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DSMLink Fuel Map Tuning

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DKneble

15+ Year Contributor
123
0
Mar 13, 2006
Phoenix, Arizona
Just to verify my understanding, the fuel map settings (not the global or deadtime) are used only at WOT, correct?

I understand how and where I want to adjust my AFR values to in the higher RPM's under boost but what should I do about the lower RPM values to improve spool-up and driveability? Maybe give me a little torque?

Thanks
 
Is your link cable a USB (V3) or the db9 (V2)? (I think thats what its call:confused:)
 
Don't confuse WOT and open loop.

The fuel map is the open loop fuel map. While you are in open loop when your WOT, there are other times also.

The map corrections are used whenever the ECU is in open loop and whenever your in closed loop the AFR is 14.7:1 dithered. The injector corrections are always applied.
 
Just to verify my understanding, the fuel map settings (not the global or deadtime) are used only at WOT, correct?
Yes and no. I assume you're referring to the ECU->Fuel tab RPM-based sliders. If so, then yes, those are activated at wide open throttle. However, it's not always applied exactly as entered. The 2D table is automatically scaled for you to provide a 3D adjustment. The following page explains in more detail.

Fuel table adjustments

The benefit being that you get safer tunes with less "fiddling". The drawback is that you don't get direct control over each load data point yourself.

If you're looking to get direct control over everything and assuming you're already running DSMLink V2, you'll want to consider an upgrade to V3. V3 provides a function we're calling "direct access" that's basically a custom flash solution you can drop into your ECU. You can get some quick screenshots here.

V3 screenshots

We've also provided a few rescaled replacements for the timing and fuel maps at the bottom of this page.

V3 configs

The modded EVO8 table, for example, is a nice stock replacement on both 1G and 2G DSMs.

Thomas Dorris
 
Well unfortunately I cannot afford to upgrade to V3 right now :(

I am trying to get a better daily driveable tune. I have a GM maf and MAFT hooked up. 6 bolt swap and no MAP sensor currently. Also, I do not have a front o2 sensor (oringally the car was going to be a track only car but seems I am driving it more then planned). Base timing set at 5 degrees with timing pulled up top (24psi on pump gas, about 12 degrees of timing). Any ideas on anything to do to make it more driveable? ie timing adjustments/ fuel adjustments in the lower rpms. Airflow corrections?

She seems to always bog when pulling out and the 1500-3000 rpm range is always hesitant.

Would tossing on a gm map sensor and running it as a fake maf help alot? Thanks guys

Dave
 
Well unfortunately I cannot afford to upgrade to V3 right now :(

I am trying to get a better daily driveable tune. I have a GM maf and MAFT hooked up. 6 bolt swap and no MAP sensor currently. Also, I do not have a front o2 sensor (oringally the car was going to be a track only car but seems I am driving it more then planned). Base timing set at 5 degrees with timing pulled up top (24psi on pump gas, about 12 degrees of timing). Any ideas on anything to do to make it more driveable? ie timing adjustments/ fuel adjustments in the lower rpms. Airflow corrections?

She seems to always bog when pulling out and the 1500-3000 rpm range is always hesitant.

Would tossing on a gm map sensor and running it as a fake maf help alot? Thanks guys

Dave

Your problem is that you dont have a front O2, the car's daily drivability revolves around the thing. Fuel adjustments only apply to WOT open loop. Timng applies all the time, you can try bumping up timing at the 1500-3000 rpm range 3-4 degrees, but the AFR will be totally wacked out because the car has no feedback for fuel trims.
 
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