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bjbaxter

15+ Year Contributor
115
0
Mar 19, 2006
parkesburg, Pennsylvania
(98 GST.) Ok well I've read through a bunch of posts about this already but just can't seem to relate them to exaclty what is going on with mine. anyway i start my car up in the morning and it seems to run quite well. The idle holds strong and the car sounds mechanically good. After driving for a few minutes to where the engine starts warming up, it goes all down hill from there. Any time I engage the clutch or come to a stop, the cars idle goes way down and sometimes even just dies when I'm coming to a stop. I have not the slightest clue on what it could be. My BOV is recirculated and I, not even a week ago, replaced both coils, put in new MPI and fuel pump relays, put in a new fuel filter and fuel pump, and did a 1g CAS swap. This whole issue with bad idling and stalling is really starting to pi$$ me off. It happens a the worse possible times.(in traffic, making turns and crossing traffic, etc.) I'm looking for some serious help here. Anyone with some knowledge, please let me know, I want to get this fixed before something bad happens and I wind up being seriously hurt because of it. Thanks a million
 
it seems that when your car warms up and goes into closed loop it starts to mess up... how old are your o2's. do you have anyway of checking your fuel trims? have you checked for vacuum leaks, i assume you have. as far as the 1g CAS swap... im not sure whats all involved with that. if its just old one off and new one on, or is there some wiring you need to do? go over everything you replaced and make sure it was installed correctly...
 
The thing is, is that it was doing these kinds of things even before i replaced all of that stuff. I jus recently did all of that just to update everything. I just bought the car a couple months ago so i wasn't sure about those things so i just replaced them. I'm almost 100% sure that there are no leaks anywhere, I pretty much went over everything in the car after I bought it because it was giving me a bunch of problems. Anyone have any other solid ideas??:(
 
The thing is, is that it was doing these kinds of things even before i replaced all of that stuff. I jus recently did all of that just to update everything. I just bought the car a couple months ago so i wasn't sure about those things so i just replaced them. I'm almost 100% sure that there are no leaks anywhere, I pretty much went over everything in the car after I bought it because it was giving me a bunch of problems. Anyone have any other solid ideas??:(


A failing MAF sensor would do the exact same by injecting too much fuel and causing a bad idle.. Not to mention stalling when bringing the car to a halt.
Also check the wiring harness to the MAF, sometimes, it doesn't secure properly.. and check all the wires to see if there are any loose or corroded wires.
It really sounds like a MAF related problem.

If you have to drive before you get it figured out.. Try rolling off of the throttle very slowly.. and don't abruptly let off the pedal, you may be able to save the car from stalling when you come to a stop.
 
The first two things that come to my mind are a faulty water temp sensor for the ECU ( it's seperate from teh dash guage) but that would throw a CEL. The second thing would be that the timing didnt get set correctly when you put in the 1G CAS.
 
how exactly do you set the timing though??? thats probably one of the only things i have yet to do on a car. please let me know. thanks. also, any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated as well. thank you to the ones that have responded so far though
 
how exactly do you set the timing though??? thats probably one of the only things i have yet to do on a car. please let me know. thanks. also, any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated as well. thank you to the ones that have responded so far though

For a 97-99 car with the 1G CAS, you'll need DSMLink to ground the timing, a timing light.
hook up the timing light to you battery.. and the signal wire to the spark plug wire on the first cylinder.
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left..
start the car, let it warm up, and make sure it's running at 750 RPMs.

Have a friend shoot the timing light at the crank's harmonic balancer.
You advance or retard the position of the CAS, according to the timing light on the harmonic balancer.. and set it to 5*.

Tighten up the CAS, and make sure it stays on 5 degrees. :)
 
If you're on a stock ECU there's a plug you either ground or put power to in order to get the timing to stop fluctuating for you to set "base timing" Just search it on here. You'll find out how to do it properly.
 
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