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stage 5 clutch won't disengage

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92redeclipse

Probationary Member
12
0
Mar 23, 2011
frankfort, Illinois
new to the forum and quiet new to the dsm world. But no matter how much my car breaks i'm not willing to get rid of my 1g. Well my problem is i just put in a new stage 5 clutch unsprung masters clutch, new TOB and had my flywheel resurfaced. Just put the clutch in sunday night. Last night on my way home as i was shifting into 3rd. Not quickly as i abide by the 500 mile break in period. But anyway. As i let off the clutch going into 3rd my trans starts vibrating horribly. Not my engine because vibrations go with the speed of the trans not the motor. This is the weird part. Clutch has pressure. No air in the lines. No leaks.fluid is topped off and the slave is pushing. But i can feel in my clutch pedal when the pressure plate engages and disengages. Trans is good rebuilt. Just flushed with new redline fluid. The pedal is adjusted and i only have maybe 8th of an inch of play at the top of the pedal. Oh and the disc was installed correctly because the disc said flywheel side on it. I've got no clue with this thing anymore
 
Why did you put in a stage 5 clutch in a NT? Those also don't have break in periods.
 
i put a stage 5 in it because my stock clutch just went out and within the next month my buddy is selling me his whole stock turbo system with fmic. His 450 injectors, mbc, safc and 190 fuel pump for 400 bucks. I only plan 10 to 12 psi. But as this stage5 clutch holds 200 percent over stock i figure 10 to 12psi on a good tune will be at that 200 percent mark. So i figure why buy two clutches? Lol
 
Did you connect all the shifter cable clips in there? Also, did you shim the pivot ball?
 
i did not shim the pivot ball for the TOB fork because i read a thread saying not too. My main concern is why i have a terrible vibration. Luckily i start work at 6am and get home by 3 so there is plenty of time to rip it apart today plus it's payday so i have part money
 
For gst/gsx's shimming is a good thing. If the shift fork is pointing to the passanger side then it needs to be shimmed.
 
i don't have a turbo model. Mine is also a 1g so i don't know if the same rules apply. I was going to put a little weld on the end of my slave cylinder push rod since it's cheaper than buying an extended one. Also i'll take pics and post them of my automatic clutch bleeder i came up with. It.sa very simple concept that allows for one man clutch bleeding without even getting out of your drivers seat

ordered a new clutch master cylinder. I'll be picking that up when i get off work. Hopefully after this it will work. But i'm still stumped on the vibration. Gonna check the balance shaft belt as well even though it's new
 
just a heads up, it may not be the master, I changed every line, both slave and master, shimed the ball pulled the trans 6 times put in a longer slave, and come to find out it was the pedals...+ I trashed the trans in the process of driving around trying to figure it out
 
i know the pedals can strip out. when i bought my 1.8 i bought a beat to H 2.0l talon. but the motor was good just had blown ecu caps so it didnt run. but i put a new ecu in it and drove it but that cars pedal was stripped but grabbed about 3/4 way down. i looked at my master today and it was leaking a tiny bit but not enough to where i had to ever put fluid in it or notice that it was leaking. but i think as i drove it for the two days on a stronger clutch the that tiny less than a pin hole leak built up too much air. picking up the master cylinder tomorrow along with a new starter. hopefully this will last and hopefully my new stage 5 clutch didnt get screwed in the process. but i dont think it did but ill find out when i drive it tomorrow. ill keep an update and let everybody know how it goes. and i will also post the picture of my one man bleeder kit ive come up with when i bleed the clutch tomorrow. but even if my clutch got messed up clutch masters has a 30 day warranty on it no matter what happens
 
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