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Resolved Cylinder head won't come off

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wicked98gsx

10+ Year Contributor
139
0
Feb 17, 2012
Middlesex, North Carolina
I have searched, watched videos, bought and read both the haynes and chilton manuals....My head will NOT come off the block and yes all the head studs are removed, timing belt removed. What am I missing? It wont budge and when I shake the head to maybe wiggle it loose.... the entire engine and trans move with it. Please help. pics below.

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^Edit: I didn't even think about that intake bracket (I left mine off) good call.

Take a rubber mallet and hit upwards all around the cylinder head. There are dowels that also secure the head onto the block. Wiggling won't help too much, but sharp impacts with a soft rubber mallet may help get it loose.
 
I believe there is some spots on the block and head where you can use a pry bar. DO NOT USE a prybar on where the head and block decks meet. Right under the exhaust studs.


I forgot anout the intake manifold bracket myself and yes it can cause the issue you are having. Just loosen the 14mm bolt on the back of the block.
 
That bracket will be 2) 14mm bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold, and 1) 14mm bolt to the back of the block. It's essentially a triangle. There may be a bunch of black rubber boost lines connected to a "junction" on this bracket also like all the 1g's have.
 
Simple solution, quit being a little girl and pull it off...
 
You have a vacuum hose still conected to the back of the intake manifold as well, not the source of your problem but you should probably take care of it. You should also look at the bracket on the front of the block, I don't think it should matter but I always take mine off when pulling the head.

Put the exhaust mani back on (you dont need to put every nut on, just a few) and use a pry bar, a hammer, or even your hands on bottom of that, you will gain more leverage.
 
All of you who said the bracket were right. And also the little vac line tip saved me a trip to the tuning bin. Its off now with a little help from a pry bar and the intake mani. Thank you to all that commented so fast...

And I wasnt being a little girl a bout it LOL... that shit wouldn't budge!

Again... Thanks for the help.
 
BTW, that head has been rebuilt or been to a machine shop before. I see a heat tab suck on the head to the left side of the thermastat housing mount.

The center is melted out, it it has been 240* or hotter.

All the brown goop in the water jacket is stop leak.
 
Not sure about it being to a machine shop before. .. I eish I knew. But im back for more block questions and I didnt want to start a new thread for this


Head is back with 0 issues and all pretty and clean snd looking so close to new its a little scary... now I have a block timing area question... is the lower timing area cealed from the elements? I know the lower timing cover is there to protect the timing belt and important parts to not get damaged from any foreign objects... well I want to clean it the best I can. So can I use a degreaser or brake parts cleaner to spray all in yhat area to clean it?
 
Ok so I just recently did the head gasket on my gsx and Im running into a major fluid mixing issue. Now I tried to do a compression test to verify everything was good but my first test on the 4th cylinder went straight to 90psi. then I tried again and it was at 120. each time it is building up pressure... well I started the car and it ran like crap for a second... cleared up and then I heard water dripping. I have oil/water mixing and pouring out from the center of the turbo where the V-band, coolant and oil lines all connect. No oil is coming from the exhaust nor am I getting white smoke from it either like it was when I blew the HG.

All cylinders are dry, plugs are dry, Head Gasket was put on correctly and not upside down or backwards. Yes this is an eBay 16g. I am looking to replace it but I just want to get opinions on this problem first. Also when I started the car and rev'd it a little, it sounded like the turbo was "screeching" like metal on metal but it was only when a little throttle was given. It didn't make the noise under idle.

I know I should replace the sh*tty eBay crap turbo with a real one... but can the oil and water be mixing it that area of the turbo?
 
Pull the turbo off and inpect. My crappy flea bay 16 turbo had 2 holes for oil (top and bottom of turbo) and 2 holes for coolant (the sides of it). Turns out they were all connected to eachother and just plugged the 2 coolant holes and ran with it just with oil. (As you take it off and inspect it you might as well as get a new one because my shitty ebay turbo lasted less than 500 miles :thumb:)
 
You probably missed those plugs like RS said, inspect everything and do yourself a favor and replace the turbo now. Get a 14b if you have to.
 
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