2G Drip Moulding re-finish / restore

[Justin DuBois]

This is a work in progress. Rich is trying some different techniques, and here is an example of a badly deteriorating drip molding with many many layers of a primer to replace the rubber that is long sense vaporized by extended exposure.

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[AWD-Tony]

Looks like it’s from the coating cracking and moisture getting trapped. Wonder if powder coating would be a better option. Maybe even flex seal

 

[Justin DuBois]

The rubber bonded to the metal is wider than the metal. If you strip off all the rubber and powder coat what remains, then the metal molding won't line up with the other rubber trim on the windows. The goal is to preserve as much of the existing rubber on the edges while sanding off the rust and treating as much of the exposed metal as possible.

This sample was masked off in the center part to show the untreated surface next to two different levels of primer coated molding.

The finish coat has not yet been applied to the primer sections.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Black Plastidip top coat x2

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Not as smooth as we were hoping, but way better than flakes and rust.

 

[Dericsh]

Wow, definitely way better!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Wow, definitely way better!

Looks like there is another example from others who tried plastidip

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-drip-moulding-repair.528967/post-153764176

 

[Dericsh]

I was concerned about the longevity of plastidip too, like mentioned in that thread. That’s why I was wondering about using that sem trim black. Are y’all planning to use some kind of clear over the plastidip?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Yes - Satin Clear from SEM is an idea we are looking at, and now I'm thinking about trying SEM trim black and clear... hmmm

 

[Rich_Howell]

I figured I'd chime-in here because I'm doing the trial and error on this stuff. The idea of using a clear over the top is tempting, but unless it's flexible to an extent...it will just crack and flake.

The tiny pinholes that form while the rubberized material is outgassing is the primary issue here. Clearly I have the filling-in of cracks and voids figured out, so it's a really good start...just need to get the aesthetics dialed-in.

Admittedly what I have so far is actually pretty decent, but I'm trying to get as close as I can to an OEM finish.

 

[Kryndon]

This looks promising, and it shows it's being done right.

When I tried to "fix" mine 2 years ago, all I did was chip off the loose flaking rubber, clean the moulding and spray 2 coats of plasti dip. I was in a rush and didn't really care, just wanted to hide the shining steel underneath. Well a few months later, the plasti dip peeled up since the flaking continued and forced it up. Now it's back to square one, but with some added pasti dip on top....

So for anyone reading, follow Rich's guide and properly sand and smooth out the flaking rubber and any rust, THEN prep and primer.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Just saw the test sample in person, It’s totally great! This is a huge success!

Nice job

Anybody know where to get the foam tape used on the drip moldings and glass holders?

 

[Justin DuBois]

This is the foam I’m referring to:
Narrow and wide:

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[Dericsh]

My best guess is that foam tape is something like this. At the dealer we used to just get little rectangles of it to use as padding for accessory wires and stuff. I never had a roll to actually see what brand it was or anything.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/dc/v000149491/?preselect=3293190522+3294258780

 

[bettfootball]

Does anyone have the faintest idea of how these were made? It almost seems like the metal frame was put in a mold and then the rubber was injection molded around the metal trim?

First step is re-creating is reverse engineering, and I still haven't really figured out exactly how they were made.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Does anyone have the faintest idea of how these were made? It almost seems like the metal frame was put in a mold and then the rubber was injection molded around the metal trim?

First step is re-creating is reverse engineering, and I still haven't really figured out exactly how they were made.

Seriously - This is a good question. Do you have this kind of tooling?

Sheet metal guys be like: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...drip-rails-or-wheel-opening-mouldings.964367/

 

[bettfootball]

Seriously - This is a good question. Do you have this kind of tooling?

Sheet metal guys be like: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...drip-rails-or-wheel-opening-mouldings.964367/

I do not!

I almost thought about getting a strip of thin rubber, and then melting it around the drip moulding.

I think the solution is definitely buying rubber and attaching it to the metal moulding.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Does anyone have the faintest idea of how these were made? It almost seems like the metal frame was put in a mold and then the rubber was injection molded around the metal trim?

First step is re-creating is reverse engineering, and I still haven't really figured out exactly how they were made.

I have already spoken to some about this and the metal part cannot be replicated due to costs! And im talking a 50k tooling PER side!! Pounds also btw not dollars!

I said this recently in another post somewhere about I have another idea that may work just aswel but not as costly and should be able to also be replaceable also later if needed or wear/fade/damage etc etc.

 

[bettfootball]

I have already spoken to some about this and the metal part cannot be replicated due to costs! And im talking a 50k tooling PER side!! Pounds also btw not dollars!

I said this recently in another post somewhere about I have another idea that may work just aswel but not as costly and should be able to also be replaceable also later if needed or wear/fade/damage etc etc.

Well we don't need the metal part, only the rubber

 

[red_devil]

I was concerned about the longevity of plastidip too, like mentioned in that thread. That’s why I was wondering about using that sem trim black. Are y’all planning to use some kind of clear over the plastidip?

Mine are still holding up fine. No cracking or peeling yet. If you can get the right clear then the plastidip holds up.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I didn’t locate this foam tape in any local stores. I’ll have to look online:

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Thread might be interested to know there is now a product I done that will resolve all of this so nonone ever has to worry again. Just another way to help the community out some more.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Link Bobby????

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Link Bobby????

In the freelancer section. Did not wish to take over the thread with a link hehe.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I also found it on Instagram, for any that are looking. Thanks Bobby!

 

[hellah fresh]

THIS! This is exactly what i had in mind doing.

Black Plastidip top coat x2

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Not as smooth as we were hoping, but way better than flakes and rust.