Vladimir
15+ Year Contributor
- 276
- 34
- Apr 28, 2010
-
Winthrop harbor,
Illinois
So long story short I've been out of DSM world for over 10 years. I had a 1991 1g tsi sitting in my barn that I originally bought for parts and for a good 12 years or so it was collecting dust and spider webs . I decided since I still have the title for it, and all I remember It needed was a transmission rebuild I can actually get back into DSM world fairly easy. I moved out 2 other forgotten project cars out of the way and cleaned out a thousand pounds of leaves tree branches with opossum or racoons nests to finally get to it. Popped the hood and and realized I can't even see where the engine is at, because of all the leaves and dust, etc.... Got the leaf blower and a good old shop vac, cleaned it all up, to realize that half of the wires were chewed up by critters and the other half was oxidized and corroded.
Got all the schematics printed off and went to work . Took me a good day or two to get all the wiring back to where I got my fuel pump and all the ignition related wiring sorted. Thanks good there was probably almost no fuel in the gas tank, cause that will be a mess to clean out that residue.Change the little sock filter on the pump cause I had a spare and poured to gallons of fresh gas in her. Of course because this is just a test run I did not go deep into replacing all the filters/gaskets/belts etc .... I just wanted to see if it starts.
Put a good battery and her and started to crank. After about 20-30 seconds started hearing signs of combustion, but very incomplete. Got my noid lights and spark tester to see if I'm getting pulse. I got great pulse on everything surprisingly. Put my engine in TDC and recheck the timing marks, cause chances are it could have skipped a tooth from a weak hydraulic tensioner that's been sitting for 12+ years, timing marks are all good. Decided to hell with it I'll crank some more maybe the rings are dry still and it's just a little low on compression. After about 2 minutes cranking, nothing. I pulled the spark plugs and noticed they are all soaked in fuel along with the combustion chambers. I did a compression test and got a range from 130 to 140 all across. So I disabled the ignition and cranked the car over with throttle all the way down for a good minute. Got a good tea spoon of engine oil in each cylinder . Cleaned the plugs and put everything back. Crank.........no start, crank again......no start .
This is a weird case where you can have injector pulse, spark, good compression and timing, but your car still doesn't start. I quickly thought that maybe I got the CAS wiring wrong and it's reading 180 over, but that wasn't the case. Said to hell with it I'll just crank some more and see what happens, about 2 minutes later I realized that only one of my exhaust manifold runners is getting warm and the rest are cold. I said ain't no way, I got fuel in every cylinder, wtf. I decided to pull the plugs again just to see they are all soaked in fuel again. And then I dawned on me, I've seen this happen before to my CRV. I took the rail off and looked at the injectors, and the 3 of them got completely gummed up, 1 for cylinder 3 was only gummed up 50 percent. So it still sorta kinda tried to do it's job. All that old fuel in the rail dusted up and all the flakes went into injectors. (Which I knew I had to address at some point, like I said, I just wanted to see if the car starts even for a second). So I decided to post this as a good example, that it can look like there is everything there for the car to run, but it actually wouldn't run. The injectors were flooding the car due to not spraying the fuel, they just leaked the fuel as I cranked, until they flooded the cylinders, it is very important that they spray, not leak etc. MAF and ambient/etc temp readings are also very important but I had nothing wrong there...
So to clean my injectors I decided to stop at WM and get my self a nice heavy duty spray bottle from the garden department for 7.99, stole a 9v battery from my kids toy, grabbed a 6 inch long fuel hose, along with alligator clips, tire valve and an old broken case 12v Milwaukee battery, to which I hooked up this old harbor freight bicycle tire pump. Drilled a hole in the bottle, pulled a valve through it. Put Teflon tape around the threaded portion of the bottle, poured carb cleaner and fuel injector cleaner in it and went to work. The system hold up to 25psi by the way, might hold more, but I didn't want to F around and find out. Cleaned the injectors, and now the car starts, but I don't want to run it, cause that timing belt is in horrible shape. Gotta fix it first.
