The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

dsmlink 2.5 help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

myturbo

10+ Year Contributor
445
12
Nov 28, 2008
wichita, Kansas
ok how do i set it to a 450cc injector and injector duty be and what should my knock be at or when is it bad and how do i know when to adjust timming im knew to dsmlink so please a lil help

oh and how come i did a 20psi pull and was still rich on accedent but WTF ,im gonna go with 15psi why!!!!!!!!!

and on the mbc the inlet is the ball end right because one would not work that way and

and it spins all 4 bad why and i mean all 4 all its got is mbc,dsmlink,3" turbo back exhaust no cat,aem uego wideband,real boost gage brand new even tried it on two other cars and works fine ass well ans the aem wideband


yes i do need alot of help but its my first time with dsmlink and for the lil i played with it i love it i got my rev limiter set at 7250-7500 dont member which one and my 2 step launch at 4000 but i think im gonna go down to 3500 because i dont want to break it
and im not gonna hack or modify anything because it is a 108,*** mile all orig car that once i get it tuned im gonna sell it for 4250-5500 LOL its nice

help help help LOL
 
Um...wow. That was so hard to read. Please use proper capitalization, punctuation, grammar, spelling, etc.


Have you read either of these sites? They explain how to get started with DSMlink.
1992 Talon Tsi AWD Project
howto [ECMTuning - wiki] (Tuning/Dial-in section specifically, but read the whole site)

The stock fuel settings run around 9.8:1 at WOT. This will not change until you adjust the fuel sliders in DSMlink.

The boost source goes into the end of the MBC (opposite the adjustment screw) and the wastegate hooks up to the side nipple.

Bad tires? Gravel/cinders? Not sure what you're looking for about all 4 spinning.
 
Dude, what are you doing?
Ill field what I can understand - DSMlink has a wiki page, please utilize it (for injector deadtime and globals for each size/brand).
Your duty cycle should be 80% and under by the end of a pull.
Do you have a wideband? How do you know your were rich? Most importantly, why are you doing pulls if you have no idea what you are doing? You need to get your fuel trims set up first.

Thats about all I can understand man. Read this first before you make a post back
 
Wow that was hard to read. Ss English your first language? Your going to get broad answers because you asked broad questions. More than anything you need to read and search. I'll try to answer some of your questions though. Your global and dead time should be set to these values and the fine tuned from there. baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki]. As for knock most people go for less than 3 degrees. You adjust timing when your a/f ratio is within the desired value and it is still knocking, then you can lower timing. You say you don't want to hack or modify our car because you don't want to damage anything. Well you might even be doing worse by not doing the proper research to tune correctly with dsmlink. Good luck.
 
yes i have a wide band/ and my boost is set at avrage 14.5 psi and im still rich and from all the info i got it alot better my idel is about 15 a/f ratio and my wot is about 13.0 a/f ratio but i did a 6k rpm pull and my nock went to 8 so im not done yet and i cant get my idel richer at all i want a rich idel and a wot at about 14.0 a/f ratio because its a dd and im not trying to make it real fast just a lil quicker


any good pointers anybody for a first time user ? ive got it down pretty good for the most part kinda


thanks for all the advice
 
i will in a sec but i got a prob , it wont let me log un less im going ? and what is the correct way to save it because my last one did not save

and i thought the higher the wideband # the leaner it is tell me if im wrong ?
 
did your first post say you were running 20psi on stock injectors? wow how is your motor still running. thats your problem with running lean.
 
did your first post say you were running 20psi on stock injectors? wow how is your motor still running. thats your problem with running lean.

Oh wow. Yeah. Log your IDCs. 450s with 20lbs of boost would have those squirting non-stop.

My car has no fuel mods and no tuning done to it with the stock turbo. Here's a few numbers I'm getting...
Idle 15.6
Cruise 14.8
WOT 9.4 -> Actually hit 9.0 on one good shot. Talk about rich.

