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Duplicolor, Rhinoliner, Truck Bed Liner, Spray or Roll on Rhino Lining

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95CarbonEclipse

15+ Year Contributor
1,279
5
Sep 16, 2005
Yakima, Washington
Okay, so as we speak my old nasty carpet is soaking in a bucket of Oil Eaters degreaser after being pressure washed. While I've got my carpet out, I'm thinking of applying a DIY truck bed liner to the entire floor board area of my car (front and back passenger area along with the spare tire trunk area) for sound deadening/insulating effect. Has anyone on this forum ever done this before? I know that a lot of Jeep guys will go this route for its ruggedness and I've seen it done on MuscleCar (but they had it professionally done). Also, I'd like to hear any tips or advice on what steps I should take when doing this and what would be better, spray on or roll/paint on?

Right now my plans are as follows:

1. Vacuum all loose debris from the floor boards.

2. Lightly sand/scuff the current painted metal as best I can to promote a good adhesion of the liner. I won't be spending a ton of time in this area as the floor boards are corrugated and would take forever to sand every last nook and cranny.

3. Wipe down/Wash the sanded areas to clean up any remaining debris.

4. Tape off fuel pump hatch and any other areas that shouldn't be coated.

5. Apply truck bed liner (either spray or roll on).
 
Another route you can take os using that foam insulation that comes in a spray can. This is a cheaper route but may be better for sound deadening if you have subs or modified stereo. A friend of mine did it and it worked great. As for the bedliner I feel like that is more useful if you will be hauling things in a truck bed or for the jeepers for the added support when they are off roading with lots of mud.
 
Iwould imagine that applying a layer of spray foam would take up quite a bit of space that would make it difficult when re-installing the carpet and seats. The reason I'm doing this is mainly to keep the outside noise... outside, not so much for a big bulky speaker box full of subs.
 
I really like eDead v3 from Elemental Designs its paint on, but it is some of the best quality you can buy.
I have 1 coat in the back half of the car and trunk. It made a significant difference, but I will need another coat or two and also I will have to do the rest of the flooring, obviously.
 
I really like eDead v3 from Elemental Designs its paint on, but it is some of the best quality you can buy.
I have 1 coat in the back half of the car and trunk. It made a significant difference, but I will need another coat or two and also I will have to do the rest of the flooring, obviously.

That doesn't look to be too spendy. How much did you purchase to do your trunk area. Do you think a gallon would be enough to do the entire trunk and passenger areas? Or... would a half gallon do the trick?

Also, what steps did you take when you applied this stuff?
 
I would also like to know, because my car rattles like a mofo.
 
i rolled herculiner inside the car and as a undercoating. this stuff works awesome, all the custom car builders are doing this now. also, a good alternative to dynamat is a product called fatmat. its on ebay, or google fatmat, i have it in my 1984 ford ranger, its 50 mils thick, a 100 sqft roll is 139.00 shipped, but i would spend the extra and get fatmat rattletrap, its 80mils thick. this stuff really works, no road noise, no vibrations, and it cut my wind noise down alot. i would recommend this to anyone

to roll herculiner, first, wash the inside with tsp, then scuff the floor with a scotch brite, dont use laquer or alcohal based products, or it wont stick, then blow it all clean, and roll it on, thats it, its good stuff, and eastwood sells a gun for 20 bucks if you want to spray it. but rolling is just as good.

wait did you want to know about herculiner or the fatmat??

no need to grind the paint, just scuff it so the floor is not shiney. just to give the liner something to bite into. you dont have to go crazy, use a course scotche brite, like a red or green, and itll take maybe half an hour, but, the liner needs to cure overnight, as with any liner, rhino liner, duplicolor, ect.

well if you want to go the electric sander route, throw atleast 180 on it, 180, 220, 280 should do the trick, probably the 180, itll scuff it nice without grinding the paint. just make sure to wash the car out with tsp FIRST, this will kepp from speading grease and oil with the sander.

just remember, the sparay can undercoating is not as good as herculiner. its hard to spray, and doesnt do as good of a job, if you want an alternative to do on the roof, eastwoodcompany.com has a undercoating that works really good, cheap too.

Is this stuff very heavy? I have heard people say it was, but i cant imagine it would be that bad.

so 95carboneclipse, what are the results?

