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Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Dipped - AGAIN!

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GPTourer

20+ Year Contributor
906
3
Aug 29, 2002
Birmingham, Alabama
Okay, I've been reading clutch, master and slave cylinder threads all morning, and still not satisified with what I have found. My clutch pedal has the popping noise/feel that seems to afflict a lot of 2G's, even though I replaced the bushings under the dash, put in a SS clutch line and replaced the master and slave cylinder. That was just over a year ago, and on the way home from NOPI, my clutch pedal was slow to come up. I made it back in town and as soon as I got off the interstate the pedal went to the floor and stayed.

So after only a year I need another slave cylinder. I am doing both because I understand its best to replace them in pairs. I don't understand why the "new" parts would crap out so quickly. I am glad it isn't CW as was my first suspicion, but still. The car was getting harder and harder to put into first, and hard to get off the line smoothly.

Other pertinent information: ACT 2100, XACT flywheel, B&M short shifer at 50% reduction, Symborski.

I noticed Slowboy has a complete 2G clutch line between cylinders. I am also paying close attention to TRE's page on clutch adjustment. Any other ideas?
 
Also pull the restrictor in the master if you have'nt yet...

Its probably also partly the shock absorber looking rod in the assist spring but change and shim (if needed) the pivot ball first.
 
what is the restrictor i have had a similar problem and am curious what the restrictor is if you have a link.....
 
I read up on pulling the restrictor and found a couple of dissenting opinions on it so I left it alone. Plus it is in the slave not the master, no?

Anyway, the car feels much better now. The pedal itself is smooth, no pops or creaks, and the effort is a whole lot less, like stock - which is what a 2100 is supposed to feel like. Not the stiff, foot aching effort it used to take. Its almost like a totally different vehicle.
 
The accumulator is on the slave line.

There is also a restrictor in the master.
 
I've been having that popping feeling too but mine didn't happen until I installed my SS clutch line and new slave cylinder. Shouldn't these things help to hide that issue instead of bring it to light?
 
tighty said:
I've been having that popping feeling too but mine didn't happen until I installed my SS clutch line and new slave cylinder. Shouldn't these things help to hide that issue instead of bring it to light?

I thought so too. But I think once you have a higher load clutch and the SS line it actually makes it worse because the hydraulics don't have the leverage it needs to actuate the heavier clutch properly.
 
GPTourer said:
I thought so too. But I think once you have a higher load clutch and the SS line it actually makes it worse because the hydraulics don't have the leverage it needs to actuate the heavier clutch properly.

I could understand that if I put in a heavier load clutch but I didn't...it basically happened after I put in the SS line. I bled it about 50 times to. One thing I noticed after is that I can push the slave cylinder rod into the slave cylinder by hand, and that it comes out verrrrrryyyyy slowly. I didn't check it before so I dunno if that is normal or not...
 
GPTourer said:
I thought so too. But I think once you have a higher load clutch and the SS line it actually makes it worse because the hydraulics don't have the leverage it needs to actuate the heavier clutch properly.
Wait. What? The "leverage" is determined by the clutch pedal arm length, the master cylinder bore size, the slave cylinder bore size, and the throwout bearing lever length. The hydraulics in-between are hydraulics, and they won't change.
 
tighty said:
I could understand that if I put in a heavier load clutch but I didn't...it basically happened after I put in the SS line. I bled it about 50 times to. One thing I noticed after is that I can push the slave cylinder rod into the slave cylinder by hand, and that it comes out verrrrrryyyyy slowly. I didn't check it before so I dunno if that is normal or not...
Normal. And, the best way to bleed the clutch.
 
Defiant said:
Wait. What? The "leverage" is determined by the clutch pedal arm length, the master cylinder bore size, the slave cylinder bore size, and the throwout bearing lever length. The hydraulics in-between are hydraulics, and they won't change.

Right. I am *thinking* because there a breakdown in the mechanical parts, like the pivot ball and throwout arm, it put more pressure on the master and slave. They wore out prematurely on my car.
 
MNGSX said:
The accumulator dampened surges on the way back to the master too....

Get the restrictor out of the master and get back to us.. There is one under the banjo bolt...

I was tired.. The restrictor is on the slave.


Interstingly enough I had some master cylinder problems.. "Ghost pedal" First time on a 1996....

Carquest Part # M7386 is the clutch master cylinder rebuild kit. Comes with all parts that actually wear out.. Piston assembly, o ring for the slot head bolt that holds the piston in and actuates the relief valve, circlip, and outer boot...

It cost me $18

This is an important part of the RRE page... Even with a new ball/fork combo some clutch setups might need a bit of shimming anyway.. This picture the fork is where I like it.. A ways toward the drivers side of the centerline..


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
GPTourer said:
I noticed Slowboy has a complete 2G clutch line between cylinders. I am also paying close attention to TRE's page on clutch adjustment. Any other ideas?


The only thing I could *possibly* see this good for is AT to MT swaps. The regular line replaces the rubber line to reduce flex in the line. Replacing the hard line with *anything* that's not solid is going to have an adverse effect.
 
So a full ss clutch line would have an adverse effect rather than do any good? I'm going to be buying a new slave soon, it's been leaking but I've neglected it for the longest. Now it's starting to leak quite a bit of clutch fluid so it's time to replace the thing. My master cylinder I rebuilt a couple months ago, the boot was leaking and I didn't have money to replace it. So far, so good, no leaks from the master yet.

I figured since I'm going to replace the slave, I might as well replace the clutch line with a full ss one and get rid of that condenser thing.
 
You just need to replace from the slave to where the rubber hose bolts to the factory prebent hard line with the braided SS..

If you just want to eliminate the accumulator.. Unbolt the outlet fitting of the accumulator.

Cut off the accumulator from the bracket.. Remove the old fitting from where it attaches on the trans end of the rubber line.

Gently bend the line from the slave to meet the rubber lines end. Bolt it together.
 
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