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Do High HP Cars Replace Alternators?

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PrettyBoy23

10+ Year Contributor
44
0
Jul 8, 2011
El Mirage, Arizona
Hey guys I just have a simple question. If im going to be pushing 350-400hp, am I suppose to replace my alternator with a higher output one? Or is the stock 75w alternator fine? Should I just leave it alone as long as it doesnt give me problems?

Thanks for any help, I tried looking for it but came up empty handed.
 
I don't see why you would have to upgrade. I mean unless that thing starts squeeling all the time from stress then I think it's fine.
 
I don't see why you would have to upgrade. I mean unless that thing starts squeeling all the time from stress then I think it's fine.

I just wanted to make sure, thanks for the answer. I didnt think so, but it's always best to ask and be sure.:thumb:
 
About the only time you start thinking about the alternator on these cars is when you put in a giga-watt stereo system.
 
My answer was to go with a under drive pulley kit. Well that is not really why I went that route, The main reason I did was because I did not have the stock pulleys to put on with my 6 bolt swap but I figured it will give me some slack room later on when I go for bigger numbers.
 
I raised my rev limiter to 7,800 and killed an alternator in a couple weeks... Granted, it was old to begin with, but I think the higher rpms aided in the death of both that and my power steering pump. Consider budgeting a replacement in so that you're safe down the line.

I don't see why you would have to upgrade. I mean unless that thing starts squeeling all the time from stress then I think it's fine.
I just wanted to make sure, thanks for the answer. I didnt think so, but it's always best to ask and be sure.:thumb:

Don't jump on the first answer you get on the forums. Do some personal research to back things up. Who knows more about a higher horsepower car and its' problems, a n/t guy or someone who's been there and done that?
 
Unless you have a reason to upgrade or swap your Alternator, don't be doing it. Do you require more amperage? Then get a different unit.

This is a weird thread. Are you really knockin' the N/T guy? It doesn't take someone who's been around the block - it takes someone with common sense to establish that 350-400whp does not necessitate an upgraded alternator.

btw, 98GSXin, I'm not following you around and harassing ya. Apparently we just enjoy the same types of threads.
 
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My answer was to go with a under drive pulley kit. Well that is not really why I went that route, The main reason I did was because I did not have the stock pulleys to put on with my 6 bolt swap but I figured it will give me some slack room later on when I go for bigger numbers.

Do not ever put on a stock, 6 bolt crank pulley. They will separate and might mess things up. Use a good aftermarket pulley. I know you stated that you have an underdrive pulley currently on...make sure you get one that is balanced and from a reputable company. If not, it will kill your engine in a relatively short time.
 
Do not ever put on a stock, 6 bolt crank pulley. They will separate and might mess things up. Use a good aftermarket pulley. I know you stated that you have an underdrive pulley currently on...make sure you get one that is balanced and from a reputable company. If not, it will kill your engine in a relatively short time.

If you have a good stock crank pulley amd actually inspect it while doing maintenance then you can use it with no issues. Some of the info thrown out there on this forum lately.:ohdamn:
 
If you have a good stock crank pulley amd actually inspect it while doing maintenance then you can use it with no issues. Some of the info thrown out there on this forum lately.:ohdamn:

Thanks man, will kep that in mind. I just wanted to make sure.
 
If you have a good stock crank pulley amd actually inspect it while doing maintenance then you can use it with no issues. Some of the info thrown out there on this forum lately.:ohdamn:

true. for those that keep an eye on them fairly frequently, can catch it before it gets bad. To eliminate the potential problem, just put a better one on once and for all. Not disagreeing with you, just stating that the stock one can seperate, as it did with me.

In my case, i just bought the car and had less than 7k miles on it when it went and, had the cam shaft seals, timing belt, and water pump replaced and it was not noticed as going bad even when the head gasket was replaced as well. Maybe just bad luck on my part. Never know but, it just burred into the plastic and did not do any noticable damage. Replaced it with a fluid dampner and problem solved for good. Kinda like the balance shaft issue. Some have it and some do not worry about it and the car still runs fine for a long time. Go figure.

