5v is acceptable

 

[Calloflunacy]

that is what I was hoping, the new one seems to be working fine now, and the the live data read outs more accurately match what the gauge in the stock instrument cluster is displaying and the fans turn on when they should. So this one is resolved thank you for your input.