The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Clutch pedal pressure problems...BLEEDING HELP!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

FourDoorSleeper

Probationary Member
11
0
Jul 17, 2005
Mesa, Arizona
I recently had a cracked bellhousing, (bolt backed out), well today I replaced the bellhousing and reinstalled the transmission. I accidently pushed in the clutch pedal w/out the slave bolted to the trans. I only pushed the pedal in about 1/4 of the way, but I believe it was enough to have caused air to get into the slave.

Anyways, the problem I am having is that I keep bleeding and bleeding and am getting nowhere. I've taken the car out for a drive and can make 1-2 shifts ok and then the clutch wont disenage, leading me to believe air is still in the lines(Inconsistent pedal pressure). the Inconsistent pedal pressure isnt consant, just every once in a while the pedal will change consistency.

As it sits now after many times bleeding the clutch has no pressure until about half way down the pedal stroke, and then will not fully disengage. Sometimes the pedal has a tendecy to get stuck at that half way position in the stroke on the way up. I have tried the two person bleed (Clutch in, open bleeder, close bleeder, clutch out). I have also tried to gravity bleed, all of this with no improvements.

The master cylinder pushrod is adjusted all the way out with only 2-3 threads left in. I really am juts getting fed up with this, please help!

Car has:
-New Slave cylinder, new Master Cylinder, ACT 2600, factory flywheel.

Thank you for help in advance!

-Nick
 
it might be the little metal pin that has to slide, my car did the same thing because my little pin was bent and screwed up, did you check this?
 
Can you please explain what you mean by "metal pin". Where are you talking? By the slave or clutch pedal, im unsure of where you mean?

Thank you,

-Nick
 
I have tried the two person bleed (Clutch in, open bleeder, close bleeder, clutch out).

By this it sounds like you are only pumping the clutch one time then opening bleeder. You need to have someone pump the clutch 10x or more and hold it to the floor then open the bleeder and wait till the fluid/air bubbles stop flowing out and then close it. The pedal will probably be stuck to the floor after this and you will need your assistant to pull it back up and repeat the process. Are you following this method? http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm
 
Are you guys attaching a hose to the bleeder and submerge the other end in freash fluid when bleeding?
 
I had the same problem turned out my slave cylinder had a leaky seal. Replaced it and everything was good. So I would suggest checking for leaks from the refill bottle all the way down to where the bleeder valve is and make sure you don't have air sneaking in anywhere.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top