cleaning a really gross junkyard block

[Leitnin]

pulled a g4cs out of a 90 sonata from the junkyard but the cylinder walls have some really stubborn crud on them (probably a mix of oil. carbon and rust) that wont come off. Its not just surface crud really, its kinda built up and i wanna get it cleaned out before i disassemble it (really don't wanna turn the crank with stiff crud in there). it seems to soften slightly with tons of pb blaster but i don't really want to use 1000 cans to get it off. any thoughts?

can i use a scotchbright pad without messing up the cylinders and if so, what kind (red, blue, green, medium, coarce????)

any recommendations appreciated (i need to get this thing clean and disassembled so i can get the block checked soon. if its bad, i can exchange the block within 25 days.


thanks

 

[ShaggieRL]

take it to any machine shop wih a hot tank

 

[gixrman]

Castrol Super Clean also works good, but like above I would take it and get it hot tanked.

 

[Leitnin]

don't they usually remove the pistons etc before hot tanking?

is there anything wrong with taking the block with crank, rods and pistons and hot tanking it?

i figure any shop can handle hot tanking it without messing it up right, even a non-dsm specific shop right.

i hear oven cleaner works really well, but i don't want to mess anything up. (it says do not use on aluminum which i know the parts aren't, but still makes me think twice.

 

[SlowSpyder]

Disassemble the block before you hot tank anything and you do not hot tank aluminum parts. Hot tanking any aluminum parts will disslove in the solution and will contaminate the hot tank solution

 

[myblack98gst]

if the motor is in that bad of shaped inside the cumbustion chamber you NEEEEEEEEEEDDD to rebuild it completely before putting it in a car. take it to a machine shop have them hottank it and check the cylinders. they may have to be bored.

 

[Leitnin]

i understand about the aluminum. The block is down to:

block, crank, rods, pistons, and all the caps etc holding these together.

problem is, i can't tap the pistons out yet because of all the buildup on the cylinder walls (don't wanna fubar the cylinders more than they already are)

whats the best way to get that stuff off (its quite hard and crusty, and pb-blaster and castrol superclean only go so far)

can i s rub it with a sponge? a scotchbright pad? 0000 SYNTHETIC steel wool?

thanks

 

[CanadianTalon]

If PB blaster didn't work call your machine shop and see what anti seize they would use. Absolutely do not use anything abraisive like steel woll on the walls.

 

[D@nno]

If you are talking about the crap right at the top of the bore then you will need a ridge reamer. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts311.htm. Hope this helps.

 

[Bostedquest]

Uh, remove caps and crank and push pistons/rods out the bottom.
Take to have hot tanked and checked over/inspected.
Might cost about 100 bucks, but they will tell you what condition the block is in.
Weither or not WORTH rebuilding, CAN be rebuilt or what might need attention.

 

[Leitnin]

yeah, the piston won't clear going out the bottom, but thanks for the advice. I managed to get the ring past the bottom so it bent and then scratched the cylinder going all the way back up.

engines apart though, time to get it checked out. probably need another one because of that cylinder

 

[Bostedquest]

yeah, the piston won't clear going out the bottom, but thanks for the advice. I managed to get the ring past the bottom so it bent and then scratched the cylinder going all the way back up.

engines apart though, time to get it checked out. probably need another one because of that cylinder

Yup, sorry about that one piston that will not go out the bottom...