Cold start, dies unless given gas

[Rms13]

90 Galant GSX (nt 4g63)

When starting at a complete cold start it dies immediately after starting. After giving it alot of gas for a little bit it will hold a idle and drive normally. Then after driving, then turning it off then starting it up again, It might hold a idle by itself. Though if try to drive off right away it will hesitate and buckle for the first few rpms if I don't give it extra gas (give it a tiny bit of gas and it will only die). Again, after warming up, it seems to drive normal as any other car. I've no idea what it could be. Any help on this.

 

[5150DSM]

First thought is CTS(coolant temp sensor). Check the connections on the coolant neck and make sure they are all plugged in. Is the car throwing a code?

 

[Rms13]

I'll have to check that coolant temp sensor, when I get home. As far as thowing a check engine light goes, I've seen it come on every once in a while. When I do see it goes on and off. Sometimes I won't see it for weeks. Then it'll randomly come on, then off. How do I read the code for this particular car. The vfaq gets some what confusing to me.

 

[5150DSM]

I'll have to check that coolant temp sensor, when I get home. As far as thowing a check engine light goes, I've seen it come on every once in a while. When I do see it goes on and off. Sometimes I won't see it for weeks. Then it'll randomly come on, then off. How do I read the code for this particular car. The vfaq gets some what confusing to me.

The easiest way I've found is the buzzer method described in the VFAQ. You can also use an analog voltmeter.

On the diagnostic port in the drivers kick panel, connect a jumper to pin #1(upper right) for positive and to pin #12(lower left) for ground, then connect the corresponding jumpers to the pins on the 12v buzzer(#273-055) $3.49 from Radio Shack. Long pulses represent 10's, short pulses represent 1's, the difference is unmistakeable. So for example, if you hear L-L-S, that would be 21. The code(s) will keep repeating with short breaks in-between each code. Make sure you have pen and paper so you can write everything down, this is especially helpful if you have multiple codes. Hope this was helpful and good luck.
5150DSM

 

[nytescion]

90 Galant GSX (nt 4g63)

When starting at a complete cold start it dies immediately after starting. After giving it alot of gas for a little bit it will hold a idle and drive normally. Then after driving, then turning it off then starting it up again, It might hold a idle by itself. Though if try to drive off right away it will hesitate and buckle for the first few rpms if I don't give it extra gas (give it a tiny bit of gas and it will only die). Again, after warming up, it seems to drive normal as any other car. I've no idea what it could be. Any help on this.

Ever find out what it is? I'm having the same problem...

 

[AllyBii]

I'm having the same issue as well... if you fix the problem please let me know. Thanks!

 

[DenverDog]

im having a very similar problem with my talon and what i think it is is a boost leak or fuel system issue? alot of times it seems like when these cars are under alot of pressure things go out like the fuel pump or some time of leak has developed. i think my fuel pump or something todo with my fuel system makes it difficult for the engine to startup correctly and maintain a steady idol. i strongly believe its my fuel pump so maybe other dsms are likely to have the same problem. if you do find out let me know because ive been trying to track this down for a while now

 

[RMawddsm]

Sounds like a boost leak, my car did the same thing for months, found a boost leak that I had passed over the last couple times I did it. I swapped out the hose clamp for a t-bolt clamp and haven't seen that issue since.

 

[nytescion]

im in hot pursuit right now . i'll post back if I find anything.

 

[nAiFk1e]

i just completely sealed my intercooler piping ect. and i still have that same problem as you do (check under 20 to 25 lbs of boost.) i really think it has something to do with my fuel management and maybe that is your problem as well? i have narrowed it down to my fuel pump. everything else now is nearly aftermarket except for my fuel rail and injectors.

 

[nytescion]

yeah I'll be pulling my pump tomorrow to check the o-ring and also checking the tank to make sure all my lines are still connected. I'll also be buying a new gas cap.

 

[Kingnc02]

The easiest way I've found is the buzzer method described in the VFAQ. You can also use an analog voltmeter.

On the diagnostic port in the drivers kick panel, connect a jumper to pin #1(upper right) for positive and to pin #12(lower left) for ground, then connect the corresponding jumpers to the pins on the 12v buzzer(#273-055) $3.49 from Radio Shack. Long pulses represent 10's, short pulses represent 1's, the difference is unmistakeable. So for example, if you hear L-L-S, that would be 21. The code(s) will keep repeating with short breaks in-between each code. Make sure you have pen and paper so you can write everything down, this is especially helpful if you have multiple codes. Hope this was helpful and good luck.
5150DSM

you are right that is the cheapest and easiest way to find out at home. If you go to your local autozone the can plug a reader in your obd II port and tell you in about 10 sec what codes your throwing and it doesnt cost anything. depend on what sales person helps you you can also get him to clear it. that way if you have fixed anything if it comes on again you will be sure.

 

[nAiFk1e]

clearing the thing damn near NEVER works on a dsm. and if you dont have an obd and want it cleared just unplug battery and plug back in. does the same damn thing

 

[blackGSX2g]

This is a common problem with those who eliminate the FIAV. If you have the ablility, swap out your throttle body and see if it helps. Sometimes the FIAV or wax ball can go bad and cause cold idle issues.

 

[nytescion]

that'll be one of the last things i do if this oring isn't the culprit. I'll be sending mine out to throttlebodys.com for rebuild and fresh sensors.

 

[nytescion]

So i think i found out what my problem is. I took my fuel pump out and i could see an o-ring at the base of the pump shaft that goes into the tube of the fuel pump cover. so i pulled the pump out and the plastic rest for the o-ring was up inside the fuel pump cover tube. After fishing it out i saw another o-ring up there so i pulled that out. I looked up one last time and there was another plastic rest up there. In short I had 2 sets of o-rings and plastic piece shoved up there. There is no spacer involved in this install. Damn previous owners.

Now i have another problem the o-ring that was inside is very fat. I can get the plastic rest inside the o-ring but the OD of the o-ring is so big it won't fit into the pump cover tube. I'm going to go buy an o-ring that fits the plastic piece that fits both snugly. Hopefully this works.