"Cowl Induction" hood setup help. Raising hood from hinges question. [Merged 5-9]

[kazzam]

There is some food for thought. IN that case, it is weight removal
As long as it is not over heating then I glad. Oh, and there is still A LOT of heat coming from under the car when parked or slow driving...so i don't know.

My car is not a daily driver and does not see much activity in the heat of the summer. And if it does, its only for a run across a bridge or something at night.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

I also live in FL and I would never go as far as to remove my AC. It gets damn hot. Here we can also get by running much more water than in other areas. I suggest getting a new thermostat if yours hasn't been replaced and flushing the coolant system. With those things done and my fans set to run all the time I regularly run around 196-203 w/o AC.

I agree. It's too damn hot here to sacrifice the glorious a/c! Also, I have the same year 2G with huge fmic and I have no cooling problems here in Orlando. However, when I installed my fmic, I removed the crash bumper and cut a lot of the front bumper material, even parts I didn't necessarily need to cut...all to free up more space for air to move, and you can't see it from the outside so it looks good. I removed the splash guards in the wheel wells. Leaving your crash bumper in there is safer, but really blocks a ton of air flow.

Also, I have a tranny cooler mounted between the fmic and condensor which further restricts air flow -- in fact, it gets hot from the tranny fluid and sits against my condensor -- yet my a/c is still cold and my car does not overheat.

 

[kazzam]

I agree. It's too damn hot here to sacrifice the glorious a/c! Also, I have the same year 2G with huge fmic and I have no cooling problems here in Orlando. However, when I installed my fmic, I removed the crash bumper and cut a lot of the front bumper material, even parts I didn't necessarily need to cut...all to free up more space for air to move, and you can't see it from the outside so it looks good. I removed the splash guards in the wheel wells. Leaving your crash bumper in there is safer, but really blocks a ton of air flow.

Also, I have a tranny cooler mounted between the fmic and condensor which further restricts air flow -- in fact, it gets hot from the tranny fluid and sits against my condensor -- yet my a/c is still cold and my car does not overheat.

wow. if it was that easy, i wouldn't have done all the crap i did. Perhaps my problem was something other then having the condenser in there. But, after what i did, it worked so if anyone wants to try it, go for it.

To put the condensor back in is like an hour job. In the summer time, i might put it back in and recharge the system. If i do that, i'll post back.

 

[dnhieu]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224201&highlight=how+i+lowered+my

good thread i made to help over heating problems. also i live in florida and it does get hot as hell BUT i also removed my a/c. i just dress towards the weather. i always wear shorts and a white t-shirt till i get to my destination and i just throw another shirt on over the el cheapo under shirt and its not that bad....

 

[kazzam]

I wanted to try what you did. But, after looking under my car(2g), i scrapped that idea. There is a huge brace that goes there and my fmic is in the way. so just cut a bigger hole in the bumper.

 

[eclipsh]

Side thought on yanking that rubber trim by the windshield. That area is also where your cabin air intake is. If you have any kind of noxious fumes coming from under the hood you'll be directing them straight into the cabin. Not a good thing in my book.

 

[Syndicate13]

I just got back from installing a Koyo. 192-196 all the way home, it wasn't too hot out though only 92.

 

[SleepingTsi94]

My engine bay get quite hot. I know the turbo lets off alot of heat. Well I have one slim fan on it with a new radiator and thermo. I have dsmlink and I get check engine light that comes on once I reach a certain temp. Now what should the normal temps be at. Would it be ok to get another slim fan and have one be a pusher and the other a puller? Im afraid if I get another one and put it in front of the turbo that it would cause it to warp/melt. Or possibly I have my turbo to close to the waterpipe for the temps to be kept down? Running a 50 trim with 2g mani and a adapter plate I have made.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Normal temp's are from 190-206*F. You can also try by putting washer's under the hinges at the rear of the hood to raise it up, then remove that rear weather stripe so that way its easy for super heated air to escape from the engine bay. Also try some water wetter.

 

[Drifter27_04]

try some water wetter.

I reduced my temps between 15-20° with it I also switched my thermostat to a 170. Also if your running DSMlink what code is it throwing up?

 

[MrBoxx]

Do you still have the heat shield on the manifold?

 

[SleepingTsi94]

Still have stock heat shield on the manifold.

