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Ease of exhaust manifold stud removal

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OSXer

15+ Year Contributor
137
3
Sep 23, 2005
SE, Michigan
For those of you who have removed the bolts though, how easy is this to do? I'd like to replace mine as well, but am a bit worried about major down time since it's my daily driver. I know I have one stud broken off already from the previous owner, but I haven't had the chance to take the exhaust manifold off and discover whether it's cracked inside or outside of the head yet. I'd just hate to start marring up the threads with vise grips while trying to twist them out, only to have them snapping off in the head. I'm also curious how easily the new ones thread back in?
 
Are you talking about the ones that bolt the mani to the block, or the 4 that go through the manifold to the turbo?? If it's those 4, I've had trouble with them first hand as well as numerous other DSMers I know...especially when high miles have accumulated. I guess it's different for every vehicle though, but if one is already broke, I wouldn't risk depending on the others.
 
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The studs on the manifold (correct me if I'm wrong) have a reverse thread.... The easiest way of taking those suckers off is to use the old nut and tighten it back on. When it tightens all the way, it will come out. Just make sure you replace them with a stud kit... (studs and the nuts that come with it).... I would recommend Slowboy racing to get those. They are fairly cheap and they have them in OEM and i believe their Stainless steal... if your going to bling bling it. They are good guys. always recommended.


-PAUL
 
97EclipseGS-T said:
The studs on the manifold (correct me if I'm wrong) have a reverse thread.... The easiest way of taking those suckers off is to use the old nut and tighten it back on. When it tightens all the way, it will come out. Just make sure you replace them with a stud kit... (studs and the nuts that come with it).... I would recommend Slowboy racing to get those. They are fairly cheap and they have them in OEM and i believe their Stainless steal... if your going to bling bling it. They are good guys. always recommended.


-PAUL

www.ssstuds.com is cheaper. No tax, free s&h too.

Just make sure you put THREE S's in the URL, and not two...it's not a pretty site, I found out. :notgood: Unless you're into that sorta thing..
 
paec311 said:
Are you talking about the ones that bolt the mani to the block, or the 4 that go through the manifold to the turbo?? If it’s those 4, I've had trouble with them first hand as well as numerous other DSMers I know..
I was referring to the ones between the manifold and the head, but I am not looking forward to the turbo bolts either. I'm planning to replace the turbo and exhaust manifold at the same time, so my intentions are to remove the ones I have now as an entire unit and deal with getting them apart after the car is up and running.

GreenGSX said:
Put two nuts on the stud. Then put a wrench on the inboard nut to remove it. The outside nut acts as the jamb nut.
That sounds simple enough - I hope it's honestly that easy. It seems like every project my 1g turns into taking much longer than the impression from just reading over the procedure due to fatigued nuts, bolts, ect.
 
The jam nut method is a very easy install. I just installed my ss studs from SBR today. Just make sure you have the threads cleaned out!!
 
you will probably end up breaking a few bolts. don't despair. I got most of mine out by threading the copper bolt back on, heating it with a propane torch so the nut would seize on the bolt and then turning it out of the head. However, I did have to resort to an EZ-out on two of the bolts that broke off flush with the head. To do this required drilling the steel bolt with a reversed titanium drill bit.

in one case, the EZ-out broke, even though I was careful. That required a $12 tungsten carbide dremel bit and about 45 minutes of careful work to fix that mess. Once the tip of the EZ-out was dislodged, I used the dremel to open up the hole inside the bolt a bit and used a larger EZ-out to get the rest out.

Penetrating oil, heat and a lot of patience are required here. Don't forget the anti-seize for when you are putting it all back together.
 
97EclipseGS-T said:
The studs on the manifold (correct me if I'm wrong) have a reverse thread.... The easiest way of taking those suckers off is to use the old nut and tighten it back on. When it tightens all the way, it will come out. Just make sure you replace them with a stud kit... (studs and the nuts that come with it).... I would recommend Slowboy racing to get those. They are fairly cheap and they have them in OEM and i believe their Stainless steal... if your going to bling bling it. They are good guys. always recommended.


-PAUL

Correcting you since you are wrond :)
It's not reverse thread, and if you just keep tightning the nut, you will snap the stud or strip threads.
Best way was already mention. Jamming two nuts on a stud, and using the inner one to back out the whole stud. Studs can be installed the same way. That way threads aren't damaged by vice-grips or whatever else is ised to grab it.
 
Why start another thread , when I can bring this alive . Installing a new mani . To my surprise , the 2 outside studs are broke off in head . How crucial are these . Could I be sealed without them ? Or do I need to take the long hours to remove them ?
 
So wait a min. I just tore down my engine and i have the block and head sitting on a stand. I have about 4 or 5 studs broken off inside my head. Does this mean my easy-out i just got wont work? Cus didn't you say they were reverse threads? I'm at my parents right now and dont have a chance to go check it out. Will an easy out work? It should right?:confused: WTF
 
i own a 1986 chevy caprice in addition to my DSM, and a few months ago i installed headers. it's really no big deal to get the studs out of any block, and i have done plenty including turbo vehicles.

1. let the car sit to completly cool down. you want it complety cool because heat makes metal expand.
2. get some rust eater that penetrates and spray it on there in excess. all around the bolts and let it sit for 5 mins or so.
3. follow the instructions with the two nuts and everything
4. take a tap that is the same size and thread of what you took out of the block and run it through the threads until it stops. this will remove all the rust, and make it a perfect hole.
5. get some quality gaskets if they are available. i like copper, but i haven't ever had the oppertunity to use them on turbo vehicles, so i don't know how well they will hold up on them.
6. get a header bolt kit to eliminate the crappy studs, as they suck butt.
7. install new manifold/header.
 
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