clutch issues and trust bearing wearing down block

[Ozyeclipse]

Ok so I know there's plenty of clutch threads out there but I have an issue I just can't seem to figure out every time I search and view threads its always the same bleed adjust and search
But no actual thread about fixing this yet

I've got a 99 gst stock 7 bolt 147xxx miles new clutch at 122xxx miles
No ticks no weird noises no driving issues besides the clutch engagement feels very close to the floor I've read a lot of crank walk threads and plenty of searching but nothing answered about this

The symptom is that when pressing the clutch it feels fine but 3/4 of the way it just gets hard...
Very stiff and at this point is where I can shift smoothly and normally anything before that and its a struggle to get it into gear
Same goes for relising the clutch about 3/4 of the way(still pressed 3/4) it just feels like it jumps out and disengages right there and would instantly stall or jump

New master cylinder in and bleeding the clutch almost for 3 strait days now also bleeding the slave
And it seems to be getting better but still the same as described above

Could this be an issue from crankwalk it feels like the engagement point is so low to the ground maybe the trust bearing could be wearing out this a a bone stock 7 bolt btw

Could it be a bad tob a broken clutch fork or a bad pressure plate the car has been like that ever since I bought it so I don't know what could have had caused it

Has anyone else had this problem before if so how did u fix it thanks for replying and helping it is very much appreciated

 

[Cdc1221]

Doesnt sound like crankwalk. Sounds like maybe the pivot on the clutch fork is worn out

 

[Ozyeclipse]

I'm not sure if its aftermarket in my car or not but could this be an issue with any aftermarket clutch kit I've heard that the pivot bearing in the fork could be worn 2 like u said but how would I go about fixing this after taking my trans off

 

[Cdc1221]

Its not a bearing, its a ball, and im not real sure how you change it honestly

 

[estoyaqui30]

If its the pivot ball, you will remove the transmission first. The pivot ball screws into the transmission bell housing. It's really simple to change, the one thing is if you are pulling the trans, I would definitely replace the pivot ball, the clutch fork and throwout bearing. These are all inexpensive parts and it would really be a shame to do all of that labor and not start fresh.

Also, be really careful about adjusting the clutch master cylinder linkage rod! You can do a lot of damage if its adjusted too far out. I'm now suffering the cost of that.

Hope that helps

 

[Ozyeclipse]

Defenetly helps I see as how that would make my current problem
As for the pivot ball I don't know any vendors personally but do u guys know what would be the best place to get it + the fork I intend to add a new set + act 2100clutch soon

 

[Cdc1221]

Check out extremepsi. They carry lots of oem parts

 

[keithcfisher29]

STM also carries a lot of oem parts

 

[estoyaqui30]

I always get my OEM parts from JNZtuning.com very friendly, knowledgeable and good prices.

 

[Ozyeclipse]

Actually I watched jacks video on shimimg the pivot ball and it seems to be the same as
Exactly as what he described

Lol I wanted to do a quick fix for the moment so I cut in half a crush washer of a 6 bolt head bolt and with a lot of patience and time I managed to get it in on the
Pivot ball hahaha  ive been told its impossible by so many ppl today but somehow I did it and yes

My problem is now fixed clutch feels like New and pulls very hard
Except its a lil soft for my taste

Take in mind though the shiming is only temporary till I get a new act 2100
Thanks for the help and positive attitudes defenetly pointed me in the right direction