The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

clutch won´t engage. can´t shift at all, help me please!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Stainbox12

15+ Year Contributor
378
7
Jan 3, 2006
Panama, Central America
some weeks ago my engine was rebuilt, though after that, i felt like the rpm´s would raise fast as usual but the car wasn´t displacing, i tracked down the problem to a slipping clutch issue, i spoke with the mechanic who told me that it was slipping because the lengh of the actual rod on the slave cylinder (very large), i took it out about 3 days ago, without bleeding the entire system, and i cutted it to spec (3.5¨ aprox). Now the car won´t engage, kinda like the slave isn´t moving the rod completly, i have rebuild the slave and the master with no luck. i checked the clutch fork, and its in the middle towards the drivers side (which apparently is normal) i have bled the system countless times, and nothing changes, the clutch pedal is still very soft, like it had no pressure. i also tried ajusting the master cylinder rod, and it made the clutch come up higher, but the pedal still felt soft. whenever i have my friend press the clutch, i see that the fork would move only about half an inch, and obviously that´s not enough to make it engage into gears. i have tried multiple lengh rods, made by myself, but i don´t think thats the real fix for the problem. i even checked that the bore of the slave cylinder was correct whic for an eclipse GSX is 3/4 as far as i know (unless i got a wrong slave). i dont think my fork is bad nor i have to shim it, because 3 days ago, as i said, when i cutted the large rod (the one that came with the car) to stock spec, the clutch enganged, but very very low, and again with not much pressure. any input is greatly appreciated, i need help on this one guys. :thumb:
 
Same exact thing happened to me. It turned out to be my pedal assembly. I replaced the slave master, slave cylinder, and went as far as taking out the tranny 5 times. I finally just said screw it and swapped out the pedal assembly. As soon as I swapped it, BAM, engagement.
 
Yeah the pedal assembly sucks. I had disengagement problems after my clutch install also. I tried a SS clutch line, new slave, master, bleeding, adjusting the pedal, new clutch fork and pivot ball, and even welding the pedal assembly. Nothing seemed to make any difference. Turned out to be the studs I used in the pressure plate that were supplied with my longer flywheel bolts that I bought from FP. In case you're using them, definately take them out and switch back to the stock bolts. They wouldn't let the pressure plate sit flush against the flywheel at 20 ft.-lbs like they were supposed to, which is why it would never go into gear.
 
1. Press the clutch in and allow it to come back up by itself. If you can pull the pedal assembly up more by hand (doesn't have to be much, mine only had about 1/2" of play and caused all kind of trouble similar to yours) the pedal assembly is worn and needs to be removed and welded.

2. How did you bleed the clutch? Step by step please.
 
yea, it might be the clutch pedal assambly then, because i press the clutch down, its kinda soft and it becomes harder but to the end, and yes, i can lift it up with my hand about half an inch. for bleeding the system, i filled the system with dot3, then i made my friend press the clutch down all the way, and i opened the bleeder valve and then closed it for then making him lift the pedal with the hand, it threw liquid and air bubbles, i had bleeder valve connected to a hose and sumbmerged in a little can with fluid on it so it didn´t pick up any any air, i repeated the steps several times, and nothing. thanks for all the help, any other suggestions is greatly appreciated.
 
Stainbox12 said:
yea, it might be the clutch pedal assambly then, because i press the clutch down, its kinda soft and it becomes harder but to the end, and yes, i can lift it up with my hand about half an inch. for bleeding the system, i filled the system with dot3, then i made my friend press the clutch down all the way, and i opened the bleeder valve and then closed it for then making him lift the pedal with the hand, it threw liquid and air bubbles, i had bleeder valve connected to a hose and sumbmerged in a little can with fluid on it so it didn´t pick up any any air, i repeated the steps several times, and nothing. thanks for all the help, any other suggestions is greatly appreciated.
During bleeding, make sure you don't loosen the bleeder too far to allow fluid to come out of the valve threads, loosen it just enough for the slave to retract.
 
alright, i just finished taking out the pedal assambly. it was a real pain in the ass, im very tired. i checked it, and apparently it looks alright, the part that usually needs to be welded has a squared shape, i know for what i´ve read, that when its rounded its when is screwed, i also took out the little metal piece that connects to the master cylinder rod, and its not worn at all.

im desperate, i´ve done everything :cry:

Help me!!! :coy:
 
Definately weld it. Mine had play as well, but the hole was intact. If that doesn't work, I'd try shimming the pivot ball or buying a new clutch fork and ball. And as oldman said, how did you bleed it?
 
