Criticize my setup

[_Madman_]

OK, so the story is as follows:
I took my car to stealership and I have a list of problems it has.

The clutch is almost worn out.
The motor mounts are gone/almost gone.
Rear brake rotors are worn unevenly.
Timing belt + all other parts should be replaced for security sake.

Stealership prices for parts are somewhere in $2k-$4k range for OEM parts, plus hell of a lot for the labor...

The car is '96 Eclipse GST /MT(Japanese), bone stock + 2.5'' exhaust (5 Zigen fireball).

So far I see no reason to go for OEM parts except maybe for Timing belts (around 150$ main and who knows how much for balancer). So, I'm thinking of upgrading my setup and replacing worn parts with after market at the same time.

So right now I'm looking to get following parts:
ACT 2100 Clutch Kit
Fidanza Flywheel
Urethane engine mount set.
+ probably
Quaife Front LSD

The parts for timing belt replacement are a mystery to me. From forums and other sources I found out that "If your engine has high mileage, it is a GOOD idea to replace the waterpump, timing belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and balancer belt tensioner pulley while doing the belts." (vfaq.com). The engine is @ 142580km (88 595mi) mark. But the guy at the service told me that it makes no sense to replace parts that are not broken yet, only the belts, then he added that - no way in hell they will repair eclipse anyway

So the question is, which parts I do need to replace? And where the heck I can get OEM parts aside from stealership. What do you guys with your setups use? Are you running on OEM belts or replacement?

What I want to do with my DSM next, is to do a fuel pump rewire. Redo all SMIC intercooler piping and upgrade BOV. GReddy 2G Intercooler Pipes + Greddy RS BOV with 32mm recirculation fitting are on the way already. The MBC is going to be the next step, ~15psi for a start.

So the question is, is this setup alright? I'm not going to shoot for way past 300hp. Are Fidanza and ACT components compatible? Is Quaife LSD compatible with Shepard transmission upgrades if I will decide to do the upgrade later on?

Brakes are not in a bad shape, so I might as well wait and do a big brake kit upgrade later on and do a recommended quick rotor fix (when you take off the excess metal where needed, forgot the word ).

Any other commments?

 

[snowborder714]

So the question is, which parts I do need to replace? And where the heck I can get OEM parts aside from stealership. What do you guys with your setups use? Are you running on OEM belts or replacement?

If you search the forums for 'oem parts' you will find a bunch of threads that have various answers. Or you can check out the vendors section of this forum and look through there.

So the question is, is this setup alright?

Sounds like a good plan!

Are Fidanza and ACT components compatible?

Yes.

Is Quaife LSD compatible with Shepard transmission upgrades if I will decide to do the upgrade later on?

Yes, considering Shep sells the Quaife as an optional upgrade.

do a recommended quick rotor fix (when you take off the excess metal where needed, forgot the word ).

The word you're looking for is turn.

 

[turbosax2]

The polyurethane motor mount sets do not completely replace the stock mounts for the front and rear mounts. If those mounts are completely gone, you need to buy new stock mounts too. The two side mounts are complete replacements so you don't need new stock mounts for them.

For the rotors, most people will just say to buy new rotors rather than turning your old ones because you can get new rotors for an affordable price. Might as well get some new brake bads and good clean brake fluid too.

Yes, it's a good idea to replace the timing belt parts.
"But the guy at the service told me that it makes no sense to replace parts that are not broken yet"
Ya, great idea, wait until your water pump fails on you or your timing belt breaks then replace it. The vfaq lists all parts needed for the timing belt job.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214331
Those guys have good prices on oem parts. OEM belts are fine to use.

The fuel pump rewire is a good idea, as is the mbc. Just make sure you have an aftermarket boost gauge.

Do you plan on getting a fmic ever? If you do, might as well just get it now so you don't have to buy the pipes now and then just replace them later.

Some people don't like the Fidanza flywheel because it's so lightweight so they go with the XACT flywheel. Do your research on this one and read peoples opinions then make an educated decision.

 

[RayPeters]

Seriously look for alternatives for that ACT crap. I've replaced more of those and sent off trannies for repair work because of them than all the other manufacturers combined. Spec has nice stuff, also check out http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=10332&cat=0&page=1 and http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=19444&cat=0&page=1. Flywheel is here: http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=21694&cat=0&page=1

Before anyone cries wolf, I have nothing to gain from all this, I've used there equipment and had very good luck with it. I currently have a spec satge 3+ in my talon and it survived the twincharged setup and is ready for more.

 

[_Madman_]

Thanks a lot for the input!

I think the hardest part will probably be to find a vendor that ships to Latvia, Europe

As for the mounts:

The polyurethane motor mount sets do not completely replace the stock mounts for the front and rear mounts. If those mounts are completely gone, you need to buy new stock mounts too. The two side mounts are complete replacements so you don't need new stock mounts for them.

Do you mean brackets? Or do I need the OEM rubber mounts + polly upgrade?

Brake upgrade is a good idea, but I will have to save up some cash first, and so far I just couldn't find front+rear kit for 2G/FWD. So I will have to do some research as well when time comes.

Concerning clutch, I'm starting to think that Fidanza might be good choice as well. Lightweight flywheel (161781) + 3.2 (361222) clutch kit.

As for the FMIC remark, I have thought about that, but in the end I decided to stick with SMIC for now and then resell the pipes when need comes. So far I'm too much stock to jump to intercooler upgrades, even though colder air is allways nice...

 

[turbosax2]

The front and rear polyurethane motor mounts are really "inserts". They go in conjunction with the oem mounts. If the rubber part of your oem mount is gone, you need to buy a new oem mount (which is the metal piece and the rubber piece, comes as 1 unit).

If your brakes are ok now, just leave them as is. IMO, it's stupid to replace something like that when they still have life left in them. Wait until they need replaced, then do a mild upgrade.

Good luck!

 

[_Madman_]

OK, this seems to be the list of parts I got to get:
QFE-76.309.160 Quaife ATB Limited-Slip Dif... $ 1,175.00
FDZ-161781 Fidanza Lightweight Aluminu... $ 209.99
FDZ-361222 Fidanza 3.2 Performance Clu... $ 359.99
PRO-13-1901BL Prothane Motor Mount Insert... $ 77.50
MIT-MD326059 4G63 Timing Belt : Mitsubis... $ 73.80
MIT-MR984778 Balance Shaft Belt : Mitsub... $ 29.00
MIT-MD972050 Water Pump Assembly : Mitsu... $ 122.00
MIT-MD352473 Balancer Tensioner Pulley: ... $ 39.00
MIT-MD156604 Timing Belt Idler Pulley : ... $ 34.00
MIT-MD182537 Timing Belt Tensioner Pulle... $ 29.50
MIT-MD308086(7) Timing Belt Tensioner Adjus... $ 74.00

Source: extremepsi.com

Can anyone verify if it's everything I need?
I'm not quite sure about Timing Belt Tensioner Adjuster, the part number from steelership has 7 as a last digit, but from the registration it seems that it should be 6. I have Japanese VIN number, so I cant find how to decode it...

 

[RayPeters]

There are several part numbers for the TB tensioner that are all valid and function fine for our application. If the vendor says they have the right part, then I'd trust them.

Ray

 

[synthetek]

+1 for the clutchnet, I am very happy with mine so far.

It would be a very good Idea to replace all the timing components (pulleys, tensioner, etc..) and the water pump at the same time with oem parts especially if you are planning on 300+ HP. It wont take much longer to replace it all while you have it apart and it can help prevent serious, costly damage. While you have the flywheel off you should also check the rear main seal and replace it if you see any leaking.