Here is a video of my DIY injector cleaner system, I hope it can help someone in need. Cause it's super easy to make and you can see injector flow, spray pattern, volume etc... you can also convert it and make a brake pressure bleeder if you buy a cap with a fitting that you can attach to your master cylinder.
Sorry about the spelling by the way. Sometimes I'll type without my glasses and don't realize that autocorrect has changed the words. But I can't go back now to fix them
Got all the schematics printed off and went to work . Took me a good day or two to get all the wiring back to where I got my fuel pump and all the ignition related wiring sorted. Thanks good there was probably almost no fuel in the gas tank, cause that will be a mess to clean out that residue.Change the little sock filter on the pump cause I had a spare and poured to gallons of fresh gas in her. Of course because this is just a test run I did not go deep into replacing all the filters/gaskets/belts etc .... I just wanted to see if it starts.
Put a good battery and her and started to crank. After about 20-30 seconds started hearing signs of combustion, but very incomplete. Got my noid lights and spark tester to see if I'm getting pulse. I got great pulse on everything surprisingly. Put my engine in TDC and recheck the timing marks, cause chances are it could have skipped a tooth from a weak hydraulic tensioner that's been sitting for 12+ years, timing marks are all good. Decided to hell with it I'll crank some more maybe the rings are dry still and it's just a little low on compression. After about 2 minutes cranking, nothing. I pulled the spark plugs and noticed they are all soaked in fuel along with the combustion chambers. I did a compression test and got a range from 130 to 140 all across. So I disabled the ignition and cranked the car over with throttle all the way down for a good minute. Got a good tea spoon of engine oil in each cylinder . Cleaned the plugs and put everything back. Crank.........no start, crank again......no start .
This is a weird case where you can have injector pulse, spark, good compression and timing, but your car still doesn't start. I quickly thought that maybe I got the CAS wiring wrong and it's reading 180 over, but that wasn't the case. Said to hell with it I'll just crank some more and see what happens, about 2 minutes later I realized that only one of my exhaust manifold runners is getting warm and the rest are cold. I said ain't no way, I got fuel in every cylinder, wtf. I decided to pull the plugs again just to see they are all soaked in fuel again. And then I dawned on me, I've seen this happen before to my CRV. I took the rail off and looked at the injectors, and the 3 of them got completely gummed up, 1 for cylinder 3 was only gummed up 50 percent. So it still sorta kinda tried to do it's job. All that old fuel in the rail dusted up and all the flakes went into injectors. (Which I knew I had to address at some point, like I said, I just wanted to see if the car starts even for a second). So I decided to post this as a good example, that it can look like there is everything there for the car to run, but it actually wouldn't run. The injectors were flooding the car due to not spraying the fuel, they just leaked the fuel as I cranked, until they flooded the cylinders, it is very important that they spray, not leak etc. MAF and ambient/etc temp readings are also very important but I had nothing wrong there...
So to clean my injectors I decided to stop at WM and get my self a nice heavy duty spray bottle from the garden department for 7.99, stole a 9v battery from my kids toy, grabbed a 6 inch long fuel hose, along with alligator clips, tire valve and an old broken case 12v Milwaukee battery, to which I hooked up this old harbor freight bicycle tire pump. Drilled a hole in the bottle, pulled a valve through it. Put Teflon tape around the threaded portion of the bottle, poured carb cleaner and fuel injector cleaner in it and went to work. The system hold up to 25psi by the way, might hold more, but I didn't want to F around and find out. Cleaned the injectors, and now the car starts, but I don't want to run it, cause that timing belt is in horrible shape. Gotta fix it first.
Here is a video of my DIY injector cleaner system, I hope it can help someone in need. Cause it's super easy to make and you can see injector flow, spray pattern, volume etc... you can also convert it and make a brake pressure bleeder if you buy a cap with a fitting that you can attach to your master cylinder.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Sorry about the spelling by the way. Sometimes I'll type without my glasses and don't realize that autocorrect has changed the words. But I can't go back now to fix them
