Changing pads and rotors

[97GSTee]

I finally got my new brake pads...now i need to change my front rotors and pads. I've never done it before but i dont really want to take in to a shop, for one so i can save money, but most of all so that i can learn how to do it MYSELF....and thats why im here now haha...i need help on how to change my front brake pads and rotors. I know i need to bleed the brakes, but i also dont know how to do that...If anyone can explain and help thatd be awesome

 

[greddyturbo19]

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/pdfs/edub/90004107_a8_Brake Rotors.pdf

go to that link full instructions step by step to change your rotors.

 

[architechnik]

You won't need to bleed the brakes if you just detach the pivot points on the calipers and tie it with a heavy wire. Then you can just remove the mechanical part and leave the lines attached. I did it for the first time myself not long ago and it took about two hours for the front. After I spent about 1.5 hours on the driver's side, it took about 30mins for the passenger, then about 30 mins for both the rear. The learning curve was HUGE, each one taking about half the time of the one before.

 

[trunks]

x2 - leave the brake line on.

I bought a spreader from summit after struggling through my first brake change. I'd highly recommend getting one of these for the fronts:

Brake Pad Spreader Tools - summitracing.com

Other than that it's really not too bad.

 

[gota99gst]

I just replaced the brake pads and rotors on my 97 gst and I did not bleed them and they are fine. But like he said I used the spreader tool which helped a lot.

 

[knochgoon24]

x2 - leave the brake line on.

I bought a spreader from summit after struggling through my first brake change. I'd highly recommend getting one of these for the fronts:

Brake Pad Spreader Tools - summitracing.com

Other than that it's really not too bad.

Just use a c-clamp. It works just as good.

 

[architechnik]

I used a pretty big C-clamp and it worked really well. I forgot to do it at first and that was part of the reason the first one took so long.

While you have your calipers off, check for any rust in those pistons. It doesn't cause any problems really, but it would be a good idea to clean them out and spray with a bit of sealer oil to prevent too much from piling up.

Also, don't forget to pick up some grease and lube those sliders back up before reinstalling. If you can get a hold of one of those big plastic syringes they use to give pets medicine, it works well for getting a little grease under the boot.

 

[Booztit]

I used a pretty big C-clamp and it worked really well. I forgot to do it at first and that was part of the reason the first one took so long.

While you have your calipers off, check for any rust in those pistons. It doesn't cause any problems really, but it would be a good idea to clean them out and spray with a bit of sealer oil to prevent too much from piling up.
Also, don't forget to pick up some grease and lube those sliders back up before reinstalling. If you can get a hold of one of those big plastic syringes they use to give pets medicine, it works well for getting a little grease under the boot.

x2
My by back caliper did jammed once, on the front I guess it s more rare
it could also be a good time to paint those calipers (with high temp paint)

 

[PIMking]

I just use a screw driver while the old rotor and pad on to push the piston back. took me about 15 mins to do both sides.

 

[jumpfroggy]

I just use a screw driver while the old rotor and pad on to push the piston back. took me about 15 mins to do both sides.

It may be a horrible thing, but I use a pipe and angle it so I can force the piston back up. Never had a C clamp big enough, but I saw the piston and knew which way it had to be pushed, so I just get some leverage and push it. I think I rest the pipe on a screwdrive or wrench, and when I pull forward on the pipe it pushes the piston forward (in). Once it's far enough back, I can slip it on the new pads/rotors.

Hard to explain, especially w/o pics. It might be a horrible idea. Get that spreader tool mentioned, looks like it'd make this easy.

 

[badboyr6]

I changed the pads on my sisters 99 gs and I used a c clamp to push in the piston. And I guess there was so much pressure that it broke the brake reservoir cap in the engine bay. So does that mean I would have to take off the cap? My GST is in need of new brake pads, I was going to change them this week. Dos anyone have any tips? Thanks

 

[jumpfroggy]

I changed the pads on my sisters 99 gs and I used a c clamp to push in the piston. And I guess there was so much pressure that it broke the brake reservoir cap in the engine bay. So does that mean I would have to take off the cap? My GST is in need of new brake pads, I was going to change them this week. Dos anyone have any tips? Thanks

In some of the books I've read, you take off the brake fluid reservoir cap and slowly press in the piston. You have to make sure that you don't let the fluid overflow, but yes I think some cars you need to worry about that with. I didn't do that for the cars I've worked on and haven't had problems, but probably YMMV. I'd remove the cap just in case, and press in a little, check the fluid level, repeat. That way you wont spill brake fluid all over the paint (bad, I've heard).

 

[architechnik]

Yeah, you are supposed to have the cap off when you depress the calipers. It will have some fluid inside the lines that it needs to pull back. If your fluid was within the normal range prior to depressing and you only do one caliper at a time and pump the breaks after each one, then it should not overflow.

 

[fhudsonjr]

When pressing your pistons back in, you can also loosen the bleeder screws on the caliper just enough so that brake fluid flows out rather than have it overflow out of the reservoir.

Be sure to place newspaper on the floor and use an oil drain pan to catch the fluid that flows out.