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Help! my clutch won't disengage

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Probationary Member
3
0
Jun 26, 2007
Sacramento, California
I just finished my clutch project where I put on an ACT lowest grade street disk and 11 lb fylwheel. Everything seemed to go together fine eventually. I replaced my slave cylinder and bled it as well. (hopefully enough, looks like fork is moved all the way and pedal comes back up) I also adjusted my clutch pedal stopper all the way out. Ive heard rumors that a longer rod is needed for some ACT applications but at this point i'm just confused. It's hard to mess up something in the tranny. If anyone has any ideas, things to check, or something I missed please let me know. It's a 1g 6 bolt just incase that might matter. Thanks a lot -Ryan
 
Did you replace the clutch fork and throwout bearing along with this new clutch & flywheel?

also, did you keep topping off the clutch resevoir while bleeding it, or is there a possibility there is some air in the line?
 
Well i replaced the release bearing but not the fork. The fork seemed to be in good condition. I've adjusted the pedal all the way out and even ghetto rigged myself an extended slave cylinder rod. After of course, I bled it. Even still there is no disengagement. At this point I think I'm going to have to pull the tranny. Thanks for the input, let me know if you think of anything else. The tranny comes out tommorrow.
 
Before you had your flywheel put in, did you have it resurfaced down to DSM spec? I know someone who put in a brand new flywheel (without resurfacing it) and clutch and the clutch would just slip like crazy. Maybe just a thought
 
So yesterday I pulled the tranny and everything looked fine. I'm just wondering if my fork or pivot ball are bad. Is there any way it's bad if they were still attached when I pulled out the tranny? The clip that holds the fork to the ball is kinda loose but it held it on the ball. The only other thing Iv'e thought about is the pedal adjustment. It was originally adjusted all the way in to the master cylinder, then I adjusted it to about half way and it still didn't work, just a low pedal. I readjusted it all the way back in but if anyone has any thoughts on that please let me know. Also, does anyone know anything special about how an ACT 2100 with ACT flywheel goes on that I might not know? Thanks
 
Do you have a welded clutch pedal assembly? I was having a similar problem after a ACT2600 install, and I checked everything. I ended up replacing the whole pedal assembly, becuase when I had mine welded it was out of posistion. just a thought.
 
If I am not mistaken, by your description youre experiancing the same ordeal I went through on a customers GST. He installed a 2100, bled the clutch, wouldnt disengage. Replaced that pivot ball and fork, clutch worked correctly. :thumb:
 
make shure u bleed the system perfect and keep toppin off the fluid any air bubble is goin to not let the clutch disengage also make shure the master isnt leakin on the firewall
 
Check clutch fork when I replaced clutch with 5 puck kevlar I had to adjust the clutch pedal rod. I adjusted to much and it bent the clutch fork slightly, Clutch fork looked okay on inspection but was still having problems trying to shift, reverse in particular. Called tech support on clutch and the guy told me that these types kevlar clutches just shifted hard and that it would break in and be better. A couple of days later the clutch fork snapped in two. Replaced clutch fork, carefully adjusted clutch pedal rod and bingo clutch shifted just fine and smooth never had a problem with shifting until 20k miles later when super kevlar clutch wore out. Lesson learned adjust carefully clutch pedal rod, and don't use Kevlar clutch for street car. The Kevlar is just to harsh for street, not such thing as trying to slip clutch on hill, it just grabs, also cv axles broke on track launch.

Telnut
 
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