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dropped spring retainer in head

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lotta hp

Banned Member
41
0
Sep 28, 2012
A, Georgia
I was changing the springs and valve seals on my talon and dropped a valve lock in one of the oil ports in the head. I drained the oil and the valve lock did not come out. Do you guys think it's stuck in the oil pan?

Would there be a problem if I left the valve lock in there?

edit: it fell through the driver side oil port hole.
 
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There is no reason to start trying to offend people here. I can assure you that there is no way that the keeper is going to somehow squeeze it's way up somewhere into the crank some how. That is not possible. It would have to go thru the oil pump screen, oil pump, oil filter, oil filter housing, oil passages than thru the bearings into the crank. As i said, it will sit in the bottom of the pan until it either falls out when you drain the oil, or until the pan is pulled.

Im not trying to offend anyone, I just dont get why of you that are techs and do this for a living as I also do, would recommend to leave it there. Obvioulsy the oil pickup tube screen wont allow it to get sucked, but who can be 100% it went down to the lowest part of the oil pan and the baffle didn't hold it, not making it go all the way down and just by taking a corner or sudent car movement you might cause it to move around with the oil and hitting the crank and by some engine miracle getting stuck in the crank ??????
 
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To each their own, maybe I was taught different than most techs out there.

BTW, the only sure thing in life is death, who can be 200% sure that will never move and squeeze its way up the pan, getting stuck in the crank and cause catastrophic failure ???? Why not take a few hours and look for it. BECAUSE LAZY !!!! Isnt it better safe than sorry ???? Atleast thats what I would do, and I bet any PRO engine builder would say the same thing. Because there is no way to tell if the keeper came to rest in a 'safe' place, isn't really hard to recommend anything BUT LOOK FOR IT. I don't get why other "techs" say it'll be safe...

I guess the same so called auto techs here that say leave it, it will be alright; are probably the same techs that hammer the shit out of a control arm to remove the balljoint and impact gun the shit out of the wheel nuts when putting the wheels back on that I see in 99% of the shops.

Ah I know why your getting so worked up, you must just be an oil changer on an ego trip.
 
Im not trying to offend anyone, I just dont get why of you that are techs and do this for a living as I also do, would recommend to leave it there.

Because it won't hurt anything. Explain to me how a retainer is going to come up from the bottom of the pan with 4.5 quarts in it and wedge itself into the crank. Exactly, it won't.
 
Ah I know why your getting so worked up, you must just be an oil changer on an ego trip.

Im just an oil changer, LOL... Want me to post my ASE master certification, my Mercedes Benz USA certification, my McLaren certification, as well as my pro racing background and achievements ???? BTW, IN USA you don't have to be ASE certified to work at a dealer repair shop or independent repair shop.NOT IN PUERTO RICO. In Puerto Rico you have to go to a technical automotive school and get the degree, get certified by "colegio de mecanicos y tecnicos automotrices de PR' which is the equivalent of ASE here in PR, get certified by the state department, plus get certified by ASE before you work in a dealer repair shop or an independent repair shop. After all that I didnt end up at Joes Auto repair nor the Toyota dealer, I ended up at the Mercedes Benz dealer and been fixing Mercedes Benz for over 10+ years while also been active as a racer and mechanic in various pro racing teams. My mentor was a certified motorcycle mechanic and sportsbike racer who taught me well before even going to automotive school, my automotive school teacher was the mechanic of a hardcore 7sec race car, and one of my best friends is a funny car mechanic and owner of a high performance parts shop in Florida, USA and I'm the master mechanic of a road race sportsbike team. So basically Im not an oil change and brake job auto technician for you.... If the owner of the car who had the problem want to listen to you fools advice him to leave it there it will be alright, its up to him. Im just saying look for it and remove it.

Because it won't hurt anything. Explain to me how a retainer is going to come up from the bottom of the pan with 4.5 quarts in it and wedge itself into the crank. Exactly, it won't.

Can you explain to me how you are 100% sure it went to the bottom of the pan instead of been up top cause the baffle didnt let it come down all the way ??? EXACTLY...
 
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I had a turbo blow to hell on me once. Most of the parts went to the oil pan. I dropped the pan and cleaned it out when I changed the turbo.

A few months later timing belt stripped on me. I didn't know if I bent valves or not. I pulled my plugs and in #3 I seen a piece of something on top of the piston. So I was like a hell chipped a valve.

