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Clutch Slave or Clutch Master cylinder ?

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cool_g_83 said:
Clutch Master Cylinder, but it wouldn't be a half bad idea to replace both as when one poops out on you, the other is sure to follow soon.



Thanks :thumb: . yeah just the holidays are kick my wallets a s s right now is there any place aside the dealer I might want to look at for the part ?
 
Check your local auto parts store (AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.).

The master is really the one that's more of a PITA. You can get at the slave at a later time rather easily if need be.

Yes, it's a pretty straight forward job. I haven't done one on a RS, but would assume it's pretty damn close to being the same.
 
I would not buy a master cylinder or slave from an auto part store. I bought one and it didnt work on the first install. thought I just couldnt bleed it right. I then put a OEM used one on and it worked great. Also I bought a slwve from Auto zone, it was so cheap and crappy that the rubber boot broke off in my hands as I pulled it from the box. They are crap, go with OEM.
 
Pulled from a quick internet search:

NAPA:

NAPA United Clutch Master Cylinder
Item#: UBP350086
Price: $98.99

AutoZone:

BRAKEWARE
Item #: 13087 3 MO WARRANTY
Price: $89.99

BECK/ARNLEY
Item#: 072-9107 3 MO WARRANTY
Price: $92.15

Advance Auto Parts:

Tru Torque
Item#: CM350086
Cylinder Assembly; 5/8" Bore
Lifetime Replacement Warranty
Price: $98.28

Beck/Arnley
Item#: 0729107
1 Year Limited Warranty
Price: $75.99

Raybestos
Item#: CMA350086
3 Month Limited Warranty
Price: $85.99

CONICELLI

OEM Mitsubishi
Item#: MB910562
Price: $74.97

Hope this helps!
 
if your clutch master is the same on a GS as the turbo cars here's a little tip.. don't bother with that annoying cotter pin that attached the fork to the clutch pedal, just unscrew the fork from the new master cylinder that's on the end of the rod. Mark where the fork is on the old rod (still inside the car) and unscrew it from the fork.. now match up that mark onto the new rod, and screw it in the same distance into the old fork (which is attached by the annoying cotter pin) you'll see what I mean when you get in there if you don't already know what it looks like.. it'll just save you some hassle.. especially if your cotter pin is bent right up like mine was.
 
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