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Crankwalk Lifespan or Expectancy

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kthackst

10+ Year Contributor
410
10
Oct 1, 2008
York, Pennsylvania
OK so I bought a 97 eclipse last October without a transmission. Body was really really clean. The transmission was in the car just locked up so I got to hear it run and it ran smooth but the car could not move. But I noticed after I got a new transmission in and took it for a hard left turn the clutch pedal lost all pressure.

Well after searching forums that was not a good sign...

So my plan was to just drive it until the engine blows up. Here I am over 6 months later and the damn thing is still running.

I replaced both the master on slave clutch cylinder and bled them several times but no difference.

Any way I am looking at it as a blessing now I get to justify a rebuild with fun parts.

The real question is when should the crankwalk kill this thing? 6+ months crankwalking how many more do you think I have left?
 
Don't take it so seriously.

Let me add this, I not really waiting for it to blow up just the infamous clicking down by the crank on the timing belt.

I am rebuilding a 6 bolt. I have a second head ready to put on. I just want to know if anyone has an estimate of how long crankwalk can go on for. So I can plan the rest of my purchases.

Thanks for the advise though...
 
One are you sure its crank walk? becaue its kinda overrated. Two if you wanna blow it up cover the radiator turn the fans off and rev it until she blows in your driveway dont have it lock up on the highway.
 
Why are you trying to kill off a perfectly good 7-bolt short block???

More importantly, are you trying to get yourself killed? What if the motor explodes while you're ripping down the highway. What if you dump all you oil all over the highway and you kill someone else. Idiot.

If you wanna do a 6-bolt swap, THEN DO IT.

If that 7-bolt blows and takes that 2G head with it I will laugh so hard at you.

Moron. Grow up.

Have a nice day.

Wow i can not believe how derogatory some people are to others just for asking questions. basically the whole point of ## post was to put someone down for the interest in gaining information from a website that is supposedly a source of good info on dsm's. I see more answers like this and honestly it makes me feel embarrassed to be part of a community that is so demeaning and quick to calls names and make low blows. For shame.
 
He thinks he has CW by reading posts from people on the supposedly informative website, which is is overrated like many have said. If he would listen to everyone else he woulda spent all the money to do a rebuild 6 months ago, instead of being able to save for now. Sounds like what he did was smart not "stupid and moronic" And i didnt know CW would cause it to "explode" causing death and massacre all over the highways. Especially seeming how his crank hasn't moved enough to click from hitting the CAS or CPS whichever that it hits. I think he would have to have crankrun to go from very minimal signs to explosive death. BTW if it "pisses you off" because other people are stupid, you must be mad a lot. Let stupid ppl be stupid and woosaah, calm down.
 
I would check the endplay of the crank first. You really can't say how long it's going to last. But after you hear the clicking coming from the crank sensor it's very close to the end. On a side note. Every other forum i go to has a flame free newbie forum. I don't see the need to bash someone for asking a question. We were all newbs at one time.
 
I'm sorry but it pisses me off when people do stupid and dangerous things.

I had my t-case lock up on me on the highway and almost slammed into an exit ramp median. I don't wanna see this guy do the same.

I admit I was a bit harsh but I've seen a million and a half teenagers think their Vin Diesel and they can beat a train across the tracks or something stupid like that. If he doesn't want that 7-bolt then I'll take it off his hands free of charge. ;)

Tom

We understand your point but your still being way to hard on him for asking a question. Nothing wrong with what he wants to know. If we had an actual time frame it could help me budget and save and get parts or start building etc. You don't know his situation at all.

Btw my opinion 6bolts are overrated just like crankwalk. ANY motor can crankwalk, autos, manuals 7bolts, 6bolts and other cars. Happens to miata's, happens to 6bolts etc. My car was out of spec but I wouldn't call it crankwalk. Clutch stuck to the floor. Until the point that where it takes out the crank angle sensor and won't start or run that is when you should deem it dead. However you can bypass that sensor and wire it to the cam sensor to get it to run.
I have a built 7bolt, no problems here. :hellyeah:
 
I agree with Gamble97. The guy had a question, we all have questions. Don't flip on him for wanting an answer.... Crankwalk is more rare than people think, if you dont have all the warning signs dont worry about it too much. just have fun with your DSM:) if it gets worse though, dont drive it for safety purposes.
 
