Easy timing question

[justinh722]

I haven't had a chance to set my base timing so I set the CAS to the middle and then advanced it a little. So let's say my timing is set at 5 ATDC and link shows timing of 8 at WOT, would that mean I'm actually running 13 degrees of timing? I would set the base timing but I need an adjustable timing light and haven't gotten around to finding one.

I'm basically trying to find a reason for my knock. At WOT, link shows 8 degrees of timing and then starts to knock. Seems a little low to start knocking. Here's a short clip I cut of a WOT run I did. Any suggestions?

 

[Calan]

Here's what I notice at a quick glance:

1. Your TPS appears to be off (you aren't using ECMLink's built-in adjustment tool)

2. Your IAT's are sky high, topping out at over 160*.

3. Coolant temp is high, so timing is being pulled by the ECU

4. You are running really rich, with AFRs dropping into the 9's at some points. (Why are you adding fuel with the sliders?)

5. You are running 640us of deadtime, which seems really high for those injectors.

6. You are knocking too much. The ECU is pulling almost 6* of timing at redline due to knock, and an additional degree or two due to the coolant temp. Combine that with the resulting timing you are logging, and that adds up to around 16* (track the log in the DA table and you'll see it). That's too much timing advance considering those temperatures, which is most likely a big part of why it's knocking in the first place.

I think you need to step back, do some reading, and start with the basics. Get the cruise and idle tune dialed in and work on those temperature issues before you start worrying about WOT and end up blowing your motor.

 

[justinh722]

The tps was at 100 percent but for some reason isn't getting there anymore. I don't know what to do about the IAT's. Why are they so high? If Im running rich, shouldn't my EGT's be lower than normal? Coolant temp always hits 210 and then the fans kick in. Is there a way to kick the fan on before 210? The pulls I did prior to these had afr's in the 12.6 range so I added some fuel. I haven't been out to tweak the afr's yet but a stock ECU runs in the 9's and don't get this kind of knock.

That's all I've been doing for the past 6 months is reading. I couldn't get my idle dialed in no matter what I did. I grounded the timing connector and the diagnostic connecter and the ISC sits at 9 the whole time I'm adjusting. When ungrounded, it goes to 100. I decided to run my idle in open loop. The logs before these I was getting 12 degree's of knock. When I adjust my openloopmaxoct tables after tracking a log, the next run I do tracks completely different cells. I tried using the excel spreadsheet over on the link forums to dial in my VE tables. I try adjusting the dead time and the VE tables to get my combinedFT's in order.

Adjusted some things and got my AFR's in check. Someone on dsmlink forums did my DA tables and had me run another log and told me to pull timing when I seen knock. I have the timing pulled down to 3 degrees and I'm still knocking. I realize the coolant temps are high but I read a lot of ppl are in the 210-220 range. I plan on getting a 160 thermostat. The IAT's are very high also which I don't get why with only 3 pounds more boost than factory. I fixed the TPS problem, throttle cable had come a little loose. I changed the deadtime and got that lowered too. To check base fuel pressure, i just check the fuel pump on in link with the car off and set it to 43.5 psi right? While its running its around 40.