Dejon Cold Air Box

[emoguitarboy]

Hey,

I noticed that Dejon is no longer marketing their cold air box. I was wondering if anyone else sells these or if I could borrow one from a local to make a template. (Matt I'm looking your way on this one)

 

[matthewdesigns]

The guys up at Turbo Garage in Denver sell them. You can sample mine, though. Next time I have the intake off for a leak test, I'll pull it and trace it for you.

Oh, and thanks for the love regarding my self-destructing compressor wheel. I'm hoping the IC caught the bits that flew off I guess I'll be pulling it off to check that.

 

[tsitalon03]

Is that turbo garage a store or do they also have a website.......... I need one too.

 

[emoguitarboy]

Yep Turbo Garage - Your Performance Headquarters!

It works real well if you switch to a FMIC and use the air ram from the original place that the air director for the SMIC goes.

 

[kenamond]

I didn't see a cold air intake on their site. Am I just blind? Also, do you know if it works with an SMIC and K&N FIPK G2? I've stared at things a bit and can't see an easy solution to a cold-air intake with that setup, because the UICP (Dejon) and filter are so close together at the left side of the filter. I'd need something with a fairly complicated shape to segregate the air filter from the engine bay. And I'm seeing 90+° IATs when it's 70°F outside during 3rd gear pulls.

Need...more...(cheap)...lb/min!

 

[matthewdesigns]

I didn't see a cold air intake on their site. Am I just blind? Also, do you know if it works with an SMIC and K&N FIPK G2? I've stared at things a bit and can't see an easy solution to a cold-air intake with that setup, because the UICP (Dejon) and filter are so close together at the left side of the filter. I'd need something with a fairly complicated shape to segregate the air filter from the engine bay. And I'm seeing 90+° IATs when it's 70°F outside during 3rd gear pulls.

Need...more...(cheap)...lb/min!

^^^ Yes please

What I got from Turbo Garage is a cold air box that blocks air from the engine bay, not a CAI that drops into the stock SMIC location, because I run a SMIC, too. It bolts between the MAS and the fuse box to make a space behind the headlight. Here's the page it's on...8th item down: Turbo Garage - Your DSM Performance Headquarters! . All you have to do is trim a tab for proper fit. I ended up putting some 2" diameter foam pipe insulation along the top and bottom edges, and needed to tape it in place to keep it tight against the inside of the hood.

Pics from website:

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I removed a little cover behind the side marker light, through the inner fender, to draw a little more air in from that side. I've also played around with routing air into that space through the front facia, but have not come up with anything effective yet.

I've only done one temperature comparison, and on a mid-50's night, the temp at the MAF was 8* higher while driving, about 25* higher while idling.

 

[emoguitarboy]

I didn't see a cold air intake on their site.

Matt gave you the link.

The following is what I was talking about:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/195667-diy-ram-air-duct-cold-air-intake.html

It only works if you you have a FMIC, so sorry Matt, don't think it will work. Maybe we can find a way then post it as a how to. Oh and on a side note, you don't have to make the intake from fiberglass, you can make it out of venting material from Home Depot.

 

[Sinclair159]

are there any vendors that make the Shield for a 1g... i like that and would for sure get one at that price...

 

[matthewdesigns]

Yeah, I tried running a duct up from the fogmount location on that side to the filter box. That didn't work, so the extra duct for my SMIC ended up there. I have not gone as far as cutting the panel below the filter, though. Perhaps something in that spot. It's just tight in that corner with a SMIC installed.

 

[kenamond]

Matt gave you the link.

The following is what I was talking about:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/195667-diy-ram-air-duct-cold-air-intake.html

It only works if you you have a FMIC, so sorry Matt, don't think it will work. Maybe we can find a way then post it as a how to. Oh and on a side note, you don't have to make the intake from fiberglass, you can make it out of venting material from Home Depot.

I initially intended to make my own until I started looking at the situation. I wonder if the turbo garage kit is just cut for the stock UICP. If so, it's certainly different with a 2-1/4" Dejon UICP. The stock pipe hugs the body and has a flat spot for the stock filter box, and it kinda looks like the cutout is made for the stocker.

I think I just need to go out with some stiff cardboard and see if I can do it with paper first...then try to apply that to a sheet of aluminum.

