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Eclipse 420 to 2.4 conversion

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briongonzalez

Probationary Member
1
0
Jan 11, 2008
austin, Texas
I have got a 97 eclipse N/T 420a. i recently sucked water into my intake and blew my engine.
i removed it and had it overbored .20 added a bunch of blot ons. and got the car running.
the when we timed it. for some reason it doesnt have the power i was expecting.
it runs as fast if not slower then it did before i did all that work.
and the rear main seal keeps blowing and puking all its oil out.
what did i miss.
what are the steps to doing a correct conversion.
im so lost and i want my baby running again. can anyone help me ?
 
The 2.4 hybrid is not an easy task, and most of the information on the swap is provided by our good friends over at 2GNT.com - home.

In short, it will require a 2.4 cloud car block and internals, (or SRT-4 internals) with your 2.0 mated to it. You will need to fabricate a motor mount, cut a notch into a 2.4 oil pan to clear the exhaust you must also create, flip your cam gears over, swap the coil signal wires and rewire the injectors to shift their sequence.

There are many choices and specifics you will discover when you research over at 2gnt.com.
 
The passenger side motor mount doesn't work, you will need a bracket made

the lower water pipe will need to be creatively held to the block, since the bolthole doesn't bolt up right

the dipstick will need to stick between header runners 2 and 3. Check the oil on a cold motor only

oil pan doesn't work well with the exhaust. Can be modified by cutting support ribs to make work with the crossmember, but for the exhaust, I am at a loss. Custom pan necessary

PT Cruiser alternator bracket works (can't remember the belt size)

must use underdrive pulley

recommend sandwich adaptor and oil filter relocation due to crappy location

custom ps and sc brackets need to be made, as well as a way to tension the belt

starter requires some notching of the bracket that holds the lower water pipe in order to bolt it to the transmission

the 4 corner head bolts must be from a 2.4, not a 2GNT, as the 2GNT corner head bolts (4 of them) are too short to meet the threads in the 2.4

2.4 oil pan gasket is needed

the main seals from the 2.4 are different then the 2.0

I recommend removing the balance shafts. They are on the bottom of the bedplate and can be removed by pulling 4 bolts and cutting the drive chain. There is now an oiling hole that must be blocked. I recommend tapping it and screwing a bolt in there, using red loctite

I also recommend baffling the oil pan if you remove the balance shafts. there is now a 6.5 qt. capacity in the pan which is too easy to slosh around.

2.4L valve cover doesn't fit well. Not sure if silicone sealant would fix this or not.

2.0 sensors (oil pressure, knock, and crank angle sensors) must be used. The 2.4 sensors don't fit the harnesses. Must get creative on knock sensor placement.

coil pack must be rewired: switch the outside wires

cam position magnet must be removed, the location nipples filed off, and replaced, turned counter clockwise 90 degrees.

Injectors must be rewired, move 4-3, 3-2, 2-1, 1-4.

This is all that I can think of off of the top of my head. I would not recommend this swap to my worst enemy.

I have posted this numerous times alredy.
Just do a search on this site or 2gnt you find out everything that you need to know.
 
Sorry guys I'm a little lost (maybe Paul editted out some info?). I see the title but the OP only asks about their 2.0 problems (which could easily be a ring/ringlanding problem. Or a problem with cylinder size matching the piston size. What sounds like is happening is that there is excessive blowby getting into the crankcase). You guys answered about a 2.4 swap.

Just Polishly challenged :confused:

MB
 
In his title he says "Eclipse 420a to 2.4 conversion." He also asks what are the steps into doing a conversion in his post. When I first read it I didnt know what it had to do with a 2.4 either but maybe that was added later on. It sounds like he didnt/doesnt realize how much work it would be and wanted to do the conversion while he is trying to fix the problem assuming all of the information is there.
 
can the stock 420a head be used on a 2.4l block or con a 420a be bored out to 2.4l?
 
can the stock 420a head be used on a 2.4l block or con a 420a be bored out to 2.4l?
You have to use the 2.0L head if you do a 2.4L swap. You cannot bore the 2.0L block to 2.4L, boring doesn't add anywhere near that much volume. You can, however, stroke the 2.0L block to 2.2L -- providing you can still find a 2.2L crank.
 
OP *face palm* Im wondering, if you cannot fix your 2.0, what makes you feel like you have the skillset to do a 2.4 swap? Anyway.

Ok, clearing up some miss info/ in general:

"must use underdrive pulley" - not true, use stock if your going to turbo it.. You can use an aftermarket, but not required. 2.0 and 2.4 are the same Pully

"the lower water pipe will need to be creatively held to the block, since the bolthole doesn't bolt up right" this is true, and its a fun one.. Problem youll have is it hitting the starter as well.

"PT Cruiser alternator bracket works (can't remember the belt size)" You can notch the 2.0 one, or get a 2.4 PT bracket, its a direct bolt on, you will also need to get the lower bracket to.

"recommend sandwich adaptor and oil filter relocation due to crappy location"this is true, or you could go right off your pan. There are a few options here.. Doing a remote IMO is the best.. but its not the easy route.

"starter requires some notching of the bracket that holds the lower water pipe in order to bolt it to the transmission" -Nope. You dont need to touch the starter, it will bolt fine. The warter pipe is the funky one here where you need to remove a few stand offs on the block .

"the 4 corner head bolts must be from a 2.4, not a 2GNT, as the 2GNT corner head bolts (4 of them) are too short to meet the threads in the 2.4" Correct. Just get SRT ARP head studs and call it a day.

"I recommend removing the balance shafts. They are on the bottom of the bedplate and can be removed by pulling 4 bolts and cutting the drive chain. There is now an oiling hole that must be blocked. I recommend tapping it and screwing a bolt in there, using red loctite"
DO THIS!

"I also recommend baffling the oil pan if you remove the balance shafts. there is now a 6.5 qt. capacity in the pan which is too easy to slosh around." This is good, depending on pan you use, IJ makes a baffle sys for it. If you go that route, you wont need an Oil pan gasket. If you have a custom pan, they can make you one for that to. just make sure you tell them to make it ARP main stud freindly.

"2.4L valve cover doesn't fit well. Not sure if silicone sealant would fix this or not." It will.

"cam position magnet must be removed, the location nipples filed off, and replaced, turned counter clockwise 90 degrees. " needs to be CLOCKWISE 90*

Addtional: Youll want all SRT timing componets and as well as oil pump. You may also want the Oil restictor ( either dcr or OEM if you can find it) as oil pressures is no an issue witht he srt pump.. It will help control your oil in conjunction with the Baffles.

To re-itterate, not an easy swap, It very easy to half ass for sure as some have done it.. .. I we MSnS when i did mine, but that didnt make it any easier.. it made the wiring cake, but it also presented more dificult challanges.. Your better off figuring out whats wrong with your 2.0 IMO.
 
...psst, the OP started this thread four years ago. I bet he has his problem figured out by now.
 
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