Clutch issue

[RedRex02]

Was going to work this morning and had a weird problem. I got in, pushed the cltuch in, started the car but as soon as I pressed it in, I knew there was something worng. The clutch seemed VERY soft and it did not go up fast at all. I have a ACT 2100 with an XACT flywheel. This was installed a year ago. Ever since then no problems. All of a sudden this pedal is crazy soft. Haven't beat on it for a while and it drove fine the day before. It sat outside all night bein about 25 degrees. Any ideas what to look for?
Jon
PS it barely engages going into gear. Feels as if it has no pressure.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

-Bleed the system. If problem persists, Replace the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder.

 

[RedRex02]

-Bleed the system. If problem persists, Replace the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder.

What do those usually cost? Anything else that it may be?
How can it get air in the system if it hasn't been messed with for the last year or so?

 

[brandonzero0]

same problem and i just didn't have any fluid in it then i got it bled at a shop and it works fine now i haev a 2100 clutch

 

[RedRex02]

-Bleed the system. If problem persists, Replace the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder.

I just looked and it's leaking inside my car where the clutch has a rod and goes into the firewall. Which part is that? Drips on the dead pedal...

 

[1993eclipseGS]

That is the clutch master cylinder. You can get a brand new one from advanced auto or any other parts store for around $50.00 I believe. If you have the extra money, You may also want to buy the slave cylinder and replace both at the same time. The reason being is usually when one goes out, The other is working harder and in time, Makes that one go out. They are both very easy to change.

When I get home from work, I will post you a link on how to locate and change each of the above. For now, Here is a link on how you will bleed the system once you install the new items.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60319

 

[RedRex02]

That is the clutch master cylinder. You can get a brand new one from advanced auto or any other parts store for around $50.00 I believe. If you have the extra money, You may also want to buy the slave cylinder and replace both at the same time. The reason being is usually when one goes out, The other is working harder and in time, Makes that one go out. They are both very easy to change.

When I get home from work, I will post you a link on how to locate and change each of the above. For now, Here is a link on how you will bleed the system once you install the new items.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60319

Thank you VERY MUCH! Do you know of any write ups on a how to on replacing the master/slave cylinder...?

And I just called advanced auto and they said for both would be 98.00! Good deal.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

These directions are on a 1g car, But they are generally the same concept.

slave cylinder - http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm

As for the master cylinder, I cannot find a link. It's very simple though. unbolt the two 12mm bolts from the master cylinder located under the hood(Where you would put fluid for your clutch system). Unbolt the 10mm screw in bolt that holds the actual skinny line to the master cylinder. Once you have unbolted it.

You need to get underneath your dash. You un-do the locking nut and then screw the rod out. You do not need to replace the piece that the rod screw into, Even though they will give you one with the master cylinder.. You basically need to stick your head through the firewall to see it. If you push your clutch pedal in while you are underneath the dash, You will see the rod i'm talking about.

Then go under the hood and just remove the master cylinder. Put the new one in place, Then go under the dash and put that rod back in and tighten down the locking nut. put the line back in under the hood and the two 12mm bolts back in place. After you are finished with the install, Bleed the system via the link I had previous posted in my last post.

Once you get everything done, Start the car and make sure your clutch pedal is grabbing at the right spot. If it is grabbing right off the floor, You need to go back under the dash, And adjust the rod with the locking nut. You need to turn it out towards the engine bay, A little adjustment makes a huge difference. So it may take alittle. If it is grabbing to high or making your clutch slip in higher gears, You need to adjust the rod inward. Just remember to tighten the locking nut!

If you have any questions while you do this, Just post them. I will reply the same day.

Here is a link for adjusting the clutch, And where the grabbing point is at:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/njdsm2/clutch.html

Here are all the symptoms that from cheapest to most expensive.