After pulling the head and seeing no bent or chipped valves I looked at the piece I found and guess what. It was a piece of the turbo that blew up on me two months (about 2'000 or more miles ago.) Prior.

I dunno how the hell that thing got there or where it was lodged for so long but thats the weirdest thing ever.

I would do your best to find it if you can. It won't take much to drop the pan and see if its there. It not a very high risk at all with the windage tray in the oil pan and the girdle with it piece on it that it will get up there IF it is in the pan. The pickup tube obvoiusly has a screen. But just being safe I'd at least do what you can to find it.

If its not that much worry to you well hey its your car. Find if you want or dont if you dont care
 
Im just an oil changer, LOL... Want me to post my ASE master certification, my Mercedes Benz USA certification, my McLaren certification, as well as my pro racing background and achievements ???? BTW, IN USA you don't have to be ASE certified to work at a dealer repair shop or independent repair shop.NOT IN PUERTO RICO. In Puerto Rico you have to go to a technical automotive school and get the degree, get certified by "colegio de mecanicos y tecnicos automotrices de PR' which is the equivalent of ASE here in PR, get certified by the state department, plus get certified by ASE before you work in a dealer repair shop or an independent repair shop. After all that I didnt end up at Joes Auto repair nor the Toyota dealer, I ended up at the Mercedes Benz dealer and been fixing Mercedes Benz for over 10+ years while also been active as a racer and mechanic in various pro racing teams. My mentor was a certified motorcycle mechanic and sportsbike racer who taught me well before even going to automotive school, my automotive school teacher was the mechanic of a hardcore 7sec race car, and one of my best friends is a funny car mechanic and owner of a high performance parts shop in Florida, USA and I'm the master mechanic of a road race sportsbike team. So basically Im not an oil change and brake job auto technician for you.... If the owner of the car who had the problem want to listen to you fools leave it there it will be alright its up to him. Im just saying look for it and remove it.



Can you explain to me how you are 100% sure it went to the bottom of the pan instead of been up top cause the baffle didnt let it come down all the way ??? EXACTLY...

You seriously need to set me up with a job dude. I'm tired of mine. I'm a very good mech and smart. 4.75gpa in hs.;)
 
You seriously need to set me up with a job dude. I'm tired of mine. I'm a very good mech and smart. 4.75gpa in hs.;)

I would suggest anyone who want to be a high class luxury technician to get ASE certified first and grow some experience before applying to a high class repair shop. I just got lucky when I was starting in the industry, cause I happened to always have various cars in my home garage wrenching them and it so happened one of my next door neighboor was the human resources manager of the Mercedes Benz dealer in Puerto Rico and offered me a job as a quality tech since at the time I wasnt certified. I got my certification and was promoted to tech after a while and been working with MB since and also been involved in racing and wrenching race machines. Just 2 weeks ago, I was called a friend is importing a Porsche GT3 road race machine to Puerto Rico and he wants me to be part of the team. I might come as a ahole here, but my background, experience, knowledge, and professional behavior has got me places most ppl here have never been, and I mean that in no offense. I might have not raced the DSM Shootout yet, but I've raced Daytona Speedway.
 
Yeah I guess certification does help. Just paper to me but high class places like/require it. I've seen some "certified" ppl that know less than me. I only have 3 years of actual mech job experience. But have been messing/working on cars for about 5.

Anyways Op find that piece.
 
Yeah I guess certification does help. Just paper to me but high class places like/require it. I've seen some "certified" ppl that know less than me. I only have 3 years of actual mech job experience. But have been messing/working on cars for about 5.

Anyways Op find that piece.

I've had a few coworkers that have just graduated UTI or Wyotech that have no clue how an engine works let alone how to diagnose electrical faults and engine misfires, etc. But the reality is if you walk to an interview been certified and 3 years experience you'll get the job vs the other guy who only has 3 years experience but not certified. In Joes Repair Shop or Toyota dealership you might get the job, but not at a Mercedes Benz, BMW, etc dealership unless you have experience and highly be certified.
 
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This happened to me. Get a telescopic magnet. Drain the oil and leave the plug out. Remove the turbo drain line. Extend the magnet and stick it in the drain hole and move it back and forth across the inside if the pan. Extract the keeper and reinstall the drain and plug. Its not rocket science fellas.
 
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