Plan is to use the safc I just got to lean out WOT to about 11.
 
with your mod list I don,t understand why you are using 450,s when it says 1200cc injectors . dont keep your a/f at 13s because your looking for trouble . to lean to long to bad . that is the old saying.
 
with your mod list I don,t understand why you are using 450,s when it says 1200cc injectors . dont keep your a/f at 13s because your looking for trouble . to lean to long to bad . that is the old saying.

the 1200cc inj and all those mods are my other car, and im running 15psi on this car so if 13 a/f is lean then why should my idle be at 14.7 a/f ? that makes no sense
 
13 at wot and 14.7 at idle are totally different.

Your engine has to combat 2 things because of boost: Higher intakes temps and higher chamber pressures. At idle, the volumetric efficiency of the car is low (vacuum) and running it leaner doesn't create more heat in the cylinder that it can remove (via coolant/air/oil cooling). At WOT, you're packing a ton more air in (over 100% VE) and you now have more air, more fuel, and consequently more heat (from more combustion) to deal with.

The differences in the energy outputs are like that between a match and a large fire. The actual flame might be the same temperature, but there is a lot more energy being released from the log than the match. If your car can't get rid of all the heat, things melt... like pistons.

A richer air/fuel mixture promotes lower combustion temperatures. It's why a match burns with a yellow flame and a butane torch burns blue. So by running richer at WOT, the combustion temperatures are low enough that the pistons can stay in one solid piece.

Got that? :hmm:

EDIT: And here's a quote from wikipedia explaining why leaner mixtures burn hotter. Air-fuel ratio
Lean mixtures produce hotter combustion gases than does a stoichiometric mixture, so much so that pistons can melt as a result. Rich mixtures produces cooler combustion gases than does a stoichiometric mixture, primarily due to the excessive amount of carbon which oxidises to form carbon monoxide, rather than carbon dioxide. The chemical reaction oxidizing carbon to form carbon monoxide releases significantly less heat than the similar reaction to form carbon dioxide. (Carbon monoxide retains significant potential chemical energy. It is itself a fuel whereas carbon dioxide is not.) Lean mixtures, when consumed in an internal combustion engine, produce less power than does the stoichiometric mixture. Similarly, rich mixtures return poorer fuel efficiency than the stoichiometric mixture. (The mixture for the best fuel efficiency is slightly different from the stoichiometric mixture.)
 
i cant post a log because its on a diffrent comp,


ok my max nock now was 3.5

my max inj duty was 116%

my max timming was 44.2

@ 15 psi

according to the wideband gauge the leanest i got at wot was 11.6

mods = 15psi/dsmlink/mbc/aem wideband uego/autometer boost gauge/3" turbo back exhaust no cat/
 
i cant post a log because its on a diffrent comp,


ok my max nock now was 3.5

my max inj duty was 116%

my max timming was 44.2

@ 15 psi

according to the wideband gauge the leanest i got at wot was 11.6

mods = 15psi/dsmlink/mbc/aem wideband uego/autometer boost gauge/3" turbo back exhaust no cat/

Well, after seeing the IDC's, you should put your boost down a bit and at least get the number under 100%. No more than 85% is ideal, but that's probably around 11 psi or so.
 
Well, after seeing the IDC's, you should put your boost down a bit and at least get the number under 100%. No more than 85% is ideal, but that's probably around 11 psi or so.

well im gonna try tuning it to get the injector duty down and maybe look to find some bigger injectors i have a 255 walbro i can put in if it would be a good idea

but the injectors at the % i put according to the wideband that was at the richest part my avarge was about 91 % but needs more tuning


oh and would it be ok to just put my 1200cc injectors in or bad idea ?
 
You can tune IDC % down, but not as much as getting bigger injectors. You should be ok to put the 1200's in, but the pump might not be able to keep up, especially if it's not rewired. And if you drop in the 255lph, you'll need to also add an AFPR.

so would just the 1200's be ok or are the injector % still gonna be to high and arnt the 1200" to big ?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top