Cause Solution
Air or water in clutch hydraulic fluid Bleed clutch fluid and replace.
Master cylinder is leaking. Replace master cylinder.
Slave cylinder is leaking. Replace slave cylinder.
Clutch pedal rod is worn out. Replace rod.
Master cylinder pushrod is incorrectly adjusted. Readjust master cylinder rod.
Incorrect clutch pedal free play adjustment. Readjust clutch pedal free play.
Transmission is loose, resulting in movement when clutch is depressed. Tighten loose transmission bolt(s) by front engine mount.
Master cylinder rod too short for current clutch setup. Lengthen master cylinder rod.
Master cylinder worn out. Replace old master cylinder.
Slave cylinder worn out. Replace old slave cylinder.
Poor lubrication on clutch fork and/or pivot ball. Grease moving parts well.
Worn clutch fork pivot ball. Shim pivot with one or two 3/8" washers to regain missing travel.
Poor lubrication on pilot shaft or throwout bearing. Grease throwout bearing very well.
Worn or bent clutch release fork. Replace fork.
Worn clutch pivot ball. Replace ball.
Worn out or incorrectly installed clutch / flywheel. Replace clutch / flywheel with new clutch and flywheel machined to correct specifications.

Also, If you need pictures of anything, I can go out to my car and take them and come in and upload them for you.

 

[RedRex02]

These directions are on a 1g car, But they are generally the same concept.

slave cylinder - http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm

As for the master cylinder, I cannot find a link. It's very simple though. unbolt the two 12mm bolts from the master cylinder located under the hood(Where you would put fluid for your clutch system). Unbolt the 10mm screw in bolt that holds the actual skinny line to the master cylinder. Once you have unbolted it.

You need to get underneath your dash. You un-do the locking nut and then screw the rod out. You do not need to replace the piece that the rod screw into, Even though they will give you one with the master cylinder.. You basically need to stick your head through the firewall to see it. If you push your clutch pedal in while you are underneath the dash, You will see the rod i'm talking about.

Then go under the hood and just remove the master cylinder. Put the new one in place, Then go under the dash and put that rod back in and tighten down the locking nut. put the line back in under the hood and the two 12mm bolts back in place. After you are finished with the install, Bleed the system via the link I had previous posted in my last post.

Once you get everything done, Start the car and make sure your clutch pedal is grabbing at the right spot. If it is grabbing right off the floor, You need to go back under the dash, And adjust the rod with the locking nut. You need to turn it out towards the engine bay, A little adjustment makes a huge difference. So it may take alittle. If it is grabbing to high or making your clutch slip in higher gears, You need to adjust the rod inward. Just remember to tighten the locking nut!

If you have any questions while you do this, Just post them. I will reply the same day.

Here is a link for adjusting the clutch, And where the grabbing point is at:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/njdsm2/clutch.html

Here are all the symptoms that from cheapest to most expensive.

Cause Solution
Air or water in clutch hydraulic fluid Bleed clutch fluid and replace.
Master cylinder is leaking. Replace master cylinder.
Slave cylinder is leaking. Replace slave cylinder.
Clutch pedal rod is worn out. Replace rod.
Master cylinder pushrod is incorrectly adjusted. Readjust master cylinder rod.
Incorrect clutch pedal free play adjustment. Readjust clutch pedal free play.
Transmission is loose, resulting in movement when clutch is depressed. Tighten loose transmission bolt(s) by front engine mount.
Master cylinder rod too short for current clutch setup. Lengthen master cylinder rod.
Master cylinder worn out. Replace old master cylinder.
Slave cylinder worn out. Replace old slave cylinder.
Poor lubrication on clutch fork and/or pivot ball. Grease moving parts well.
Worn clutch fork pivot ball. Shim pivot with one or two 3/8" washers to regain missing travel.
Poor lubrication on pilot shaft or throwout bearing. Grease throwout bearing very well.
Worn or bent clutch release fork. Replace fork.
Worn clutch pivot ball. Replace ball.
Worn out or incorrectly installed clutch / flywheel. Replace clutch / flywheel with new clutch and flywheel machined to correct specifications.

Also, If you need pictures of anything, I can go out to my car and take them and come in and upload them for you.