The info I put on here is accurate. Not saying it will happen to everyone but, why keep replacing the pulley when it tries to fail and just put another one on that is not engineered the same and elimenates the potential problem. :rolleyes:
 
It really depends on your setup. You simply need to see if your voltage holds steady through your logs. For someone it may, and for others it may not. If you have multiple pumps and misc accessories that draw a lot of current, you may need to upgrade. Again, It really depends on your setup. A lot of people rewire there stock alt's with bigger gauge wire and have been fine with just that. Just check it out first and see how it goes.
 
It was brought to my attention that I was jacked up with part of my comment previously. I apologize publicly for offense.
The fact remains that It is an easy part to keep an eye on. There is no reason to replace a factory crank pulley unless it is failing or your particular setup requirements deem it a wise move. Just inspect them when you do an oil change or more often if you feel the need and replace if needed when failing or if you decide you want a fancy one for one reason or another.
 
If you want to use the stock pulley, know that it will fail by seperating at some point in time in the future. I would recommend using a dampner that is balanced and designed so that this will not ever happen by getting a one piece dampner for the crank pulley. Tenn is correct as well about using the stock one and keeping an eye on it at oil changes and what have you. Always do regular maintanence on you vehicle, dsm or otherwise and be aware of any problems that can occur through routine maintanence. I would, personally, use a better pulley to fix the problem once and for all.
 
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If you want to use the stock pulley, know that it will fail by seperating at some point in time in the future. I would recommend using a dampner that is balanced and designed so that this will not ever happen by getting a one piece dampner for the crank pulley. Tenn is correct as well about using the stock one and keeping an eye on it at oil changes and what have you. Always do regular maintanence on you vehicle, dsm or otherwise and be aware of any problems that can occur through routine maintanence. I would, personally, use a better pulley to fix the problem once and for all.

Not trying to be an ass but that is like saying oh don't use your (insert vital organ here). It will fail sometime in the future. Sure it will, that is the point in keeping an eye on things and noticing when there are symptoms of a failing part. Every part can and will at some time or another. That isn't really reasoning that will change any minds. I have a stock 6 bolt pulley that hasn't failed yet through 3 motors now. (one I found it on, my 1st motor and now the current one).
 
Not trying to be an ass but that is like saying oh don't use your (insert vital organ here). It will fail sometime in the future. Sure it will, that is the point in keeping an eye on things and noticing when there are symptoms of a failing part. Every part can and will at some time or another. That isn't really reasoning that will change any minds. I have a stock 6 bolt pulley that hasn't failed yet through 3 motors now. (one I found it on, my 1st motor and now the current one).

I had one fail so there you go. I said what I did cause of the inherent flaw of the dampner. It will separate in time and is a problem. Some take longer than others depending on a number of factors. You can argue this all day and it is not going to change the outcome. FACT, the stock pulley IS a 2 piece and will fail in time by separating. This is a known fact. How long it lasts depends on how it is used IE, how many miles, heat cycles and so on and I work with these things in my regular job on the heavy duty machines. Some parts fail faster on the same type of machine....why????hard to say, depends on how it is used.

Good for you and Tenn that you like to use the stock pulley and it has not failed or you have noticed it trying to fail and fixed it before it became a problem. CHEERS. For those of us that have had it separate, it sucks and it does and will happen based on useage and is why people have had theirs replaced.

There are pulleys that are one piece pulleys that will not fail in this way. IF they fail another way, it is not by separation and can only be due to the malfuction of the engine. Same as the machines I work with.

In time, EVERY part will fail at some point in time but, the stock pulley will fail faster than the one I have on mine now.

Tired of being nice about this. You and Tenn do not seem to grasp the concept that the stock pulley can fail and a one piece will not fail in the same fashion as I pointed out earlier. My car lived in a hot climate year round. May have been a factor but you 2 acting like idiots is just stupid with your train of thought that proved NOTHING! I am done with this. Believe what you want to

I stick by my arguement that the stock pulley will fail before a better one piece design will due to the stocks inherent flaw of being a 2 piece and has failed on a number of cars including mine. :notgood::nono:

^ Thank You!!!!

appreciate the stupidity you have shown after the last text you wrote. very sportsman of you.....:nono:
 
I had one fail so there you go. I said what I did cause of the inherent flaw of the dampner. It will separate in time and is a problem. Some take longer than others depending on a number of factors. You can argue this all day and it is not going to change the outcome. FACT, the stock pulley IS a 2 piece and will fail in time by separating. This is a known fact. How long it lasts depends on how it is used IE, how many miles, heat cycles and so on and I work with these things in my regular job on the heavy duty machines. Some parts fail faster on the same type of machine....why????hard to say, depends on how it is used.