Thanks guys!

 

[always_broken]

Someone should get a 3" or 4" ss pipe and have one custom bent so that it will be just like having a heater duct from the duct in the 98 eclipse bumpers up to the air filter. Then have the guy weld the pipe to the metal.

 

[wret]

I initially intended to make my own until I started looking at the situation. I wonder if the turbo garage kit is just cut for the stock UICP. If so, it's certainly different with a 2-1/4" Dejon UICP. The stock pipe hugs the body and has a flat spot for the stock filter box, and it kinda looks like the cutout is made for the stocker.

I think I just need to go out with some stiff cardboard and see if I can do it with paper first...then try to apply that to a sheet of aluminum.

Thanks guys!

You could make it work with the UICP in the stock location. You would get a lot of the benefit by isolating your intake air from the hot air in the engine area. You would not get much benefit from the ram air part of the mod unless you could seal the box around the UICP.

Here's the next gen air box I made.

 

[Gamble97]

Do you need any extra bolts or anything? Does it come with the rubber trim?
Also, does this really drop intake temps? I will buy one if it works.

 

[wret]

does this really drop intake temps?

Absolutely. How much depends on how well you isolate the intake air. It is well known the underhood temperatures are much higher than outside air. I don't think you can find a stock intake system anymore that allows air from the engine bay to reach the intake.

 

[Gamble97]

So if I do this and get a heatshield for my manifold it should drop my intake temps down to where they should be. In the summer they get over 100*
Is this a good idea or just a bandaid to another problem I may have?

 

[wret]

Anything you can do to lower intake air temperature is a plus. There is a nearly infinite source of cooler air available only a few inches away. USE IT!

 

[Gamble97]

Gee, thanks for making me spend more money.

 

[kenamond]

I definitely want to do it. Even when ambient temps are 70°F, I still get IATs of 95°F, and that automatically pulls one degree of timing advance...and results in hotter intake charge, which is never good.

Looking at the cutout in that picture at the corner...is that for the stock UICP? It certainly doesn't look like it would work without modification; the UICP is 2.25" above the frame rail.

Anyway, like I said before...I need to try it with cardboard and see what happens.

As for price, a sheet of aluminum and some foam weather stripping is dirt cheap. You decide how much your time is worth.

 

[romeen]

I didn't see a cold air intake on their site. Am I just blind? Also, do you know if it works with an SMIC and K&N FIPK G2? I've stared at things a bit and can't see an easy solution to a cold-air intake with that setup, because the UICP (Dejon) and filter are so close together at the left side of the filter. I'd need something with a fairly complicated shape to segregate the air filter from the engine bay. And I'm seeing 90+° IATs when it's 70°F outside during 3rd gear pulls.

Need...more...(cheap)...lb/min!

I too am running a SMIC and tried various methods to make an air filter isolation barrier (for lack of a better term). I ended up using plastic because it is so much easier to work with. I kept on test fitting then trimming over and over until I got it to where the top edge makes contact with the closed hood all the way around. I got the basic shape as close as I could then attached some trim (from the hatch area of a 1G) around the perimeter of the barrier to conform to and fill in the subtle contours. Anyway, here are some pictures showing how I got around the problem of the UICP.

 

[kenamond]

Thanks for the pics romeen. That looks more like what I was expecting. How much of a pain is it to do a boost leak test? I have a Dejon steel intake pipe, so it's not very flexible to shove out of the way of the compressor inlet. Also, my K&N FIPK is wider...not that this would affect the custom airbox, but it makes everything tighter (it's wider and longer than what you have). I was thinking today that I might try to do this with self-expanding foam...that liquid goo that expands and then hardens. I may make a mess of things, then cut the big gob out in sections, trim them to kind of thin panels that will slot in around the UICP and contours of the sheet metal, then I can mate that into a simpler piece of aluminum or plastic. There's a tech article using corrugated cardboard and skewers to capture the hood profile...I'll probably do that to get the rough shape of the panels, then line the edge with a foam trim piece like what you did. It aught to be a fun project.