With the pedal out, step on the clutch then pull it back up, is the clutch pedal completely leveled with the brake pedal?
 
im sorry oldman, im not sure if i understood what you meant, because the pedal has no pressure, so it has a bunch of play back and forth. probably its because i took out the big spring? let me know please.
 
That's ok, reassemble the assembly as if you're ready to reinstall it. The clutch padel should be 100% leveled with the brake pedal. If not, you should be able to pull it up 1/2" more where you hear the spring snap into the correct position. If you don't weld the lever to the rod at this position, every time you step on the clutch, the pedal will only come back up to the old position. Hope I made it clear this time.

BTW my lever was also not rounded off so you shouldn't go by that only.
 
alright, thanks oldman, you are very helpful. i assambled the whole thing again, and both (brake and clutch) are leveled in the same position. the spring snaps back up and the clutch stays in a good position with no play at all. i dont think it would be the pedal assambly so i decided not to weld it however, the little piece that attaches to the master cylinder rod, has a lot of play, is this normal? i dont see any wear though. i was also thinking that i dont think is the fork or anything inside the trasmission because all this clutch softness problem developed while the car was off parked in the garage. i was thinking that it could be the slave that is not holding pressure, but i rebuilt it already and there are no leaks, could it be the spring inside? im about to give away this car :(
 
Reinstall the clutch assembly after you weld it, please make sure you don't weld it in the wrong position I have seen this done several times, bleed it again and keep in mind what I said about not turning the bleeder valve too far. We just did a local member's clutch system and he was getting the same issues as you, we re-bled again during day time and was able to see that we were turning the bleeder valve too far allowing air to re-enter the system through the threads. Also don't be affraid of using up an entire bottle of fluid, flash out the entire system, don't take any more chances this time. Good luck.
 
Dude, you went through all the trouble of taking out the pedal assembly and you aren't going to weld it? WTF You don't ever want to have to pull it again do you? I know I wouldn't want to. If you have the means to do it, I definately would reconsider.
 
What? I didn't even read that part carefully nor did I even consider the possibility of not welding it. Let me put it simply, any 1G clutch pedal assembly with a heavier than stock pressure plate will have to deal with welding soon or later. Even if you truly have no play which I doubt, unless the following statement you posted previously is untrue,
yea, it might be the clutch pedal assambly then, because i press the clutch down, its kinda soft and it becomes harder but to the end, and yes, i can lift it up with my hand about half an inch. for bleeding the system, i filled the system with dot3, then i made my friend press the clutch down all the way, and i opened the bleeder valve and then closed it for then making him lift the pedal with the hand, it threw liquid and air bubbles, i had bleeder valve connected to a hose and sumbmerged in a little can with fluid on it so it didn´t pick up any any air, i repeated the steps several times, and nothing. thanks for all the help, any other suggestions is greatly appreciated.
you would still want to weld it now or else it will have to be revisited again. Personally I would rather do a head swap than pulling and installing the assembly.
 
you are right, a head swap would be easier :D. i checked what you said, about the pedal. its completly leveled with the brake pedal, when i took it out it had the half inch play i said, but i unscrewed everything and screwed everything back in place, and the shaft play disappeared. i reassambled the pedal assambly without welding it, because it was fine for now. if it develops the mentioned problem later on, ill take it out again, i got no problems with it. Now, the clutch pedal is harder, but not enough still to move the clutch fork for engagement. im truly stuck. i will try bleeding one more time, and if that doesn´t help, i guess the transmission would need to come out. thanks for your help oldman, you are really helpful :thumb:
 
What I'm affraid of is that you pulled it so it snaped back to the correct position but as soon as you step on it, the play will be back until you pull it up again. In any case, you seem intelligent enough to make that call as you're the only one looking at it, at least your next trip will be slightly easier. :) Good luck.
 
its not the syncros (if that´s what you ment to say), i can tell for sure. i did a gravity bleed today, and it didn´t change anything. im afraid to pull the tranny out. i inspected the clutch fork today, and i can wiggle it with my hand towards the driver´s side, is this normal? also, whats the travel lengh of the fork? i need to know, just before i think of pulling the tranny out :(
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top