Eagle Rods too tight!

[sestepney]

I got my engine from the machine shop and began re-installing my bottom end. I didn't get the crank machined because it didn't look bad, I was going to gauge it once I dropped everything back in. So I got the crank put in with ACL main bearings and got a smooth rotation. Once I dropped my JE pistons in and torqued the eagle rods, I couldn't turn the crank at all. I used KING bearings for my rod bearings(STD size). If I loosen up the rod bolts the crank turns freely. I gauged the journals and they are close to .003. Do I need different rod bearings or to get the journals grounded down?

 

[Palmetto_TSi]

sounds like maybe they sent you the wrong bearings. If they sent you oversize bearings (undersize journal), it would obviously make them tighter. when you torqued them down was ther a gap between the rod and cap?

 

[sestepney]

^^No, there was no gap.

 

[skizzo81]

I would either check it out or have the machine shop check out the clearance and then buy the right size bearings or cut the crank.

 

[Palmetto_TSi]

verify the part number on the bearing boxes with the king website. you also may want to measure each journal 90 degrees apart and each side of the journal (left and right/ 4 measurements per journal). this will show an egg shaped or tapered journal. Also, dip your finger in oil and glide your finger around the journal with your eyes closed. If you can feel anything at all, you need to have the crank machined, or even replaced. If you are looking at making some real power, I recommend a new crank as machining the journals can remove the nitride coating on them. Another thing you can do, but I wouldn't if you plan to return the bearings, try half torquing the rods and spinning the crank. take the rods off and inspect the bearings. they will be shiney where ever friction has occoured just like in an old engine. This will of course make the bearing un-usable, and non returnable... if they are returnable to begin with.

Hope this helps

 

[Slo2gen]

You could also throw some plastigauge in it and see what it measures. Sounds like either you got the wrong bearings or your crank is out of round.

 

[donniekak]

Do the rods have the matching caps on them, with both tangs on the same side? Also what part number is on the bearing box?

 

[white92talontsi]

You either have over sized bearing's or you have the rod cap's mismatched or turned the wrong way.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

It can not be the rods unless you got the wrong ones. Verify part numbers for rods and bearings before anything else. Also listen to the above post and make sure that both marks for the bearings are on the same side. Not specific but from the factory they all came on the exhaust side, again this is not a must but I was anal during my build.

If the rods are for your application then there is 99.9% that they are not the problem. The big end is machined to the same tolerance no matter the crank journal diameter.

The bearings are what make up the difference between the rod and crank journal therefore I believe that this has a larger chance of being your problem. Once again this will be verified by the first step in this post by verifying part numbers.

As far as the crank goes you could at least take it down to the machine shop and have it miced if you do not have the tools to do it yourself. This will verify the roundness of your crank journals and determine whether you have a good crank or need to have it polished or turned.

Another clearance is the side clearance for the thrust bearing. If you do not the proper clearance here of course things will bind.

Let us know once you have found your problem as it may be informative to members later on.

Hope this helps and good luck.

 

[DeadlyAKrunna47]

Make sure you have the rod caps the right way. Clean the bearings before you put them in. Make sure when you put the bearing on the rod or rod cap make sure that area is spotless clean. Any small spec will throw off tolerences. I like to think of it as surgery. >clean

 

[donniekak]

Any chance they are 4g63 parts?

 

[sestepney]

THX for all the info guys! I went ahead and ordered a new crank thats been machined and comes with the bearings that fit the specs. I figured my car had a 196K on it so... why not just replace the crank to be on the safe side. Once I get it, I'll drop it in and post the outcome. I still plan to check and see if they may indeed gave me the wrong bearings but I did make sure the rod caps matched and faced the same way.

 

[skizzo81]

THX for all the info guys! I went ahead and ordered a new crank thats been machined and comes with the bearings that fit the specs. I figured my car had a 196K on it so... why not just replace the crank to be on the safe side. Once I get it, I'll drop it in and post the outcome. I still plan to check and see if they may indeed gave me the wrong bearings but I did make sure the rod caps matched and faced the same way.

Did the old crank not spec out? i mean if the crank was the problem wouldn't it be looser? because it would be worn and the clearance would be more????

 

[1fastlaser]

The rods can be out of spec...they are made in china. Sometimes they can and have to be resized and run a oversized bearing to make the clearances perfect. The crank could be egg shaped...or the bearings could be wrong.

I would have the machinist spec out the rods/crank, and see what needs to be done.

 

[firefighter]

Check your rod bearings the sizes should be stamped on the outside of the bearing shell.Also install one conrod at a time then spin the crank.If one journal is out of round it could make everything bind.Make sure you are using the right torque specs.Bring your rods to the machine shop and have everything measured.I usually do this before I start a rebuild most of the time everything checks out fine but I need a part to come in once defective to make me question everything.Also you should have all parts balanced.

 

[skizzo81]

ok so did you machine shop spec out the crack before you bought a new crank??? i hope so

 

[sestepney]

So I got my new machined crank and dropped it in the block and everything was smooth as could be. I double check the part numbers on the old bearings and they checked out as the right ones. I did catch a mistake I made on the old crank, I had two of the rod caps backwards or not matching the same rod number. I don't know if that is what could have caused the crank to bind but oh well, its smooth now! I know what everyone is thinking and your right, SLOW down and take my time on gauging everything so that it's right!!

 

[bullettdsm]

Do the rods have the matching caps on them, with both tangs on the same side? Also what part number is on the bearing box?

You either have over sized bearing's or you have the rod cap's mismatched or turned the wrong way.

Make sure you have the rod caps the right way.

I had two of the rod caps backwards or not matching the same rod number. I don't know if that is what could have caused the crank to bind

That is exactly what made it bind. I hope you kept your old crank. Probably nothing wrong with it.

MB

 

[sestepney]

^^I did keep it! I still feel better knowing I'm getting a fresh start with the new one in!