Your car is going to smell like paint FOREVER

For the price, durability, function and application method, I am searching bedliner spray .I HAVE SEEN MANY BRAND NAME LIKE QWIKLINER ,LINE-X,ETC.WHICH ONE BETTER
Any input will be greatly appreciated.

If you r looking for the truck bed liner, I will recommended Qwikliner.Recently I have applied qwikliner on my truck .I am fully satisfied with their product, price and installation process

Line x is too costly.If anybody looking for cheaper and best spray. Go for the qwikliner (Best Spray on bedliner with low cost startup).

I have been spraying QWIK Liner for about 5 years and find the product excellent. The ease of the product to work with and low odor is wonderful. QWIK Liner is everything it says it is! it's fast.

I still bought mine for $5 a can, and very happy how it came out, but also I am not throwing heavy objects and hauling stuff, this was just for my floor and trunk, because my car is completely gutted, and going to stay that way. Really just wanted something to try to drown out road noise. Although 3inch open down pipe doesn't really work out well either.

I have qwikliner in three truck beds and feel that it is a better product than others. It seems to be tougher. However, the key to getting a good spray-on bedliner is the installer. If they cut corners, or don't know what they are doing, you can get a lousy job from either brand. Look at some trucks the installer has done before you let him do one for you. Look for clean edges, a good thick even coating, even texture, and make sure they take out any and all bolts, nuts or other removable parts before they spray the Qwikliner on.(Like bolts and cover plates that access tailgate latch linkages) If they have sprayed over this hardware it is a sign that they are doing a quick, cheapie job, AND, you will never get it apart if you need to. A friend of mine is in the business and pointed out to me how to spot these signs of a cheap spray job

See the picture after spraying the qwikliner.Niether fade nor peeled problem.

it all depends on what your using i recomend line-x

^ what are you using it on? I used the duplicolor spray on bedliner for my floor and trunk, and i am impressed with it.

^ what are you using it on? I used the duplicolor spray on bedliner for my floor and trunk, and i am impressed with it.

I use Line-X on this:

I have applied qwikliner on my truck.For the price, durability, function and application method, I highly recommend the qwikliner bed liner.

Qwikliner bedliner looks awesome.what is the cost of spray on bedliner.

I have applied qwikliner on my truck.I am fully satisfied with the quality ,price and installation method.
 

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i rolled herculiner inside the car and as a undercoating. this stuff works awesome, all the custom car builders are doing this now. also, a good alternative to dynamat is a product called fatmat. its on ebay, or google fatmat, i have it in my 1984 ford ranger, its 50 mils thick, a 100 sqft roll is 139.00 shipped, but i would spend the extra and get fatmat rattletrap, its 80mils thick. this stuff really works, no road noise, no vibrations, and it cut my wind noise down alot. i would recommend this to anyone

Did you sand/scuff the paint on the inside of your truck when doing this?

Herculiner (I saw this stuff at Schucks/Checkers)... Curious, how much actual scuffing would you say needs to take place. For example, would it be a good idea to stick some high grit sandpaper on an electric sander, or does using the scotch brite pad by hand go pretty quickly?? I don't wanna spend all day scuffing/sanding the inside of my car.

Yea. I wasn't going to sand down the paint, but I just figured that I could get the whole inside of the car scuffed up pretty good, real quickly, by using an electric hand sander. I don't know if you've ever seen the floor board of these cars, but it's got a ton of bends and corrugation throughout the entire car. I'm pretty sure that even with an electric sander it'll take at least a half hour to scuff the entire surface of the interior and trunk area.
 
All you have to do is wash it with soapy water and dry it off before you put it on. I used 1/2 gal. on the car, and I expect to need another gallon or 2 by the time I'm done. But I'm going to cover every inch, twice.
 
All you have to do is wash it with soapy water and dry it off before you put it on. I used 1/2 gal. on the car, and I expect to need another gallon or 2 by the time I'm done. But I'm going to cover every inch, twice.

I guess the 1 quart I picked up won't be enough then. :( I plan on doing just about every section imaginable. Floor boards, inner rear quarter panels, underneath the rear passenger seats, inner roof around the sunroof, along with the entire trunk area (includeing the side panels). I'm also thinking that I'll use some of the spray can stuff to get into those hard to reach area's.

Hopefully the 1 quart will get me through the areas that are covered by the carpet so that I can reinstall my carpet and brand new seats.

