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Coolant overflow questions...

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sureshot971

15+ Year Contributor
228
0
Aug 20, 2005
Anoka, Minnesota
So I did a turbo swap and pulled my radiator and obviously drained the coolant.

New turbo is a dry cartridge so I just ran a loop through kit.

I put everything back on and hopefully plugged in all the wiring but now when I fill it with coolant and drive it my overflow can fills to the top and even starts seeping out the top and then I will look in my radiator cap and it is just dry.

Any suggestions on whats wrong?
 
Sounds like you either stretched the head bolts or the head gasket isn't sealing. Symptoms would be you fill the overflow to the right level, go for a drive under boost, come back and the coolant bottle overflows and when you pop the radiator cap it empty. I did the ARP head stud swap on the car and all these annoying symptoms disappeared never to return again. Best $78 I ever spent.
 
ok but when I open the radiator cap I dont even see any coolant left. It all jsut gets pushed in the overflow tank. So i tried pouring it back in the radiator cap but still a little while later the same thing.
 
You might still be purging a lot of air out of the system, since you said you completely drained the system during the install. You won't draw coolant back into the radiator with air still in the system, though it still might overflow into the radiator overflow tank. Try purging the system first.
 
Maybe the radiator cap is bad. If it opens to soon lower than (I think 13 PSI) it will let coolant out. if the seal is bad/deformed it will not let coolant back into the cooling system once the car cools down.
 
The seal should be fine it worked just fine on my old turbo, is there a replacement seal at like autozone or somewhere?

Also how do you purge it?
 
DSMs do not need purging, they'll rid themselves of air in the system with about four heat/cool cycles. However, you can "purge" most cooling systems by squeezing the lower radiator hose a few times with the radiator cap off.
Those few design disasters (you know, GMs) that actually need purging have a purging valve at the high point of the cooling system.
 
DSMs do not need purging, they'll rid themselves of air in the system with about four heat/cool cycles. However, you can "purge" most cooling systems by squeezing the lower radiator hose a few times with the radiator cap off.
Those few design disasters (you know, GMs) that actually need purging have a purging valve at the high point of the cooling system.

That's not quite true. Many people don't know how to properly fill their coolant systems and think that by filling it up with the car off, they can put the cap on and have everything be alright. This isn't true. You have to run the car with a funnel in the hole for the rad cap until the car reaches temp. This will eliminate all of the air in the system and make sure you are filled to capacity.

Also, bad rad caps will let the car push coolant into the overflow and not let it back. I'd check this out first, as it's cheap, and good maintenence anway.
 
Just fill up the radiator up with coolant leave the cap off and run the car with the heat on, I do coolant flushs all day at work and this way is the best. Hope it helps
 
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