Well I though myself and everyone else would have a little fun with the thread but oh well.

I agree with you Gamble97 and I really want to get a built 7 bolt and block off the oil jets like they did at Magnus (I believe it was them). But I costed it out and the 6 bolt swap would actually cost me less.

The end goal is to have this car as a 6 bolt with some fun mods for a while (2-3 years) and then back to a stocker to complete its lifecycle.
 
I agree with Gamble97. The guy had a question, we all have questions. Don't flip on him for wanting an answer.... Crankwalk is more rare than people think, if you dont have all the warning signs dont worry about it too much. just have fun with your DSM:) if it gets worse though, dont drive it for safety purposes.

When it starts to go I guess I will have to drive the G35....

Life is tough right...
 
hahah im sure youll be suffering. haha. i ride the bus everyday, which is what happens when you like driving your dsm a little tooooo fast. :) tickets up the ying yang.
 
Well I might be on the bus with you in spirit if I don't get this worked out by next winter. The G35 likes to move every way but forward in snow/ice.

One time I went to grocery store it started snowing and I couldn't leave... That was the day I decided I was going to get something with AWD.
 
I have a simple solution to help your problem. Go order some new main bearings and rod bearings. They arent super expensive. You could prob jsut replace the mains they run about 45 for the set. Drop the oil pan and remove the main cap structure. You can actually roll the new bearings in with the crank and engine in the car. I just did mine.

If you dont wanna spend the money at least drop the oil pan and pull a few rod caps and check to see the condition of the bearings. The reason crankwalk is overrated is because Daimer Chrysler admitted to sending uber amounts of car produced between the years of 95-99 out the door with cranks/matched bearings machined out of specification.

As stated before ALOT different vehicles experience crankwalk the fact that DSMs were made public kinda kills their reputation

This would definately prolong the life of the car and save the lives of millions of drivers who might die if your 7bolt were to explode in ten million pieces all over the highway RAWR...

Just kidding on the second part but some decent sealed power/clevite bearings would definately get you where your going as long as you dont drive it like you stole it until your done with the 6bolt.

Kolby
 
Sorry to butt in, but does anyone have a clip of what crankwalk sounds like? I hear a knocking noise, but it can be anything (u-joints, wheel bearings, axles, etc) Is there anything else to look for instead of knocking for crankwalk?
 
Does it knock when its idling too? or just when its moving. What about when you push the clutch in?
 
Take a hard left turn. If you have no clutch pressure during the turn or immediately after that is normally an indication you might have crankwalk. There are other problems that could causing this... There only true way to diagnose crankwalk to drop the oil pan and measure the cranks side to side play.

Crank walk is when there is axial play that lets your crank move side to side due to worn crank trust bearings. When you take a hard left turn with crankwalk the crank and flywheel, attached to the crank, move to the right of the car. Since they move to it only takes away all the throw of the clutch. So you will notice there is no pressure in clutch pedal and it will suddenly disengage at the bottom of the throw and re-engage suddenly (Since the crank is still all the way to the right).

The clicking noise is generally the crank not just moving side to side but radially now since it has destroyed the rest of the bearings. From my searching on DSMTuners and other sites, if you hear the clicking coming from the crank on the timing belt side you might have ~5 miles at best before the crank bends and the timing belt jumps.

Sorry no explosions...
 
you might be okay. Does your clutch pedal hit the floor or has no pressure when making a tight left turn?
 
Just pull the motor rebuild the it right way and dont EVER worry about crankwalk. Tell me one reason(other than stronger rods and thicker head bolts) why a 6-bolt is better than a 7-bolt... there isnt one. Crankwalk has its BIG name thanks to all the newbies/ricers that heard about it and started running there mouth like as if it was the end of the world.
 
I agree with Gamble97. The guy had a question, we all have questions. Don't flip on him for wanting an answer.... Crankwalk is more rare than people think, if you dont have all the warning signs dont worry about it too much. just have fun with your DSM:) if it gets worse though, dont drive it for safety purposes.


I agree. What I want to know is when did the forums turn so combative. He just wants a few answers and people are chompin at the bit to cut him down and call him an idiot for being curious....
 
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