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ebay BOV wont go off..any clues?

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
Okay so this is a full rebuild, I went cheap on the BOV a while back since I didnt have one at all. Looks fairly solid, all metal, manualy pushed the button before installation. No boost leaks, everythings sealed, car builds boost just fine but I just haven't heard it at all. Running stock boost on a 16G.

wastegate is not stuck at all, tried loosening the nut on top, holding it and then backing out the stud with the alen wrench, retightened everything. No different. Thing is, was I backed it out close to all the way. How much boost does it take for the BOV to go off?
 
Are you getting any compressor surge? Are you still recirculating? Any pictures you could post up? Any way you could pop the top off and take a pic?

How much boost depends on the BOV. In theory, a BOV should open with any difference in pressure between the intake pipes and manifold. However, the spring pressure and diaphragm type/condition are huge factors. I've purchased valves off eBay that did absolutely nothing, the valve wouldn't even move if you pushed on it by hand. But they resulted in serious compressor surge.
 
I'd try to open the inside of it up and see if there is by chance 2 springs in there. If so, try taking the smaller inside spring out and leave the larger outside spring in. This is a common thing to do with the knock off type s blow off valves. I did this to the punishment bov that came in my kit because all it would do is surge, but it was bearly audible.
 
Are you getting any compressor surge? Are you still recirculating? Any pictures you could post up? Any way you could pop the top off and take a pic?

How much boost depends on the BOV. In theory, a BOV should open with any difference in pressure between the intake pipes and manifold. However, the spring pressure and diaphragm type/condition are huge factors. I've purchased valves off eBay that did absolutely nothing, the valve wouldn't even move if you pushed on it by hand. But they resulted in serious compressor surge.


This is my first DSM so I have no idea if I'm getting compressor surge or not. Everything seems fine as I'm accelerating, and going through all the gears. Boost gauge indicates that I'm building boost, I can also hear the turbo as it builds, just no BOV sound at all.

what are the symptoms of surge? the 1inch hose IS connected back to the intake pipe, so its recirculated right? The vacuum line off the BOV goes to the nipple on the intake manifold right now as that's what I read to do.

Tightening the center stud&nut would only make it harder to open right?

should I pop the top off and take out the springs? I heard theres 2 different ones. I can take pics right now.
 
Ya unloosen all the screws, take out the big spring..leave the smaller one in...See if that helps.

Sounds recirced.

So I should be able to do this with the BOV still attatched to the I/C piping right? So that I don't have to break that seal? I understand I'd reseal the BOV afterwards.
 
Yeah you can leave it on the piping. Just take the screws out of the top that circle the valve, and then check to see what you have for spring(s) in there.

Thanks again, I'm going to take it out now and post pics if somethings unusual, I'll atleast post back later tonight to update what was inside it.
 
Last edited:
First clue: Ebay

My "ebay" Type-S BOV holds over 25psi of boost and is more responsive than my crushed 1g BOV was. There's a lot of junk parts on eBay, but that doesn't mean they all are.

This is my first DSM so I have no idea if I'm getting compressor surge or not. Everything seems fine as I'm accelerating, and going through all the gears. Boost gauge indicates that I'm building boost, I can also hear the turbo as it builds, just no BOV sound at all.

what are the symptoms of surge?

This is basically what off-boost compressor surge sounds like. Just listen for the "flutter" and ignore the "dump". If you have an open filter it should be really obvious, even at stock boost.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEUWEsqoWz8]What is Flutterdump? - YouTube[/ame]

But yes, remove the top and take some pics of the guts.
 
I had this SAME problem a couple months ago. I got an ebay type RS BOV. my BOV would not open. I opened it up and took out the narrower spring and left the wider spring inside. also make sure your vacuum line is going to the large port on the intake manifold and NOT the tiny ports on the throttle body. After taking out the spring if you look into the BOV and rev the engine a slight bit you should see the valve open. It is also a good idea to have a true boost gauge to monitor your vac/boost.
 
Alright so I ended up taking the whole BOV off the piping just cause I wanted to get a feel of the part that pushes up at the mating surface. Would go in all the way when I pushed it, but felt a little more resistance then I remembered, not much so maybe not even.

Took the top off, 2 springs came out together, one stronger then the other. Other then the springs there was just 1 brass disc, didn't see which way it was sitting, but I'm assuming the flat side was facing down and the springs sat on the side with the indentions/layers.

when I put it back together how I assumed it was, after all the screws were tightened it was like the pice did not push up all the way like before even though the bigger/tougher spring was taken out. :( I reversed the disc and it was the same/slightly worse. It was like it was not going up all thwe way.

here's the pic but I'm already looking for a good brand BOV this time..hopefully not more then $200. anyone have any recomendations for stock/moderate boost levels on a 16g?

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