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Couple of Concerns w/my EVO III 16g Install.

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TalonJohn94

20+ Year Contributor
590
4
Jan 30, 2003
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
OK, well I got tired of waiting for one of my friends' garages to be open - so I decided to install my EVO III 16g and full 3" exhaust in my driveway. Armed with a "not-quite-complete" SEARS set of hand tools, a hammer, all my gaskets fluids, etc,.. --- I went to it. Besides 2 broken exhaust bracket bolts, 1 broken radiator fan bolts, a coolant spill, permanent black hands and a nice bump on my forehead (dropped DP on my head) , I have a couple of concerns:

When I first started the car, it took me a minute or two to realize I had the SLOWBOY relocation line loose at the turbo's fitting and that it was leaking out. DID I DO ANY SERIOUS DAMAGE?

Remarkably, NONE of the exhaust manifold studs broke upon removal. BUT - when I reinstalled I went to do a final tighten on the last crush nut and SNAP. So now the VERY RIGHT TOP stud is broken (not the bottom one, which is the larger one) but nothing moves when it broke. DO I NEED to TAKE the MANIFOLD BACK OFF and INSTALL NEW STUD or WILL I be ALRIGHT MISSING ONE?

ALSO, the manifold I'm using is tapped for a 1/8 NPT EGT probe fitting, but I haven't installed it yet. I heard that you have to have steel in there because of the heat. WHAT CAN I TEMPORARILY PLUG IT WITH UNTIL I CAN INSTALL the EGT PROBE?

LASTLY, I looked in the bottom of the bottle of coolant that I used to refill the car with, (which I've had sitting for at least a year) and there were some sediments. HOW SENSITIVE is the COOLING SYSTEM to DIRT .... in the 4G63t (jackets, lines...etc,.) ?

Any advice/expertise is gladly appreciated.

:thumb:
 
GoldÐiamond said:
OK, well I got tired of waiting for one of my friends' garages to be open - so I decided to install my EVO III 16g and full 3" exhaust in my driveway. Armed with a "not-quite-complete" SEARS set of hand tools, a hammer, all my gaskets fluids, etc,.. --- I went to it. Besides 2 broken exhaust bracket bolts, 1 broken radiator fan bolts, a coolant spill, permanent black hands and a nice bump on my forehead (dropped DP on my head) , I have a couple of concerns:

When I first started the car, it took me a minute or two to realize I had the SLOWBOY relocation line loose at the turbo's fitting and that it was leaking out. DID I DO ANY SERIOUS DAMAGE?

Remarkably, NONE of the exhaust manifold studs broke upon removal. BUT - when I reinstalled I went to do a final tighten on the last crush nut and SNAP. So now the VERY RIGHT TOP stud is broken (not the bottom one, which is the larger one) but nothing moves when it broke. DO I NEED to TAKE the MANIFOLD BACK OFF and INSTALL NEW STUD or WILL I be ALRIGHT MISSING ONE?

ALSO, the manifold I'm using is tapped for a 1/8 NPT EGT probe fitting, but I haven't installed it yet. I heard that you have to have steel in there because of the heat. WHAT CAN I TEMPORARILY PLUG IT WITH UNTIL I CAN INSTALL the EGT PROBE?

LASTLY, I looked in the bottom of the bottle of coolant that I used to refill the car with, (which I've had sitting for at least a year) and there were some sediments. HOW SENSITIVE is the COOLING SYSTEM to DIRT .... in the 4G63t (jackets, lines...etc,.) ?

Any advice/expertise is gladly appreciated.

:thumb:

First off, good job and congratulations on tackling the job yourself. always good to appreciate your own work, right?

second, it was amazing you didnt snap any exhaust manifold studs while taking it off. if you were in Chicago, i'd buy you a beer for that one.

As far as the one that snapped, that is no good. There will be a leak there, which is undesirable. remember, andything before the turbo is no good. Sediments are undesirable too. I imagine you do not want any type of deposit traveling throughout the motor and system.
 
Thanks for the advice. Upon re-installation, do you suggest threadlocker of anything?

Do I need NEW crush nuts again, or will they "re-crush?"

Oh yeah, and do I even NEED to take exhaust manifold off, or can I extract through the hold in the exhaust manifold flange?
 
Congratulations on the installation! Broken exhaust manifold studs are a pain in the arse. Whenever I break one I just take my head to the machine shop and let them deal with it. But if you don't feel like unbolting your head (which can take a few hours) then your gonna be stuck trying to drill it out from the inside your engine bay. I highly recommend just driving it to some shop that will drill out and replace the stud (might cost $10-50, or even by the hour). If you want to try to drill it out yourself, this is what you would do:

1.) Buy a bolt extractor kit (reverse threaded drill bits basically)

2.) Get your hands on a drill bit set, preferably titanium coated

3.) get a drill

4.) drill small hole down into the broken stud

5.) take the appropiate sized extractor bit and screw it into the hole you made

6.) Keep turning the extractor bit COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to unscrew the stud from the head

CAUTION: if you do this incorrectly you will destroy your head. If you drill to far you will cut into a water jacker or make an oil galley. If your are not confident in doing something like this, take it to a shop (you mention your friend had a shop, let them have a wack at it)

As mentioned above, any type of leak from the manifold (which is before the turbo) will result in your turbo not spooling up as fast as it could. It will also contribute to a stinky smell, and loud exhaust noises. Although it won't hurt anything, it can be very annoying. There isn't anything you can really put into the 1/8" NPT hole except for the probe (I don't think). You can just drive around with no probe in it for a while if you don't mind the turbo not spooling up or the loud ass exhaust noise. As for the dirty coolant system, as long as it has at least a 50/50 mixture of water/antifreeze and the particles are too huge, your coolant system will be ok. If its REALLLLL dirty then eventually this will eat away at your water pump (no biggy, will cost $50 to replace with a new one). Your biggest worry will be having a clog somewhere in your coolant system. Depending where the clog occurs, it could be quite devasting. If a clog developed say in your NEW TURBO, you might overheat your turbo and you might be doing this installation all over again (sorry to frighten you). Although this is probably VERY unlikely, I would recommend going to the parts store and picking up a flushing agent for your coolant system to get rid of all the contaminants.
 
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