I'm still not sure where I'll suck the air from. I'm hoping I can cut a hole in front of the UICP hole in the frame and mod the plastic duct that connects the bumper cover to the SMIC. Then I could run some flexible pipe from the frame hole to the duct hole and get the air just upwind of the SMIC with a ram air effect. I have to look and see if there's anything in between or if I'd run into anything structural.

Don't know if that made any sense.

Thanks again!

 

[romeen]

No problem Mack. Hopefully you and others will find it usefull.

When doing a boost leak test I just remove the intake pipe completely. Of course that means removing the barrier first but it only takes a few minutes (literally about 3-4 minutes).

I understand what you are saying about the oval shape of the K&N. I imagine it comes very close to the UICP so that may be a challenge but I'm sure you'll be able to engineer a solution.

I too initially got the idea from wret's (props to Ron ) tech article using the cardboard and skewers. This gave me the rough contour. I then rubbed grease (just because that's what was at hand at the time) along the top edge of the cardboard template and shut the hood, opened it and looked to see where the grease had and hadn't transferred to identify high/low spots. I did this repeatedly until I had uniform contact all the way around. I then removed about 1/4" all the way around to account for the thickness of the trim. Since I used plastic it was extremely easy to cut, shave and trim using a Dremel. This may seem like overkill to some but I have OCD tendencies.

What I really wanted to do was remove the snorkel from the stock airbox and attach that to a custom box that would completely enclose the air filter thus pulling cool air from under the L.F. quarter panel or wherever the stock box pulls from. Unfortunately my stock airbox has gone missing.

I don't completely understand how you want to use the expanding foam but I can tell you from personal experience that that stuff is very messy and nearly impossible to clean up once it hardens.

 

[kenamond]

What I really wanted to do was remove the snorkel from the stock airbox and attach that to a custom box that would completely enclose the air filter thus pulling cool air from under the L.F. quarter panel or wherever the stock box pulls from. Unfortunately my stock airbox has gone missing.

That hole in the fender seems a bit small. There's some kind of plastic insert, but I don't know how hard it would be to remove. I was also wondering if I could mod my stock airbox to work with the K&N (I haven't lost mine ). No clue if the filter is WAY too big or not.

I don't completely understand how you want to use the expanding foam but I can tell you from personal experience that that stuff is very messy and nearly impossible to clean up once it hardens.

It's not very well thought out, I admit. But I'd cover the UICP and frame with sticky kitchen wrap (Seran wrap?) then build up a very crude dam out of cardboard. Then I'd pour the goo in it and let it fill in all the nooks and crannies around the UICP and frame. Then I'd (somehow) get it off, cut it into two or three pieces off the UICP. Then I'd shave it down to make a neat set of pieces so that the walls were smooth/non-ugly and the top was flat. Then all of that would stay in the car, and I'd build a normal dam like yours to sit on top with foam trim on the top and bottom sealing to the hood on top and foam underneath. Think of it as the foundation of a house made out of cinderblock (that'd be the foam) and the superstructure (2x4 lumber) sitting on top (that'd be the plastic or aluminum sheet dam).

If I can get the stuff around the UICP to have an "underneath" piece and then one or two "on top" pieces, then I'd remove the upper piece(s) and be able to pull the UICP if needed. That way, the rest of the "foundation" could stay in the car, maybe held in place with RTV or something.

Or I'll do something completely different.

 

[always_broken]

If someone runs a duct from the bumper up to the air filter through the icp passage. Won't the custom air box y'all made get blown off from all the wind? I mean the hood seals the top and you got your box sealing the sides, so where does that extra air go? Air filter can't suck all that up, or can it?

I have 2 air filters, the ebay 3" with the maf adapter, and a K&N oval filter. The ebay looks a little restrictive because of the ID and maf adapter, but my K&N has a punture in it from a tbolt clamp. I'd run the K&N because it looks like it will suck a lot more in, but I don't want any debris getting in also because of the hole. What would you guys do?

 

[tlikethedrink]

wrets write ups are awsome for this... both the box, and the plumbing where the stock SMIC used to be. its all good tho. ive seen some made of beer boxes, tape and foam .
aluminum looks so much cleaner.

i dont think routing a duct to the box could blow it off, less of a chance if its alum'.

 

[p1s70np0w3r]

You could make a custom one or like the ones above.

Is there any links for those?