The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Clutch won't fully disengage

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

92awd16g

Probationary Member
8
0
Jan 17, 2012
Knoxville, Tennessee
Just bought a 92 talon awd and it was really hard to shift. Previous owner said he bleed it a few times and it felt better but I have to force it into gears to get home. He had replaced the motor and tranny and everything, is fairly new. The fork is looking centered and the rod is moving to the end of the rubber but not really pushing, it. Petal is really stuff like it has a heavy clutch in it as well. With the car off you can put it in gear with the clutch pressed down and it won't roll. Also the starter kinda grinds when starting. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
 
Do you know what kind of clutch? Jacks Transmissions on youtube has a good video on adjusting the clutch. With the clutch pushed in and the car in 1st, does it move at all when you rev it up?
The shifter cables might need adjusting to?? Does it go into some gears better than others?
 
adjust the rod that attaches to the pedal or if its an ACT 1800 or 2100 series clutch setups (which are heavy duty clutches) you may have to buy an extended slave cylinder push rod. Those clutches have been known to to have disengagement problems which installing an extended rod fixes. Though I wouldn't lean to hard on another person's work unless you know you can trust them. SO do the easiest thing first and bleed them yourself and see what you get.
P.S. You can get the extended rod on ebay.
 
Also,(unfortunately you have to pull the trans) but,put a washer under the pivot ball for the release bearing fork.
 
adjust the rod that attaches to the pedal or if its an ACT 1800 or 2100 series clutch setups (which are heavy duty clutches) you may have to buy an extended slave cylinder push rod. Those clutches have been known to to have disengagement problems which installing an extended rod fixes. Though I wouldn't lean to hard on another person's work unless you know you can trust them. SO do the easiest thing first and bleed them yourself and see what you get.
P.S. You can get the extended rod on ebay.

Wow... Never heard of an ACT 1800.:confused: The extended slave cylinder rod is definitely more of a band-aid than a fix though.:notgood:
Get the pedal height and freeplay set correctly and that's usually half the battle.
 
the motor and trans is from tiger Japanese auto parts. i found out it has a 2600 act in it. i'm going to try the extended rod and go ahead and replace the slave and master since i have the money. just wish the 1g had adjustments on the pedal

oh and i havent tried reving it in first but it doesnt pull at 2k with the clutch held down. i feel like if it has a little more travel it would release just fine.
 
don't put that extended rod on it replace the clutch slave and master and make shure that the master is adjusted properly this should fix your problem. the extended rod can make the release arm come in contact with the pressure plate fingers.
 
Wow... Never heard of an ACT 1800.:confused: The extended slave cylinder rod is definitely more of a band-aid than a fix though.:notgood:
Get the pedal height and freeplay set correctly and that's usually half the battle.

I guess I should have added that it was something I read and not actually done myself. But my friend with a 1g awd had that problem with an ACT clutch and bought the extended rod and it fixed her problem. She didn't have any problems with it either. As when I had disengagement problems with my clutch I changed slave and master and made sure it was bled right, and when that didn't work I adjusted the pedal rod and fixed my problem. That's why I provided both options. The extended rod was simply a suggestion that he could do. To the OP if your replacing the slave and master that would be the first thing I would do before you bought the rod. As it is really a last resort.
 
well the slave is only a few weeks old and the pedal is adjusted all the way out. i'll replace the master before trying the rod but how can i check to make sure i'm not going to contact anything?
 
I actually had a similar issue when i put in an ACT 2600. I replaced the slave and the master cylinder and it was properly adjusted. Still no disengagement. My friend told me to get an extended rod from my slave cylinder. I did just that and it came out the right way. It's been disengageing just fine with no issues for over a year.
 
i had the same type of problem once and my clutch spring was coming out of the clutch cause of a small crack on the tabs that hold them in place and i was getting almost no movement out of the slave cause the spring was jammed between the clutch and flywheel.
 
well the slave is only a few weeks old and the pedal is adjusted all the way out. i'll replace the master before trying the rod but how can i check to make sure i'm not going to contact anything?

the master cylender is self adjusting you don't adjust it all the way out, if you did that is incorrect you adjust the rod to the point where you can push the slave cylender in by hand. while you are under there pull the boot back and i bet you will see that it is leaking.
 
And to add one more option a if a spring in your clutch disc comes loose it will bounce around between the disc and pressure plate not alowing it to disengage properly. It will also rattle some times
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top