PieEyedPiper... there's some wires that are taped to the bottom of the floor board area. Did you just remove those wires first before applying the polyurethane?
 
95Carbon - You can get Scotchbrite pads in a wheel form. I use them every day at work (jeweler). I'd imagine you can get them with an adapter for a drill. Also look for "flap sanding" wheels, they are really common, and available in many grits. Either of these will cut down on your prep time.
 
Good idea... I almost picked up a few of those when I was sanding my brake calipers down smooth last summer. Thanks!

BTW... its not worth the time to do this to your calipers unless their chock full of rust like mine were. In hindsight, it would've been a lot easier to just submerge them in water and hook a battery charger up to them to remove the rust.

I picked up the Duplicolor version of this stuff which comes in a roll on and a spray on application.
 
95CarbonEclipse - I just moved them out of the way, there were a few that I just painted over..cause I didn't care. But any of the serious wiring I took the time to paint under them rather than over them, a non-issue, really.
 
I prefer the spray on undercoating. i do undercoating at work on new vehicles and such all the time. the spray on it way easier to put on. make sure you keep the undercoating off anything that heats up (such as exhaust piping) or it will catch fire. on the plus this should deaden noise very well :thumb:
 
Is this stuff very heavy? I have heard people say it was, but i cant imagine it would be that bad.

It weighs about the same as a can of paint. If you put a gallon in your car, you're adding about the weight of a gallon of paint to your car.

I prefer the spray on undercoating. i do undercoating at work on new vehicles and such all the time. the spray on it way easier to put on. make sure you keep the undercoating off anything that heats up (such as exhaust piping) or it will catch fire. on the plus this should deaden noise very well :thumb:

:confused:So... I shouldn't have my custom 4" exhaust routed through my backseat?
 
as long as you don't spray the exhaust with it. anywhere around it should be fine. a mercedes here in the city was sitting out front of a dealership waiting for pickup from a customer when it went up in flame because they sprayed the exhaust. i've never actually seen it catch fire but i've heard stories.
 
Another route you can take os using that foam insulation that comes in a spray can. This is a cheaper route but may be better for sound deadening if you have subs or modified stereo. A friend of mine did it and it worked great. As for the bedliner I feel like that is more useful if you will be hauling things in a truck bed or for the jeepers for the added support when they are off roading with lots of mud.

DO NOT use expandin foam....it traps moisture and will rust your car out......
 
Well, I decided on going with the Duplicolor spray seen here:


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I originally had bought a quart of the roll on type by duplicolor, but then decided that it would be much easier and quicker to use a spray on type. So far I've got about 2 coats on the interior floor pan and will be doing another 2-3 coats on top of that. Using the spray makes it easy to get into hard to reach areas or areas with tight angles (especially in the trunk area). Because the spray is rubberized I feel that it is going to work extremely well at dampening outside road noise. I'll post pics when I get home tonight.

A little later then what I had promised but here are the pics I said I'd post. This is after about 2 coats. I ended up putting about four coats on there (one can per coat).
 

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How much for the Duplicolor,and where did you purchase it? Very interested in your results for my spring project of getting rid of my road noise.
 
Autozone.

I'll let you know how it all turns out after I get the trunk put back together along with the headliner. I used some "Great Stuff" expanding foam to fill in some dead air spaces in the trunk area and eventually will be the dead space between the rear quarter panels and the rear quarter interior trim piece. I believe this will net me the best results.
 
A little later then what I had promised but here are the pics I said I'd post. This is after about 2 coats. I ended up putting about four coats on there (one can per coat).

Are you spraying over the wires too? im j/w so are they going to be like.. molded into the rubber lining with it all? haha.
 
Some of the wires I moved off to the side and others I didn't bother trying to get around them. I didn't really focus a whole lot of spray on the wires, so they did get covered, but only lightly.
 
(95CarbonEclipse) It seems that you have used the Herculiner with success and I was wondering what you did about the non-metal padding on the floor board. I ripped up my carpet and there were hard rubber pads under each area. If you know what they are for, that would be helpful and if you know how to deal with them, that would also be helpful. Thank you for any advice.
 
The smell lasts only a short time and those pads are the stock sound deadening. The ones that are planted with near 100% of their surface area are probably fine - leave them. But if any are just kinda slapped on etc go ahead and peel 'em off. They're not helping much.
 
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