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Dynamat vs Herculiner

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romeen

DSM Wiseman
2,529
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Jul 12, 2006
Vancouver, Washington
I had a discussion with a guy who competes in SQ audio competitions. He said he has coated the interior of most of his body panels with Herculiner (truck bed liner). He felt that this was much more effective at eliminating unwanted vibrations and panel flex than Dynamat. Has anyone else heard of this or have any experience with it? If so, what were the results?
 
Ive never had a problem with dyno mat. Works perfect. Shit Chip Foose use's it on all of his cars he builds.

I use Dynamat as well and think that it works quite well. But to say that it works "perfect" is being pretty bold.
 
There's quite a number of products similar to DynaMat in the construction world, which don't have DynaMat printed on the foil and cost 1/3 as much for the deficit.
 
There's quite a number of products similar to DynaMat in the construction world, which don't have DynaMat printed on the foil and cost 1/3 as much for the deficit.

God I love stuff like that. I just filled my motor mounts with polyeurathane for 10 bucks ;) Hard as a rock...
 
Unfortunately this thread veered off of the real topic which was comparing the potential advantage of using truck bed liner (polyurethane) instead of a tar or rubber based sound deadening mat. The Herculiner will obviously cure to a much harder substance and according to one person who competes in audio competitions is superior to Dynamat and other similar products for reducing panel flex. Since I have only heard this from one person I was wondering if anyone else had tried it or seen it done.

FWIW, the person I am referring to had a 2G with one of the most incredible car audio systems I have ever heard. But I can't say how much of that, if any, was attributable to the use of the Herculiner.

Nonetheless, thanks for the responses guys.:)
 
Unfortunately this thread veered off of the real topic which was comparing...

Good god, yes it did... we went from sound deadening truck liner, to poly engine mounts WTF

I can't honestly tell you that I've ever tried using poly truck liner, so I can't tell you how good - or bad it is. I can however give you my experienced opinion on sound deadening materials like dynamat..

I can't see using harder compounds as sound deadening material, vibrations and flex exist, they are never going to go away. The only time I would say someone eliminated 'flex' in a sound system, is when they built their subwoofer enclosure out of fiber reinforced thick-walled concrete. Anyway, what I'm trying to say, is that you may be able to lessen vibrations or flex, but they will always be there. Through trial and error of different methods and materials, I've found that even using blow-in house insulation worked amazingly well in between the interior plastic panels and the body metal panels. Using large diameter, short length sheet-metal screw to replace all the plastic body clips completely eliminated any trace of rattle you could find. There is aftermarket everything for the sound system, and it sounds good.
I can show you pictures as proof if you really want to see it. :D


Stick with the dynamat, there is a fine balance between too-hard and too-soft. Dynamat is thin enough to fit in tight spots where you wouldn't have room for a lot of insulation, but still a good density for eliminating a lot of vibrations.
 
hpram99, thanks for the reply. There is some good info there. I actually tried the sheet metal screws to secure the panels in the hatch area since I am not as concerned with cosmetic value in that area. Unfortunately it won't look very nice in the cockpit area unless there is some other method of using them that I am missing.

I wonder if anyone has sprayed the backside of the panels with rubberized undercoating and how well that might work. It would certainly be very cheap. I don't know about the fumes though. I guess if you left the panel out for several days the fumes would wear off but that's just speculation. I'm not even sure it would work well.

Having said that I have used Dynamat extensively and I do agree that it works very well.
 
I'd use spray urethane foam instead of undercoating. You're trying to alter the modulus of the interior's hard parts. You can do it by making a more stable and secure attachment to "loose" parts, or you can do it by snubbing them with soft, insulating materials that will dampen the vibrations. You can also effect tuning by weighting the object, moving its harmonics out of the range of the vibrations it's being subjected to (if you have a rear-view mirror whose image buzzes, put a piece of wheel tape-a-weight on the back of it).
Since you're fussy about the topic, I'd have some reservations about using bed liner for audio. Whereas Dynamat-type materials will have some absorptive power along with their weight, I don't know if bed liner would be stiff enough on its own to be as suitable. Further, in that much of the kind of modern ....ah.... "music" derives so much of its "value" [cough] from a heavy bass, the bed-liner could lose some of that where the Dynamat would enhance it.
But that's the way of innovation. Someone will like the sound, and things could head into a different direction from it.
 
Very well put. I'm glad there is someone with some intelligent input on this topic.

I missed the part about actual stiffening of the panels. I left the car audio/video scene a few years ago and do not remember ever coming across atual stiffening of the panels. Can you explain what you try to accomplish by this?
(i would write more but my keyboard is fubar) :mad:
 
If you don't care how it looks, I would remove all the back trim in the hatch area.It will really help kill unwanted noise from a loud system, especially covered with deadening material.
I think as far as Dynamat VS "bedliner", that Dynamat will stop as much vibrations as "bedliner" but it will stay softer and reflect the bass harder too.And a cheaper version will probably be just as good as real Dynamat.
 
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