clutch wont dissengage

[pitbull419]

i changed the clutch,pressure plate throw out bearing and slave cylinder in my 91 tsi awd
and now my clutch wont dissengage at all

the pedel returns back up all the way and holds pressure
with it started in nuetral i had somebody depress the clutch pedal all the way while i was under the car i pushed on the release fork to see if it would go any farther it wouldnt
any body have any ideas of whats wrong?

could the throwout bearing or the clip be backwards or not greased enough?
bad release fork and fulcrum ball?(i dont think its this)
flywheel wasnt surfaced?
clutch over/under tight?

any other ideas would be greatly appreciated
i have to get it fixed i miss my car its just sitting hear it pitiful
it gets washed everyother day tho
thanks in advance

 

[pitbull419]

any body have any ideas?

 

[Dream On]

So you say that the slave piston isn't moving when you push the pedal down? Where is the clutch fork positioned? It should be towards the driver's side of the car. Is there any play in your pedal assembly?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

i changed the clutch,pressure plate throw out bearing and slave cylinder in my 91 tsi awd
and now my clutch wont dissengage at all

the pedal returns back up all the way and holds pressure
with it started in nuetral i had somebody depress the clutch pedal all the way while i was under the car i pushed on the release fork to see if it would go any farther it wouldnt
any body have any ideas of whats wrong?

could the throwout bearing or the clip be backwards or not greased enough?
bad release fork and fulcrum ball?(i dont think its this)
flywheel wasnt surfaced?
clutch over/under tight?

any other ideas would be greatly appreciated
i have to get it fixed i miss my car its just sitting hear it pitiful
it gets washed everyother day tho
thanks in advance

There are only a few things that would cause this...

1) Bad slave/master cylinder. Look behind the carpet around the clutch pedal area, if the master is leaking you will see it against the firewall in this area. Pull the boot back on the slave and you'll be able to see if it's leaking.

2) Pedal adjustment... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm toward the bottom.

3) Broken fork...but you'd know it when it went on. The pivot ball would have to be worn down to a nub to not disengage at all.

4) You can actually put the disc on backward, I haven't done a clutch in several months, so someone else would have to chime in as to which way it goes....but I believe it's "hat out".

 

[daren_p]

formontoya is correct, check the master & slave for leaks, make sure the system is bleed properly, make sure fork/pivot ball geometry is correct, adjust clutch pedal & check clutch pedal assembly for any play. This link should help you out:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

 

[pitbull419]

there isnt any play in the pedel assembly
the slave and master are new
i have bleed the clutch a bunch of different times
how would i know if the realease fork was broke?
the slave master and fork move when the pedel is pressed but the clutch wont dissengage
i tried pushing the fork while the pedel was pressed to see if it would move more but it wouldnt so im guessing something inside is binding
so my guess im ganna have to take the tranny out
and find out what it is once its out
i hope you guys can understand all that
thanks for your input

 

[mad_trbo]

I just went through the same trouble shooting exercise myself. To end up with the tranny on the ground and the discovery of a popped spring. Not sure what caused it but the clutch itself was approaching 5 - 6 k mile mark.

Good luck.

 

[Injected]

Can either of you be more specific as to which clutch and pp you are using.

 

[mad_trbo]

Can either of you be more specific as to which clutch and pp you are using.

I was using an ACT Clutch and Flywheel.

I would love to know what the hot clutch plate is these days.


I am looking to hold about 450 crank horsepower

 

[Dream On]

I was having problems getting my car to disengage, and it turned out that the studs that I was using in my flywheel wouldn't let the pressure plate mate against it flush. I switched back to the stock bolts and it finally worked. You can't imagine how pissed I was to find out it was something that stupid after I had replaced everything and pulled the pedal assembly to weld it...

 

[Injected]

I would love to know what the hot clutch plate is these days.
I am looking to hold about 450 crank horsepower

Clutches hold torque, not power, but we can assume that you may see about 400 lb-ft. at that level.

Pretty much the usual suspects:

ACT 2600: I think they fixed the problems that people were having with the springs popping out, but it still puts a lot of pressure on the thrust bearing which makes it suspect for crankwalk. Great for GSX's and their launching techniques and their organic discs will last a long time. Also, there is a significant increase in pedal effort. So much so that some people will see their left leg get a lot stronger than their right. The 2100 is great for GST's and very slightly modified GSX's. It has less pedal effort and less thrust bearing pressure.

Centerforce Dual Friction 2500: These are great clutches if you have the patience to break it in properly. They have been known to be fairly picky about the break-in, but if done right, it will last a long time and hold quite a bit of power. These have a pedal pressure like the ACT 2100, but hold more like the 2600. Thrust bearing pressure is even less than the ACT 2100. This is a great clutch for those guys who, again, have the patience to break in the clutch properly and aren't looking to hold a million lb-ft.

Some other clutches have come out, but I'll let you look into them or anyone chime in with their experience.

Hope this is helpful to anyone who comes across this.

 

[daren_p]

If 1g's are the same as 2g's, there should be a rubber cover on the trans where the fork goes through. You can pull this cover to inspect the clutch fork & t/o bearing. Don't think you replaced the pivot ball & fork so have you checked it for proper geometry? (see the RRE link I gave you above). Don't think you mentioned it but have you adjusted the pedal yet?

 

[christiane]

I had this exact same problem with my 2g GSX. Turns out the problem was the fulcrum/ arm. I replaced the arm and ball. Then I shimmed the ball approximately 0.0625". This appeared to resolve my issues.