 

[olmytsi]

One stock fan, huge fmic, manifold heat shield, 160 degree thermostat, stock radiator and the car runs cool

 

[silvercoupe97]

So you're saying that your one slim fan is on the a/c side because you're afraid of the turbo melting the fan shroud and/or fan if it was in front of it? There plenty of folks who run two slim fans and a 50 trim. If you're thinking of pushing one fan and pulling another, why not just use two as a pusher?
Did you get the 180 deg therm or cooler? How hot are you running anyway? Do you just turn the fan on manually with Link?

This guy (ICE T from here) has a PTE SCM61 with his stock fans....

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I also agree with the popping up the rear of the hood. If you go this route, I will suggest getting longer bolts too. I've got mine propped up about 1/4"-3/8" (I forget which) and I had to replace the stock bolts in order to do this.

 

[spinz4]

If you add a pusher to a puller you will not gain anything. Someone above spoke of a huge intercooler...Would this be 4in thick? Either way give your cooling system a good flush, add some water wetter. While you are doing it get a 160* or 170* thermostat. If that doesnt fix it drill a couple holes in the thermostat, 1/4in is a good size.

By me getting rid of the 2 slimlines that I had and replacing it with the factory fan and drilling 3 1/4in holes in a 195* thermostat I keep well under 215. With a 4in thick FMIC.

EDIT: Yes I am waiting for a different thermostat as well.

STOCK SHROUDS FTW!!(Or any shroud for that matter)

 

[Defiant]

Normal temp's are from 190-206*F. You can also try by putting washer's under the hinges at the rear of the hood to raise it up, then remove that rear weather stripe so that way its easy for super heated air to escape from the engine bay.

Only when stopped. When moving, the base of the windshield is a high-pressure area, and this mod will fight flow through the engine bay.

 

[Simpleman1]

I reduced my temps between 15-20° with it I also switched my thermostat to a 170. Also if your running DSMlink what code is it throwing up?

Any auto parts store carry the 160 or 170* thermostat for DSM? I am going to change my 2 year old coolant this weekend, this a perfect time to change it. My logger shows
206*-218* in stop and go traffic, it not even summer yet.

 

[olmytsi]

I think autozone and all that should. I got mine from http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/maintengine.shtml.
The lowest temp for a 1g head is 160 and for a 2g head it's 170. Took 5 minutes to install and dropped my temps alot!

 

[fourreGsixty3]

OH I didnt know that Defiant thanks for that info. Im planning on using this mod with the hole in the headlgiht mod...do you think this added air from the hole would be able to combat the high pressure at the windshield. Sorry to go O.T.

Also you can take your T-stat out, and drill 1-3 1/16th" holes in the out ring of it so that way coolant will always flow through.

 

[Defiant]

OH I didnt know that Defiant thanks for that info. Im planning on using this mod with the hole in the headlgiht mod...do you think this added air from the hole would be able to combat the high pressure at the windshield. Sorry to go O.T.

Tuft it and find out. Only way to be certain. I'll only say if it worked, it'd be implemented more, and that rear-facing, cowl induction hood scoops wouldn't be used on monster cars.

 

[dave99gst]

when i had the 50 trim i used 2 fans in front on the radiator (inbetween the radiator and fmic) mosly to have less crap in the engine bay. you can also wrap all your piping in exhaust wrap.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Tuft it and find out. Only way to be certain. I'll only say if it worked, it'd be implemented more, and that rear-facing, cowl induction hood scoops wouldn't be used on monster cars.

OK well I guess Ill be trying it out soon as my car get back on the road( after I graduate college in the spring though). My priorities right now are college, then DSMs, and it suck's cause I want to do so much to it, but my money goes for school now.

 

[SleepingTsi94]

Well I put another slim ran in and a 180 thermo and seems to run hotter. If I get on it the temp rises takes awhile to come down. So im going to run a compression check and see if I have some air in the system.

 

[Avalanche419]

I noticed that my engine runs real hot....I was wondering, how can you cool an naturally aspirated engine down??? I mean it's pointless to have an intercooler without a turbo, but what other options do I have....is there any other ways that i may be able to cool it down????

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Aftermarket radiator, aftermarket fans, new thermostat, water wetter, more water in your coolant mix, vents. Tons of ways.