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Cyclone Manifold Gasket Needed!!!

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GstStang

15+ Year Contributor
54
1
Nov 16, 2007
Mira Loma, California
I have been looking around the site for a while searching for the Cyclone manifold gaskets and thought I finally found them at jnztuning.net ROFL but when I emailed them about it they said they had recieved their last order for them last year and are no longer selling them :( I DO NOT WANT TO GET INTO WHICH MANIFOLD IS BETTER 1G OR CYCLONE but just want to know if anyone knows where else to get them? or am i better off trying to make one? I was also wondering where i can get the silenoids to make it work properly?
 
They are no longer available. You're only option is to attempt to make one yourself or find somebody that makes custom gaskets. You can use almost any vacuum solenoid. The fuel pressure solenoid is the most commonly used. You also need a vacuum reservoir, JNZ still sells those. You also need some way to trigger the solenoid.
 
i have that cyclone manifold on my car, i hate it, i left it on there when we installed the motor and we tryed doin different things to make it work right , at this point im gonna jus take it off an put the stock one
 
The solenoid or the vacuum reservoir? The solenoid you could probably get for free or very cheap from somebody on the forum. I don't have the number for the reservoir, but the guys at JNZ know what you need. What are you planning on using to activate the solenoid?
 
Did the OP ever find gaskets that would fit anywhere? I need to get mine on, but after teh cam swap and alky install in single digit temps i'm a little discouraged to go at the manifold until it's warm out.

To the person who had a problem with theirs: did you ever try and use something to actuate it, or did you run it as a single runner mani? I ask because if you wern't controlling it, you weren't even starting to touch on it's potential for adding low RPM power while letting the motor flow really good up top on the 2nd plane of runners.
 
I'll be running a Cyclone on my stroker, it will be controlled with a T-25 actuator. A mod a local came up with. He runs in the 10's with it.

I didn't have gaskets for mine either. So I just used grey RTV. Make sure you assemble it in a warm room and let it cure for 24hrs.
 
The solenoid or the vacuum reservoir? The solenoid you could probably get for free or very cheap from somebody on the forum. I don't have the number for the reservoir, but the guys at JNZ know what you need. What are you planning on using to activate the solenoid?
I meant the resivoir, I've been junk yard hunting for the solenoid. I'm going to use the method I saw on a post that used the Summit Racing RPM switch so I think that would do fine. Originally I was gunna try and do it with the shift light before I registered here but I don't want an extra tach in my car. I think I kind of understand how to wire it all up. I'll have a better idea when I get everything together.
 
I'll be running a Cyclone on my stroker, it will be controlled with a T-25 actuator. A mod a local came up with. He runs in the 10's with it.

I didn't have gaskets for mine either. So I just used grey RTV. Make sure you assemble it in a warm room and let it cure for 24hrs.

How did this hold up to boost and what not? Is it still functioning to this day? How long has it been since you assembled it with this method?

I'm going to be cleaning mine tonight/tomorrow morning and then trying to get it all ready with new gaskets and back on the new head for my car. Hopefully all goes well. Whatever I try, I'll try to get some pics of the before and after.
 
I'll be running a Cyclone on my stroker, it will be controlled with a T-25 actuator. A mod a local came up with. He runs in the 10's with it.QUOTE]

I've been running with a wastegate actuator controlling my Cyclone intake for years now. I would suggest using a 14b actuator over the t-25 because I found that the t-25 arm didn't have enough distance at full extension to fully open the butterflies. The 14b works and hasn't been a problem once. It even holds up to track days. One bit of advice. Make sure you remove the nylon bushing in the butterfly arm before you weld anything up. It can melt really easily and once its gone its a pain to replace.

I did take it off my track car last year and replaced with a SMIM that gave me more power up top. I didn't give up on the cyclone I just put it on my GVR4 that I use as a daily driver.
 
what is this I am looking at a Intake Manifold that say Cyclone but not the other stuff and it does not have dual runners. Is it different from the Factory manifold I dont have one to compare it with
 
I ran the Cyclone intake manifold hooked up with a Dodge Dakota vacuum canister and actuated by the FPR solenoid via DSMLink. Link lets you use the Nitrous settings to actuate a nitrous solenoid via the FPR solenoid. It is completely adjustable, I don't remember the exact RPM that worked best for me, but if you have Link, play with it and see. It made a HUGE difference in spoolup and low end power; also gave me a good 2+ mpg overall.

I have also helped Agent11br hook up his Cyclone with the summit racing RPM switch (in the Tech section of this site) and that works just as well, just a bit harder to tune since you have to use the dip switches to change RPM values rather than a computer.

Either way works, but before anyone dismisses the value of a Cyclone manifold, it NEEDS to be hooked up right, otherwise you will never see the gains.
 
I have the cyclone manifold on my car, and it works beautifully. right now, I have a t-25 actuator on it, and it fully opens and closes the runners. the mod that people use though that works good is the supercharger actuator from a mustang cobra. its like $60, and works perfectly. And the vaccuum source that activates it is tapped into the manifold itself. it opens the runners at 7psi.
 
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