Clutch Help

[TJCTalon]

Hey guys I need some clutch help.

I got what I was told a ACT 2600 pressure plate. I would like some help confirming this.

Also how is the condition of this PP? Is it usuable? Thanks guys

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[turbo4awd]

Cant tell if its a 2600 or not but its looks like someone got it hot quite a few times, Its most lickly still usable though.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Flywheels side looks useable to me. But the outside looks so beat up I meant paint wise. I have a pressure plate that went 20k miles and it didn't even look that beat up. Must of been taken in and out so many times.
I don't really like to take risk especially when it comes to trannies and clutches because the work is so intensive. I would say buy a new one. PEACE OF MIND IS PRICELESS.
But if money is a factor it does look usable to me!

 

[TJCTalon]

Yes money is a problem. Just seeing if I could still use this. I got it for practically free.

Also what clutch disc should I look into? Should it be ACT or are other disc's good?

I will hopefully have 350+ hp here soon and Im just looking for the right clutch disc. Any sugestions?

 

[my dreamt dsm]

I never really been in a 300hp plus car so my knowledge ends here cause I don't want to bend you in the wrong direction. From reading tons of info on here I heard that the south bend clutchs work pretty good. But I'm an ACT guys so my thoughts might be bias.

 

[TJCTalon]

hahaha I understand bud. You probably still have a better idea then me, this is my first clutch buy and install.

I know I want a sprung disc, as unsprung will be to harsh for a dd, and since Im a 7bolt, I want to treat my crank nice.

But thats all I know. I dont know the difference between a 6 puck or 4 puck or a street disc. I need something that wont slip, but wont chatter and harsh on my mellow.

Anyone else?

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Other members might disagree with me but from your mods list looks like a 6 puck with springs will do you okay. I don't have a 2600 plate I have the 2100 and it's holding fine for me.
Hope this helps. I base my clutch selection off this. Ever since I've gotten into cars I've only used ACT clutches. The other cltuches I have heard from my buddies first hand failures so I choose to stay away.

Jacks Transmissions LLC — DSM Clutch Selection

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Other members might disagree with me but from your mods list looks like a 6 puck with springs will do you okay. I don't have a 2600 plate I have the 2100 and it's holding fine for me.
Hope this helps. I base my clutch selection off this. Ever since I've gotten into cars I've only used ACT clutches. The other cltuches I have heard from my buddies first hand failures so I choose to stay away.

Jacks Transmissions LLC — DSM Clutch Selection

EDIT: I don't know why it's double posting... it happens when my page takes forever to load.

 

[OneBad2L]

http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi SBC Clutch Disks.html

I just picked up a clutch kit here from Tim, a few days ago. I'd say for your goals the first one on that page; TZ-series full face Kevlar would be what you want. Pair that with your 2600 pp and it will be extremely smooth and take you well beyond your power goals.

I wouldn't recommend any puck style disc for what you're looking for.

 

[Deuce_three]

Yea, that is the act 2600 plate. The Product # is stamped on the fingers : MB010X=ACT2600

 

[ReYnd]

Pressure plate looks usable. A 2600 isn't the easiest thing to be throwing at your crank, but hey. If it can't handle it... there's an excuse to upgrade! You should be fine though.

I have South Bend's TZ clutch (full face Kevlar disk) and it feels perfect. Its pressure plate is only slightly stiffer than stock, but can hold 375 lbs-ft. of torque according to Andy @ SBC. Have heard from several guys who have had success with the 2600+Kevlar combo.

 

[TJCTalon]

Thanks guys, that kevlar disc looks promising. I might go that route. Is there any other quality discs that are cheaper? 200 Bucks isnt in the budget right now.

Im throwing a 20g on here soon, so I know the stock clutch wont last long. Im suprised its holding up with the 14b.

 

[twicks69]

Well, if you want cheap and potentially chattery, do a solid hub Clutchnet organic street disk if you don't have money. It will be more forgiving being used with used parts, and will likely still wear unevenly but it is cheap and does the job. You can also run their 6-puck solid-hub disk. The problem with running a 6-puck be that it will shred the pressure plate and flywheel friction surfaces over time. Either way, I would recommend the Kevlar disk ONLY if you get the surface on the pressure plate checked for flatness and the flywheel resurfaced to a step height of 0.0610-0.612". Using a new clutch disk with kevlar material will require a flat clean surface to bed the friction material. If you are putting a new disk in with used parts you will likely cause improper break-in and uneven friction wear on the clutch disk and it will not last anywhere where it should.

In your circumstance that you need the absolute cheapest part possible, either a OEM organic disk or a Clutchnet solid hub street disk or 6-puck. You pay for quality though, so keep that in mind.

The ClutchNet solid-hub street disk is only $85.00, there is absolutely no way I can sell any SBC products even near that price. Here is a link to the disk: http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=596&cat=0&page=1

 

[TJCTalon]

Awesome great info.

I was going to get the flywheel resurfaced when I got a new clutch regardless. If the clutch surface isnt flat, can they resurface that too or is that a no no?

Also im confused whether the kevlar will eat away my flywheel surface? Solid means theirs no springs correct?

 

[twicks69]

The kevlar material is very very forgiving and will not destroy your friction surfaces. They have great wear-life and are very smooth to drive.

When referring to a solid-hub disk, I am referring to no springs; just a riveted-on solid hub.

With the pressure plate, you can machine it flat and resurface it, you just have to account for the material removed by increasing the step height to compensate for it. For example, lets say you needed to take 0.005" off the pressure plate to get it flat, then you need to add 0.005" to the flywheel step height number. In this case, 0.613-0.617" range would be what you want to use on the flywheel.

 

[TJCTalon]

And those solid hubs usually engage the roughest correct? Im thinking I still want a sprung disc for my dd.

Can they resurface my clutch surface if its not flat or is that not possible?

 

[ReYnd]

Sprung disks slightly dampen engagement, reducing drivetrain shock and clutch chatter. Engagement of a full-face unsprung disk will be nowhere near as rough as a sprung or unsprung 6- or 4-puck disk.

I don't know how much shock is associated with the power level you desire, but it should be noted that the springs can break and cause headaches. I've heard of it happening more frequently with ACT's products, though I believe they've since been redesigned. The Valeo disk that came on my car had five broken springs out of six, a piece of one fell between the flywheel and disk, causing very strange effects. I suspect is was abused greatly by the previous owner, but can't help but think it ties in with getting what you pay for, too.

For reference though, the South Bend/Exedy/ACT/many other hubs have four large springs versus the Valeo's six smaller ones. I'd trust them all more than this Korean hunk of junk that gave up the ghost trying to hold stock torque levels.