Good for you and Tenn that you like to use the stock pulley and it has not failed or you have noticed it trying to fail and fixed it before it became a problem. CHEERS. For those of us that have had it separate, it sucks and it does and will happen based on useage and is why people have had theirs replaced.

There are pulleys that are one piece pulleys that will not fail in this way. IF they fail another way, it is not by separation and can only be due to the malfuction of the engine. Same as the machines I work with.

In time, EVERY part will fail at some point in time but, the stock pulley will fail faster than the one I have on mine now.

Tired of being nice about this. You and Tenn do not seem to grasp the concept that the stock pulley can fail and a one piece will not fail in the same fashion as I pointed out earlier. My car lived in a hot climate year round. May have been a factor but you 2 acting like idiots is just stupid with your train of thought that proved NOTHING! I am done with this. Believe what you want to

I stick by my arguement that the stock pulley will fail before a better one piece design will due to the stocks inherent flaw of being a 2 piece and has failed on a number of cars including mine. :notgood::nono:



appreciate the stupidity you have shown after the last text you wrote. very sportsman of you.....:nono:

I digress your right Im wrong BLA BLA BLA. There is nothing wrong with the factory damper. Which we discussed in PM. Not everyone has the money or the need for a trick DAMPER Yes I made it a point to specify that its a damper because that seems to be very important to you to specify to me.

Its such a horrible design that the same basic design is on many makes and models of cars equating to MILLIONS of cars and trucks using them. It fails TYPICALLY after years of use ALL parts fail eventually.

Op if you have the money for a high end damper then go for it. If not I would get rid of the underdrive pulley and get a FACTORY damper though.
EDIT..... I mixed another poster with you on the underdrive pully
cliffkemp..... Im done. I wont reply to you or your rubbish any more.
 
I am the one running a underdrive. I also am on a Balancer shaft delete. I did do the research and know it will be hell on my bottom end. Since the car is not a daily driver and will winter in the shop I figure I will be in the bottom end doing new rod and main bearings atleast once a year. Not a combination I would recommend but it is what I had when it went together.
 
This is a weird thread. Are you really knockin' the N/T guy? It doesn't take someone who's been around the block - it takes someone with common sense to establish that 350-400whp does not necessitate an upgraded alternator.

btw, 98GSXin, I'm not following you around and harassing ya. Apparently we just enjoy the same types of threads.

I've noticed you popping up everywhere I go too haha. No worries. Differing opinions make for good conversation.

I wasn't trying to imply that because I fit his hp goals that I knew everything. And I wasn't trying to knock the n/t guy simply because he was n/t. I just wanted to warn the OP not to jump to conclusions because he made a response immediately accepting the first comment as fact.

I recently killed an alternator and felt sharing that experience would help out this thread. The hp/rpms probably aided in that, so I was basically preaching the maintenance before modification message.
 
dont buy cheap ones, keep them cool and oil free.

By the way I did the saturn alt swap and I have been really happy with it.

Drew said it all. Don't go cheap and more importantly keep it oil free and cool. One big reason they fail so much on the higher hp cars is due to the high heat from the manifolds. I know I'll be wrapping mine soon due to them being a PIA to replace.
 
I would replace the belt with a decent one though. Not a DSM, but when i built my Trans Am, the power at the crank actually made the crank spin faster than the belt could keep up. at WOT, the battery gauges dropped.... That was using a Gatorback belt...
 
My alternator failure after the hydraulic pump had a small leak and a few drops of oil fell on it.

Buy a new alternator, I removed the power steering system and ready ... many races and nothing has happened
 
An oe alternator is all you need. A reman with oe parts by a decent rebuilder is what I have now. . . If you're logging, then you'll see if it's acting up. It's that simple. Yes, I burned mine up with my twinscroll tubular manifold and exhaust pipe being so close to it; it had 150K miles on it. But the new one is doing fine.
 
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