clutch adjustment help

[97awd-turbo]

Hi,
Okay, so I have followed the video on jackstransmission about how to properly adjust the master slave cylinder, and was successful once. I switched out the part that is bolted on to the clutch pedal and now I cannot adjust it perfect again. For some reason, I can still press down on the fork from underneath the car. The rod on the master does not seem like it's long enough and I run out of turns and during all this the fork can still be pressed....I can't find to get to the point where the fork is stiff and cannot be pressed in anymore? Help! Do I need to turn it counter clockwise and start going clockwise again? does that matter or should I just be able to play with it no matter where it is?

(The clutch does not drag when the rod is adjusted more in, but then I'm stuck with only a little thread left) If the clutch is not dragging am I set as long as its shifting, etc without problems?

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/402251-clutch-adjustment-issues.html


Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube

 

[97awd-turbo]

Ive watched the video a million times already . I just can't get the slave to be super stiff anymore again like how I did the first time. Clockwise and I run out of thread plus I can still push the slave. Counterclockwise and I only get an inch or so of clutch.... So I'm saying, as long as the clutch is not dragging in the test in 1st gear and ebrake down reving to high rpm to 7ish-redline, and car don't budge, then am I set? even though the rod is set almost all the way back with little thread left to play with? I watched Jafro's videos too and he said that if you only have 2 thread left then your doing it wrong???

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

I have a question, does the clevis pin need to be removed in order to adjust the free play/rod of master cylinder?

 

[pauleyman]

No you do not need to remove the clevis pin. And to the original post you are suppoed to be able to push the slave back into it's bore (push the fork as he says). That's the way is SUPPOSED to work. You should NOT adjust it to the point where you can't push it in anymore.

 

[lil corb]

Ive watched the video a million times already . I just can't get the slave to be super stiff anymore again like how I did the first time. Clockwise and I run out of thread plus I can still push the slave. Counterclockwise and I only get an inch or so of clutch.... So I'm saying, as long as the clutch is not dragging in the test in 1st gear and ebrake down reving to high rpm to 7ish-redline, and car don't budge, then am I set? even though the rod is set almost all the way back with little thread left to play with? I watched Jafro's videos too and he said that if you only have 2 thread left then your doing it wrong???

If this has not ever been resolve but it sounds like a bad master cylinder. I was having that problem on my 1G. Finally saw a little bit of leakage behind rubber boot. Replaced the Master cylinder and I now I am no where close to the end of the threads like before.

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

OK, thanks, now it got better and shifts better, and clutch doesnt seem to slip. Just 1 problem arose. Now it feels like the clutch line system needs to be bled. And engagement point is way lower, I'd say too low, closer to firewal, before it was right at the very top, not even 1 away from the top. Do I need to bleed it? Or is the engagement point still off? I don't remember where its supposed to engage, its been a long time.

 

[dkalfop]

That video jacks has for the adjustment has to have been done in the 80's because it's so blurry and no close ups of the adjustments so really can't do anything with it. It would help most if someone can make a video with close ups and step by step. Don't mean to knock Jacks but that video is crappy and I know it wasn't filmed in the 80's with VHS tape.