Clutch pedal feels way to soft and has hard tine going in gear.

[MadrussianSVT]

That's pretty much the whole issue, my clutch pedal is way to soft and when fully pushed in won't go in a gear, it feels like in trying to force the shifter in a gear and while in trying to force it in, car seems to move forward a bit. Also if I would pump pedal few times it seems to work a bit batter. So is it air in the system, clutch cylinder need replacement, cables adjusted, leek?

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[black91awdturbo]

You sir need to replace your clutch master cylinder asap...

 

[boostdawd]

Try bleeding your system first then move onto replacing the cylinder. What kind of clutch do you have?

 

[black91awdturbo]

Its a closed system air does not just find its way in. The only way it would happen is one of the lines has a pin hole in it. If that is the case the fluid will be down, if not empty.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

That's pretty much the whole issue, my clutch pedal is way to soft and when fully pushed in won't go in a gear, it feels like in trying to force the shifter in a gear and while in trying to force it in, car seems to move forward a bit. Also if I would pump pedal few times it seems to work a bit batter. So is it air in the system, clutch cylinder need replacement, cables adjusted, leek?

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edit:
I would adjust the master cylinder for more throw.
Refer to rod adjustment
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/clutch/2g-clutchadjustment.jpg
If that helps I would leave it for a while to see how it goes. If it doesn't help, your master could also be going out. I've seen leaking master last for thousands of miles while masters with no leak are internally ruin. Do not keep adjusting it till your out of threads. It is like those brake quite spray. It's just a band aid, if your brakes are out, change it!
How long have you had your clutch?

 

[gusu]

Let me help out.

Step 1. Check to make sure your clutch is not dragging by putting your car in first on a LEVEL surface, then push in the clutch and take the RPMs to the redline if your car moves at all its clutch drag.

Step 2. Adjust your clutch according to jacks transmissions video. It was linked already by another user in this thread.

Step 3. Check for visable fluid loss in the clutch master. If there is you have a leak most likely.

Step 4. Check your clutch master and slave for leaking. Your clutch master should be checked for leaks inside the firewall under either the clutch pedal on a 2g or under the gas pedal hidden by a big ass spring on a 1g you will have to get on your back and look up to find them, you should also know where they are if you did the previous step.

Step 5. Bleed the clutch. Personally I use reverse bleeding. Buy a hand pump from a auto parts store, then attach the siphon end to your fluid (dot 3 or 4 brake fluid). The with your slave bleedr barely open attach the other end to your bleeder valve. Open your cap for your master and have a friend watch. You are going to be pumping fluid in while making sure to not get any bubbles in the line. Your fluid will lush up from the bottom filling the master, stop when full. Then with the hose still attached tighten your bleeder valve and remove the hose. After you put your cap back on your clutch should have a great feel to it.

Step you are f***ed. Drop the transmission as odds are it is the clutch.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

I was also going to add mention worn pressure plate/teeth.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

I was also going to add mention worn pressure plate/teeth.

Pressure plats, clutch, oem tob all new, resurfaced act flywheel, so should be no problem there.


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[MadrussianSVT]

Let me help out.

Step 1. Check to make sure your clutch is not dragging by putting your car in first on a LEVEL surface, then push in the clutch and take the RPMs to the redline if your car moves at all its clutch drag.

Step 2. Adjust your clutch according to jacks transmissions video. It was linked already by another user in this thread.

Step 3. Check for visable fluid loss in the clutch master. If there is you have a leak most likely.

Step 4. Check your clutch master and slave for leaking. Your clutch master should be checked for leaks inside the firewall under either the clutch pedal on a 2g or under the gas pedal hidden by a big ass spring on a 1g you will have to get on your back and look up to find them, you should also know where they are if you did the previous step.

Step 5. Bleed the clutch. Personally I use reverse bleeding. Buy a hand pump from a auto parts store, then attach the siphon end to your fluid (dot 3 or 4 brake fluid). The with your slave bleedr barely open attach the other end to your bleeder valve. Open your cap for your master and have a friend watch. You are going to be pumping fluid in while making sure to not get any bubbles in the line. Your fluid will lush up from the bottom filling the master, stop when full. Then with the hose still attached tighten your bleeder valve and remove the hose. After you put your cap back on your clutch should have a great feel to it.

Step you are f***ed. Drop the transmission as odds are it is the clutch.

I did put it in first gear, and while I crank, cars moves up my drive way pretty well. Here is another thing, I feel up clutch fluid tank, pump pedal few times and it works ok, after I drive for like less then two miles my pedal feels soft, tranny won't go in first or reverse, and fluid level down to the bottom. Slave cylinder?


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[moronthr33]

I would deff check you slave cly. Look inside the rubber boot if there any fluid then replace it and the properly bleed the system

 

[2GCruiser]

sounds like its the master cylinder. i would just replace it, they're not that expensive.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

I would deff check you slave cly. Look inside the rubber boot if there any fluid then replace it and the properly bleed the system

Yep, the boot is fool of brake fluid, I guess I Just have to change it then. How much dealer chargers for one?


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[sugarfree]

Please do yourself a favor and replace the clutch AND master. They wear out together over time and replacing one is like putting a fresh head on a 200k+ block, it's going to make the other one go out I don't know how many times i've seen people not even replace the master or slave when they do a clutch, it is a necessity! Remember also that just because you can't see fluid leaking doesn't mean it's not internally bypassing.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

Please do yourself a favor and replace the clutch AND master. They wear out together over time and replacing one is like putting a fresh head on a 200k+ block, it's going to make the other one go out I don't know how many times i've seen people not even replace the master or slave when they do a clutch, it is a necessity! Remember also that just because you can't see fluid leaking doesn't mean it's not internally bypassing.

So just to get it clear, master is the one on the firewall right above pedals, and slave is one in front of the tranny, right? Im 90% sure that slave is gone, and that's the one I need to change out. Master looks clean and free of any leaks.


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[KevinRR]

So just to get it clear, master is the one on the firewall right above pedals, and slave is one in front of the tranny, right

Yup your right the master on the fire wall and slave is on the tranny.

 

[casperfast]

i agree, replace them both. worth it.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

Found a replacement slave cylinder from advance autoparts for $27 after discount, will pick it tomorrow and replace it, hopefully it will fix my clutch issue


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[moronthr33]

it should fix the problem your having. i kinda had the same problem a few years back on a talon

 

[boosting_pwr]

That should fix it. I did mine when I replaced my clutch just to avoid messing with it later on.