Awsome help man!!! Thank you so much. I am still a lil scared to do this but I am going to order the parts Monday. Me and a biddy had to push the car home for almost a mile. We were kinda tired and noticed we need to get in shape, . I wish you lived near me to give a helping hand and slam a few beers in the process
Thanks!
Jon

 

[RedRex02]

Also, why would I see fluid leaking inside the car rather outside where the actual master cylinder is?

 

[1993eclipseGS]

If I lived close I would do it all. Once you get infront of the car with the new parts, You'll come to see it's not hard at all. Just follow the directions I gave you and keep them next to the car if you need to.
That rod where it is leaking from is the master cylinder rod, It comes down through the master cylinder and leaks out onto the carpet/inside firewall. Once you start to do everything, PM me on here and I will send you pictures and help with anything you might need, As long as i'm not at work(8am-5pm) I will be able to send you pictures if you need.

 

[RedRex02]

If I lived close I would do it all. Once you get infront of the car with the new parts, You'll come to see it's not hard at all. Just follow the directions I gave you and keep them next to the car if you need to.
That rod where it is leaking from is the master cylinder rod, It comes down through the master cylinder and leaks out onto the carpet/inside firewall. Once you start to do everything, PM me on here and I will send you pictures and help with anything you might need, As long as i'm not at work(8am-5pm) I will be able to send you pictures if you need.

Thank you!!!

 

[RedRex02]

Any by the way, since I will be doing this, should I replace the line with one of those stainless steel lines from the master to slave? I hear they make a difference. Is there a difference from slowboy's or Mach V's version? It's a difference of about 50 bucks...
Jon

 

[1993eclipseGS]

The SS line helps with the way the pedal will feel, Unlike the stock line it will not expand. It will also get that ''mushy'' feel the stock line creates, Out of there. Any SS line made for your year car will work. I believe when I purchased the line for one of my previous cars, It was no more then $25.00.

 

[RedRex02]

Update:
Well afetr pushing it home for about 30 minutes (clutch was engaged so I couldn't really get it started or move it safely) It is home and well. Over the weekend I ordered a new master/slave and SS clutch line. Should be installing everything Friday. Will keep those who are interested updated
Jon

 

[RedRex02]

Does this look like the right line? Got it from AMS...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I used a VHS to show the length.
Jon

 

[ludevtec93]

keep me updated on this..

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Does this look like the right line? Got it from AMS...

Yes, That is the correct line. Just remove the old one and replace it with the SS line. Don't forget to bleed everything when you're finished!

 

[will90Eclipse]

Wow this is a great thread

One question, In my car the pedal has to be pushed all the way to the floor, could this also be a bad master cylinder
Thanks

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Wow this is a great thread

One question, In my car the pedal has to be pushed all the way to the floor, could this also be a bad master cylinder
Thanks

That really depends. Does your pedal feel like your pushing in mud, As in.. Is it ''mushy'' feeling? If it is, You can try to bleed it, If that does not work, I would try as listed above.
Your pedal may just need adjusting, Or your actual pedal assembly may need to be welded if the ''rectangle'' whole is circled out. Push your clutch in, Then when you let it out, See if you can pull it up any more with your hand. If you can, You may need the assembly welded, Or you can buy a new one.

 

[will90Eclipse]

It does feel a little mushy, but where do you bleed the system???

 

[1993eclipseGS]

It does feel a little mushy, but where do you bleed the system???

This link will tell you how to bleed the clutch. The bleeder valve is on the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is located in the front of the tranny, Right next to the block. You will need someone to pump your clutch and hold it in, While you open the bleeder valve, Then tighten it, And repeat.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60319

 

[will90Eclipse]

Thanks for all the help I guess I have some bleeding to do

 

[RedRex02]

Well I am glad this is helping some guys out! Will be tackling my job Friday so I will keep everyone updated.
If I remember I will try and get some pics as well.
Jon

 

[RedRex02]

Well after about 4 hours of work, it is finally done. Granted it took longer than it should have, but that is due to the fact that everything was so new to me. Everything is done besides a few more adjustments on the rod of the master cylinder. That may take a lil more time but all in all, it was a success. Thankyou everyone for your help. Hopefully I will not be back with a problem for some time.
Thanks again!
Jon